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Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 12:33 am: | 
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So I just had some 1oo ASA developed today and to my amazement this happened. What caused it and is 100 speed the right stuff for night photography???
form here on out the green light just gets bigger and bigger it looks almost like a plume of smoke. |
Lucas
Tinkerer
Username: Lucas
Post Number: 75
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 01:34 am: |
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I use 100 asa all the time for night shots. This looks a lot like flare to me. Did you use a lense hood? even at night with the long exposure times a hood is helpfull to avoid reflections. |
Nickm758
Tinkerer
Username: Nickm758
Post Number: 19
Registered: 02-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 05:29 am: |
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It looks like a double exposure: look at the top right. The flame looking shape might be a light leak. You didn't say what camera you used. |
Lucas
Tinkerer
Username: Lucas
Post Number: 76
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 10:04 am: |
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When I do night photos I tell the lab and they hand me back my film developed but not cut. This looks like an example of the machine getting confused because it cannot see where the frames stop and start so your film gets cut whereever, even right through an exposure. I cut the film myself on a slide cutter.
I have had all kind of funky light effects in my photos. The lense hood helped a lot and by squinting you can determin what lights are brighter than the average and avoid burn out of a single lightsource or flare in the exposures. |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 638
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 08:14 pm: |
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i think it's the kirlian aura of the woman who committed suicide in that upstairs room in 1817. |
Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 5
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 09:23 pm: |
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I used a zeiss Ikon Contaflex Supper and I was not using a lens hood. that streak just expands throughout the rest of the pictures. It starts with the first shot but ends after 5 photos. Could it have possibly been bad film?? And secondly would anyone say with out a doubt that this is not light lead through the body of the camera?? |
Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 09:25 pm: |
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and one other quick question from all of your experience what would be the best exposure time for 100 asa at night?? I want to try to capture a light house we have here in my town. |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 89
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 09:50 pm: |
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i'm guessing light leak, those will show up on multiple pictures with a similar appearance. funky shape, though.
I wonder how it got the shape... it's very different from what I had when I got a leak.
Actually... I kinda like that effect... unlike when my F-1 leaked, that ruined a few good shots. |
Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 7
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 11:48 pm: |
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would it help if I posted more of the photos that were affected?? Like I said it only happened to the first 5 out 10 photos |
Lucas
Tinkerer
Username: Lucas
Post Number: 77
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 12:33 am: |
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If it goes from one frame over to the other it is a light leak. Could also be the film canister leaking, the processor doing sloppy work, or the camera back not being light tight.
There is no one best exposure time for photos at night, you need to experiment. As a start I did a series at F8 for 8seconds, this gives you usable pictures you can improve on. |
Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 8
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 12:42 pm: |
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thank you very much for your insight I think it is a light leak now. I took the back off my camera last night and use my cable release to just see if everything was shutting down tight and well it wasnt. anyone have an estimate on what it would cost to get that repaired? |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 90
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 10:16 pm: |
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well, you can get seal strips from a bloke named Jon Goodman for like $9 plus shipping. and it's alot of stuff. good enough for many fixes.
but it depends on what's busted. if you know for certain that the light seal foam on the camera back/wherever needs to be repaired, you're okay. but if it's something more serious like a leaky shutter, then it could cost more.(probably not your case)
and BTW, those marks are usually randomly placed like that. |
Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 9
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 06, 2008 - 12:45 am: |
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well what I did was I took the back of my camera off and started shooting different Fstops. From the full second intervals to F18 the shutter ( or I believe it called the shutter) would not come all the way together. it sounds like there is a timer mechanism that runs then stops and when the camera is kind of tilted starts running again. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 391
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 06, 2008 - 11:58 am: |
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I am sorry, but your description is somewhat confusing. I assume you mean shooting at different shutter speeds. If this is so, it sounds as if the slow speed gear chain chain is sticking - thus the shutter will not close until you move the camera.
You should note; the slow speed gears can still run down further after the shutter has made a correct slow speed exposure and the camera then tilted - this happens when the shutter needs a clean.
My advice would be to get the camera looked over by somebody who knows what they are doing. I do not wish to offend, but I surmise that you have not repaired this type of camera before.
