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Chey
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Username: Chey

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 07:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi—

I have a Sears Tower Automatic Remote 500 (model no. 9888) 35 mm slide projector. This projector uses the forty capacity rectangular slide tray. It is about forty years old but is in excellent condition, except-for the following two problems: (1) when using the remote or depressing the single slide button, the Transport Arm (the arm that pushes the slide into the projector will not push the slide). This is an intermittent problem and looks and sounds like the arm is binding somewhere. Two to three slides will load normally and then it “binds” up and won’t push the slide in. I can load the slide by using the Manual Operating Dial (the large knob on the front of the projector). (2) The focus feature will not move the projection lens, either manually or remotely. I have tired to see how to dissemble the projector to see inside what may be causing the problems. I can’t figure out how to remove the upper case to see inside. I do not have a diagram that would show the various parts of the projector and how they are assembled. The projector works great when it works. I can obviously focus manually and advance the tray manually, but I would rather correct the problems.
Any assistance in fixing the projector would be greatly appreciated. I believe if I could dissemble it and open it with the inside exposed, I could see what is happening. What ever suggestions or recommendations you have to offer, would be greatly appreciated.

BOB
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Dgillette4
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Username: Dgillette4

Post Number: 103
Registered: 04-2007

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Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

HI Bob: There are many ;places of concern but first check that the lubricant on the gears is not congealed. The more obvious are dogeared slides causing extra drag on the transport. You didn't say what type of tray it uses, mine uses sawyers or generic trays. Most projectors have recessed screws on the bottom that have to come out. Some sears might use argus trays that are spring loaded, check to see if the tray is ok. As for the remote focus this can be the same situation of congealed grease. One other thing if the focus motor is dc there may be filter caps that are dried out. Another problem with remotes is the cable can break, usually near the end or near the controller. Don
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Chey
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Username: Chey

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2007 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Don
Thank you for your prompt reply.
The trays are Sears- that is the only designation on them. They look good and all of the plastic gears look good. I finally got the bottom off –it has no screws only tension snap brackets. I have cleaned out everything, although there was very little lint and grease, etc. The inside looks like some Rube Goldberg device, lots of gears, levers and springs. The transport arm retracts to the correct position- but then something seems to bind and the belt slips just as the cycle is ending. The belt that turns all of this slips on the small spindle because there is either not enough traction, not enough tension ( belt is too loose because of age- over 35 years)- or something is binding. I can “help” the belt by applying pressure in the open space between the two rollers which tightens it up and eliminates the slippage and the cycle completes. I called Sears about a new belt. They said the model # I gave them #9888 brings up a stove. They also said due to the age, the numbering scheme has been reworked. I would like to try a new belt- I don’t want to put a lot of money into this because of its age. It is a challenge to get it work. Another idea I have is to wrap blue painters tape around the small spindle which should increase the tension on the belt. I don’t know how permanent that would be. The small shaft that comes from the motor has groves in the vertical position (around it) on the shaft, which doesn’t help to give traction between that and the belt because the belt has groves that are in the same direction as those on the shaft Oh yes, I freed up the shaft that drives the focus and that works great-now.
Any ideas, suggestions or help in finding a belt would be appreciated. The belt is 2-3 inches long and about 5/16 wide. –Obviously all dimensions are very critical.

Thank you again for you interest and hopefully hear from you..


BOB
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Rlc
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Username: Rlc

Post Number: 26
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2007 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Bob. Have you considered making a small spring loaded idler to bear against the outside of the belt? I can imagine using a clothes pin which can be adjusted or you may explore the inside of an old video tape cassette to see if there is a suitable roller to provide idler tension on the belt.
I'm just free wheeling and trying to imagine such a device but have had no experience with your particular projector.
I gave up on Sears many years ago due to the fact that they obsolete many of their appliances and often can not not supply parts for their products.
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 209
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2007 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

No matter what you do, get rid of the belt. It will have hardened up considerably over the years, thus it is completely useless. Get yourself a selection of ordinary rubber O rings of approx correct length dimension - the diameter should be of sufficient width to stop unnecessary stretching when running. You will find that placing one or two on the rollers/spindle, will get the machine working. With a ring that gives the correct tension, you will find that one ring will probably work. It is only on rare occasions that I have needed to use two rings.
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Dgillette4
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Username: Dgillette4

Post Number: 104
Registered: 04-2007

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Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2007 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The O-ring belt idea is good, I have used them and they are available in many sizes. Forgot about belts, they have to be replaced. I will see if Zatco is still in business they are in michigan and made o-rings for underwater equipment,they made o-rings tdo your specs. It wouldn't hurt to lube all pivots. Don
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Vidjfd
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Username: Vidjfd

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2008

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Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2008 - 02:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi, new to the forum, realize this was discussed in October 29, 2007, but it caught my eye as I likewise have a Sears 500 slide projector and is was working well untill it was left in boxes after we moved. I read all the discussion and conclude that it was worth a shot at repairing myself due to the age of the projector. I am an aerospace engineer retired and I am embarassed to say that the disassemble of the top and bottom of the case leaves me guessing. I can see the belt through a bottom door and it lookes ok but the lubrication thought jumps to my attention if I could only get the case apart.

Hope I hear from somebody

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