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Impman71
Tinkerer
Username: Impman71

Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2007

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Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 07:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi,
Having managed to get the top of my FC-1, I now have a few other questions!
I have 2 FC1's one was my very first auto SLR I have had for years, which about 3 years ago I destroyed the ground glass screen in, by rubbing what I thought was a bit of crud off, but was actually a mark which I have made much worse - unuseable, I could still kick myself now, should have known better!
I have also inherited my step-fathers one which has a good screen & is much better cosmetically. The problem with this one is the meter is permanently on when batteries are in - killing them in a very short time.
My question is is the meter problem permanently on going to be a simple shutter button issue, or am I better of trying to extract the ground glass out of this one & putting it in my one?
Thanks in advance for any advice,
Colin.
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Erirah
Tinkerer
Username: Erirah

Post Number: 5
Registered: 08-2006

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Posted on Saturday, February 02, 2008 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I wouldn't be surprised if the problem lies within the release/shutter speed unit, although I haven't had this problem myself. My suggestion is to start with the swith(es). Swapping the release/speed unit between cameras requires less disassembly and no disassembly of parts that affect focusing accuracy.

Here's a picture of the release/speed combo and its wiring:

Konica FC-1 release wiring

There are two switches, called S1 and S2. S1 turns metering on, S2 is the shutter release switch. Both do their job by grounding inputs on the controller IC.

First check the voltage at S1 (white wire) relative to ground (black wire). It should normally be 5-6V, dropping to 0V when pressing S1. If it's always 0V, then look for a short to ground somewhere.

Next, unsolder the white (S1) and green (S2) wires. You can now check switch operation. They should normally be open and short to ground only when pressed. There should be 5-6V on the disconnected wires and the viewfinder LEDs should turn off.

If the short is not in the release/speed combo, then it could be e.g. a wire strand in the wrong place. Visual inspection and careful cleaning of soldering points etc might help. Note that the release signals are also present in the remote control socket.

HTH
Erik
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Impman71
Tinkerer
Username: Impman71

Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2007

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Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for that advice Erik, when I get a chance I shall have another look.
Sorry it's taken so long to thank you, I haven't been on line for a little while.
Cheers,
Colin

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