Who are we?  Featured Cameras  Articles  Instruction Manuals  Repair Manuals  The Classic Camera Repair Forum  Books  View/Sign Guestbook

Pad of death in Yashica MG-1 Log in | Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Classic Camera Repair » Archives-2007 » Pad of death in Yashica MG-1 « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Camera_crazy
Tinkerer
Username: Camera_crazy

Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Saturday, March 24, 2007 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi,
I got a Yashica MG-1 camera from e-bay. It is similar to Electro.
The problem with my camera is, when it is set in Auto mode, the shutter closes after 5 seconds only. When in flash mode, it seems to close at the default 1/30 seconds. When the batterry is removed, it again closes at the default speed.
I thought the problem could be with the light sensor, but when the film advance lever is cocked a couple of times fast, the shutter speed seems to work normally based on the light -so this makes sure the sensor is still working.
I was trying to see if the problem is because of the Pad of death, but the construction seems to be different compared to the electro, and I could not locate any pad at all. Besides, the lens is fixed on a plate the whole plate is fixed to the body of the camera so removing this is also not easy. I think it is quiete simple, but do not know what to do. Seems something mechanical is stuck somewhere.
Thanks for helping.
With regards,
Raja
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Howpow
Tinkerer
Username: Howpow

Post Number: 13
Registered: 07-2006

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Saturday, March 24, 2007 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Raja. The MG1 has the same Pad as the electro. If you are "NOT" hearing the famous "clunk" as you wind the film advance, you have a "Pad of Death" problem. You should hear the cluck about 10 to 15 degrees into the wind stroke. If the clunk is very obvious then the problem is probably something other that the pad.
Good luck
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Camera_crazy
Tinkerer
Username: Camera_crazy

Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2007 - 03:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi,
Thanks for your information. I dont hear the clunk. When I opened the camera, there was no pad either, so I was assuming the mechanism of MG-1 is different.
One problem I am facing with MG-1 is, the front plate is different and does not come off when the screws are removed. There are linkages connecting the viewfinder to the lens mechanism and front plate. Can you please let me know where exactly the pad of death fits in? I would like to try without removing the entire front plate.
Thanks and regards,
Raja
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Camera_crazy
Tinkerer
Username: Camera_crazy

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2007 - 04:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am getting some idea now after looking at all the information in this website. I will work on it today.
Thanks and regards,
Raja
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Greyhoundman
Tinkerer
Username: Greyhoundman

Post Number: 14
Registered: 09-2006

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, March 26, 2007 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You have to remove the whole plate. On the meter top there are two screws, take them out. Peel back leatherette, and remove four screws. Be prepared to unsolder a few wires. The POD is in the exact same place as a GSN or GT.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Camera_crazy
Tinkerer
Username: Camera_crazy

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, March 26, 2007 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi,
I was able to remove the front plate.
I was able to successfully locate the pad of death. Its white in color and is still intact.
Pressing the shutter release also depresses the shaft all way down and I can see the sliding contacts open and close the stationary contact.
But I was too anxious and applied some WD40 oil, which got entry into the lens assembly and I can see some oil on the shutter too. I think I need to open the shutter assemble and clean them ultrasonically.

But I still do not understand the flow of motion between the cranking mechanism and the switches and the noise during cranking. All I can see is, the cranking mechanism just cocks the shutter. Am I missing some component inside to transfer the motion to the shaft containing the pad of death?

Now that the oil is on the shutter, is it worth attempting to repair?

Thanks and regards,
Raja
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Greyhoundman
Tinkerer
Username: Greyhoundman

Post Number: 15
Registered: 09-2006

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, March 26, 2007 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If the POD is white it is going bad. It will crumble when you least expect it.
NEVER use WD40 on a camera!

You can clean the shutter blades with lighter fluid. Use Q-tips and just keep cleaning till no oil shows when dry.

The POD is to properly position the switch fingers in a proper starting spot.

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration