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Aka
Tinkerer
Username: Aka

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2007 - 07:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi,
does anybody know what camera has a gear to substitute the rewind plastic gear of the Rollei 35 ? See pic. stolen from the forum. I guess this is one of the weakest points of the camera. Thanks.Gear needed = arrow
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Reiner
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Username: Reiner

Post Number: 48
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2007 - 01:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello

I am afraid and I am quite shure that there is no other camera that contains a part that might replace this plastic gear. This was a Rollei made part. The early Germany made 35's had a metall part instead which was much more durable. Interestingly the later Singapore made models had the metal gear as well. When Rollei moved the production to Singapore they also streamlined the costs. The plastic wheel was cheaper as the original metall wheel. After a lot of trouble and reclamations they used the original metall gear again.

Sometimes such a metall gear set (wheel and spring) buys on e**y as original spare part. (unsused).
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Aka
Tinkerer
Username: Aka

Post Number: 4
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2007 - 04:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi,
thanks for response. I myself inquired the local repair shop and got the answer that the gear is specific and they didn't remember any similar camera part.
I have now 2 options: repair the gear or get a new one. The *Bay I'm watching occasionaly for a spare. Simultaneousley I've attempted to repair. The epoxy did not suite here. How it is going with repair job I'll post when I'll have results.
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Rollee35
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Username: Rollee35

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2007

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Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2007 - 06:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Try this:

http://rolleirepairs.com/
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 435
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2007 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It's a long shot, but you might find something usable at a place like this:

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=207
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 218
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, November 16, 2007 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Any self respecting model engineer or restorer of clocks, will be able to produce a brass gear that will do the job. The tooth form does not even need to be very accurate in this instance, a slitting saw of suitable thickness could be ground to give the tooth form.
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Aka
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Username: Aka

Post Number: 5
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Monday, February 04, 2008 - 01:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for everybody, problem solved. Now I'm running 3rd film through and everything seems ok. The gear is far more complicated not straight flat toothed disc, those who have seen it know what I mean. To make a new one like that could cost you half the cam and I didn't find someone to make it. For DIY enthusiasts here's my solution. As I mentioned earlier, no glue suited here to withstand the forces of the lever. So I drilled 5mm depth 1mm diam. holes on the teeth that were badly worn and glued suitable diameter brass wires inside the holes, then using file adjusted tops of protruding wires to be exactly like other teeth. And here you go. The biggest problem was to drill exactly on the tooth and parallely to the gear surface. Believe me, the plastic gear is wearproof but soft that's why it was a problem to drill.

I've almost stripped the cam completely. It did not wind film, lense did not stand straight, aperture did not move and exposure timing was absolute nonsense. This was my first attempt to repair a cam and I started not bad :-).

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