At the moment there are too many variables, to enable the source of the marks on the negatives to be pin pointed accurately. |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 91
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 06, 2008 - 07:56 pm: |
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... and I heard that leaf shutter SLRs like your contaflex are a repairman's nightmare. so i'd echo Glenn's point if the camera is valuable to you. |
Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 10
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 06, 2008 - 10:50 pm: |
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thank you very much. As I am sure is obvious to you all I am just starting to get into photography. I enjoy and want to get better. But the camera is valuable to me for the plain and simple fact that it was my grandfathers. Once again thank you for your help |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 393
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 06:50 pm: |
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A good repairman should have no trouble giving your camera a service. However do look for a guy with genuine experience, a search of the internet should provide you with recommendations. I have no doubt your grandfather looked after the camera, so it is well worth making the effort to get it serviced. |
Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 11
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 08, 2008 - 12:25 am: |
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Well as far as my grandfather looking after the camera he was always meticulous with his belongings so I am sure he did take very good care of it. When I got it it was still in its case. But since he died back in 78 its never been used since until now. But I will take a look around. Does anyone have recommendations?? |
Pfrey
Tinkerer
Username: Pfrey
Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 08, 2008 - 12:47 pm: |
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Hi, Does this camera do this in the daylight too? You should check and find out. If the back is leaking that much light at night, then you should have near complete film fog in the day time. I doubt it's the problem, but it's something you can do that shouldn't cost too much. ... If it's not leaking light in the daylight, then my guess is a shutter fault or operator error (please take no offense) If you were using it on slow speeds or (possibly) the "B" setting, ("T" is a different matter) it looks like the shutter wasn't closing before you advanced the film (as Glenn suggested). I have a fuji 645 folder who's shutter sticks open from a 1/4th to 1 second. Most likely because I never use those slow speeds.. I only noticed it when I was doing low speed flash photography at a dance party: the shutter would open, the flash would fire, but unknown to me until processing, I could advance the film to the next frame before the shutter closed. I diagnosed the problem from the trails of point light sources streaking through frame lines... I don't know your camera, but I saw a picture of one that says AUTOMATIC... if yours is an auto, and "AUTOMATIC" has anything to do with actually controlling exposure functions on your camera (and you used it), then that may be a problem right there. Shoot the night photos (and day light for that matter) on manual until you determine if the problem has to do with a physical light leak or an actual mechanical fault with the camera's operation. An AUTO setting won't do anything but complicate the diagnosis at this point -regardless of shooting conditions.. Another self diagnosis tip is to cycle through the shutter speeds with the camera back open pointing the lens at something bright (like the sky). Set the aperture wide open (small #'s w/ some decimal points and leave set there) then, cycle through the exposure settings from fast to slow times. I doubt you'll be able to tell if the fast ones are off, but if the slow one's get absurdly long (1/8=2 sec., 1/4=6 sec. etc) you have a problem and need a CLA (or refrain from using slow speeds)..If the shutter "works fine" throughout that test, then something is really wrong with your camera or there may have been "catastrophic" operator error. Anyway, just a few things you can check yourself that the repair person will also want to know if it turns out to be more serious.... not to mention, the camera probably needs the exercise anyway...I new to the forum so apologies for the length and if this is more basic info that you wanted.. |
Zeiss_guy
Tinkerer
Username: Zeiss_guy
Post Number: 12
Registered: 07-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 08, 2008 - 10:30 pm: |
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well I did take the back off and did basically what you recommended. I ran the shutter from the highest setting to B and well what is happening is everything in the higher settings such as 1/15 and up is working fine its when its below that when the shutter never closes or will close partially. I can here like almost a timer that is starting and stopping which I assume must be the shutter timer, but it will stall. and then if I move the camera it will start back up again and then finaly close the shutter leaves. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 395
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 07:39 pm: |
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As I previously stated, the slow speed gear chain is in dire need of a clean. A major problem is the fact that with the shutter remaining open, you stand the chance of knackering up the shutter/wind on interlock. This will occur if you force the wind on, when the shutter is still open. Get the camera serviced, whilst the fault is simple and nothing is drastically bent or broken. |
