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Dranav
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Username: Dranav

Post Number: 9
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've read that it's possible before, but never found such elaborate description of procedure from someone that actually done it like here in RFF by member dmr:
https://kyp.hauslendale.com/forums/showpost.php?p=390669&postcount=17
Check the rest of the post too. It's well worth it if you plan to do it for your QL17, as I do.

I'd like to hear other experts opinions and tips about procedure and any hidden traps - I've read that QL17 has some...

Regards,
Drazen
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 267
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 03:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

My only comment would be - why bother? The only piece of common sense in the post was the meter sensitivity check, at ASA 800. Having proved the meter - all that needs to be done is set the camera to manual and halve the ASA 800 exposure data, when using ASA 1600 film stock. In fact you can use any film rated above ASA 800, as long as you factor in the correct reduction on the indicated shutter speed or aperture value.

I would never use the auto EE system on this type of camera under low light conditions. The manual setting always allows one to 'tweak' the exposure, to ensure the main subject in the frame is exposed correctly.
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 506
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 04:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I think Glenn has a point. I would not load 1600 film unless I knew for certain that I would be shooting in light too low to use something like 400 that would give better quality results and still be usable if I happen to go outdoors before I've shot the roll.... and if that is the case, the sensitivity of the meter may well not be adequate to function in the light levels that I'm planning for. If your meter craps out, so do your pictures, recalibration or no.

Having said that, it can be done if you want to do it. I don't think I've ever loaded a roll of 1600 film in my life, so I may see this as a less important capability than some folks do.
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Donnie_strickland
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Username: Donnie_strickland

Post Number: 41
Registered: 09-2006

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Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 05:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Fun, but it just seems like a whole lot of bother for very little utility. On the (very) few occasions I've used 1600 speed film in a camera which had no 1600 setting, I used my Sekonic L-208 shoe-mount meter and shoot in manual mode.
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Dranav
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Username: Dranav

Post Number: 10
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 06:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I was having second thoughts about this modification and you guys have reasoned me. Thanks.

Rick, you've nailed it. It's true - one should never load 1600 ASA if he isn't 100% certain that he'll shoot whole roll in very low light conditions. And these occasions are so rare that manual calculation won't be problem at all, even prefered. Another thing that bothered me with this mod is that camera wouldn't do what it says on the dialers, but I'm done with it now, set my mind.

I plan to use Canonet's automatic only here and there, when there won't be time to read light meter and set aperture manually (street) so it isn't all that important. For other occassions separate light meter will probably be in my pocket anyway.

I still plan to check meter accuracy and will very probably need to recalibrate meter from mercury's 1,35 to silver-oxide's 1,55 volts that I plan to use. And from my limited (you can read this: zero) experience I still think that RFF post is the most elaborate description of the procedure.

Regards,
Drazen
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Charlie
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Username: Charlie

Post Number: 132
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 07:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A #675 hearing aid battery is 1.4 volts, a lot closer than the 1.55 battery you plan to use (and less than $! each). I have used them in Canonet QL1.7GIII's and Canonet 28's.
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Dranav
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Username: Dranav

Post Number: 11
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Charlie, I know, but it lasts short compared to silver-oxide.

Regards,
Drazen
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 507
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 08:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

if you compare the life difference against the cost difference, the silver cells aren't that much of a benefit. but suit yourself.
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Dranav
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Username: Dranav

Post Number: 12
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It's not about cost, but convenience.

Regards,
Drazen
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 508
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 04:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

ok, whatever.

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