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Kismuth
Tinkerer
Username: Kismuth
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 12, 2007 - 11:35 am: | 
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Hi, I would like to take the top off the canon ftb in order to clean some lint from the view finder. I understand though that a screw on the back is used to adjust the tension of the focal plane shutter. Is there anything I need to be aware of or especially carefull of when taking top off? And how do I go about adjusting the screw/shutter tension when replacing the top?
This is new to me and I would appreciate greatly any helpful information anyone could give me. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 117
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 12, 2007 - 01:49 pm: |
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Whoever gave you the info on the shutter tension adjust was talking rubbish! Top plate removal on FTb is very simple, just remember that there is an electrical lead to the hotshoe - therefore lift off carefully.
Just go down a few lines/entries below this, until you come to the Canon FTb QL counter reset entry. The second post on this item by Ben gives a detailed description of the top plate removal. you will also find similar in the archive.
The view finder lens and frame are removed by removing the screw at each end of the frame. This will let you clean the rear face of the prism and the inner surface of the view finder lens. |
Ben_hutcherson
Tinkerer
Username: Ben_hutcherson
Post Number: 25
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 12, 2007 - 05:38 pm: |
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Since there were a few things not mentioned in the earlier thread, here is how to do it in brief.
1. Open the back and stick a screwdriver in the rewind fork. Turn the rewind crank and it will unscrew.
2. Remove the pin faced screw on the advance lever. Once you remove this, you'll see another metal plate in the center of the advance lever shaft. This plate has two set screws that need to be loosened. The plate then unscrews the opposite direction as the pin-faced screw. The advance lever will lift off. Take note of the proper stacking of all of the washers and so forth.
3. Remove the battery cap and battery.
4. Set the shutter speed dial to 1000 and the ASA to 25. Remove the pin faced screw in the center of the shutter speed dial. Lift the shutter speed dial off. You will note that there is a nylon piece under the dial with four slots and a pin on the bottom of the dial which fits into one of these slots. Note which slot the pin was in, and mark it with a permanant parker. Don't remove the nylon piece, as you'll mess up the meter calibration.
5. Finally, remove the screws. They are located on either side of the eyepiece, one on the right hand side of the camera, and one above the lens mount.
6. The top should now lift right off. As Glenn mentioned, you'll need watch the three hotshoe wires. If you need to disconnect them, just note which one goes where.
Also, you may wish to clean the top surface of the focusing screen. This is where much of the dirt you see sharply in focus is located. To do this, you'll need to remove the metal bracket over the prism. The prism should then lift right off. I would suggest using only compressed air and at most a camel hair brush. While the top surface isn't as delicate as the bottom surface, it can still be damaged. Also, watch the meter needle, which will be on the left with the prism removed.
One last thing. You may find it easier to work on with the back closed. If you shut the back, you can easily open it again by removing the bottom cover(three screws-lifts right off) and pressing the tab which is on the latch end. The back will pop right open. |
Kismuth
Tinkerer
Username: Kismuth
Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 12, 2007 - 08:06 pm: |
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Thanks so much! |
Krp
Tinkerer
Username: Krp
Post Number: 20
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 12, 2007 - 08:21 pm: |
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I recommend not using a screwdriver to hold the rewind fork, especially the Canons. A good set of duck billed pliers or smoothed faced ones to hold both forks on the flat sides works better. I have personally snapped a fork or two while removing a stubborn knob in the past. |
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