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Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 111
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 01:11 pm: | 
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so I try that WD-40 as light oil trick... and it's been over a week, and I don't see two distinct layers. just a bit of powdery stuff that appears whenever I tilt the jar. neat. is it ready? not knowing the answer myself, I tried some on a SP-F slow speed escapement. that thing goes crazy fast now. no joke. it's like on steroids. anyhoo, perhaps it's because the WD-40 is like 20 years old, it's in a rusted can with a little diagram of a rocket on it.
so i'll try some on my Kiev and tell y'all when I do.
BTW, crazy fast is a good thing. the speeds are better now. |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 705
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 02:52 pm: |
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Mine got fuzzy at the bottom and clear at the top.... the part that looks clear is probably OK. If you're uneasy about it, try another very thin oil instead...... |
M_currie
Tinkerer
Username: M_currie
Post Number: 139
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 03:28 pm: |
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Speaking of thin oils, has anyone tried the PAG oil that is used in newer R-134 auto air conditioners? I've done a couple of AC fills on cars, and there's always some of that oil left in the can when it's done. It looks to be a very thin, light oil, (synthetic, I think) and seems to work well on small mechanisms, but I've never dared try it on anything critical. |
David_ritchie
Tinkerer
Username: David_ritchie
Post Number: 40
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 06:19 pm: |
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Re the WD-40. In order to get the light oil to separate from the unwanted portion, place the container containing the WD-40 in the refrigerator over night. The two portions will be apparent and you can decant the the light oil and save it. Toss out the rest. |
Scott
Tinkerer
Username: Scott
Post Number: 22
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 06:51 pm: |
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I seen photographers recommending brass instrument valve oil lately for cameras.
It's very light. I've never tried it on a camera, but I used to use a lot of it on my trumpet. Any shop that sells trumpets and trombones will have it. I also read that it's the same as light gun oil. Is that so? |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 706
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 07:39 pm: |
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i dunno, but i do use gun oil sometimes too |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 112
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 08:20 pm: |
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be careful of which valve oil you use... my bro's has white flakes floating around in it. and it's the "high quality" $9 a bottle stuff.
ironically, I think if valve oil was a bit stickier it would work better... mine seems to just drain out and the valves are again sticky. aww. anyways... |
Sevo
Tinkerer
Username: Sevo
Post Number: 8
Registered: 09-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 10:26 am: |
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I'd stay off regular valve oil even for brass instruments going into storage - a pro brass instrument will see heavy use, complete with daily cleaning, hence valve oil will be optimized for a day under rough playing conditions rather than for long storage.
In any case, it is rather strange that people (myself not excluded) are frequently looking for cheap lubricants. I guess we sometimes fail to break down the per use cost of something expensive that is used extremely sparingly, and focus on the per-bottle price.
Small size bottles or tubes will last for months or years even in a busy camera repair shop, which makes it rather ridiculous to economize there - you can hardly put more than a few cents worth of the most expensive oil into one single camera. |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 114
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 12:43 pm: |
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hey! we're cheap people (unless your classic is a Leica). |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 127
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 02:48 pm: |
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NYOIL is the same music store valve oil used on trumpets n trombones n French Horns. It's the same manufacturer/distributor in Queens NY hence NY-Oil. I've used it for many years n never had any problems. Remember, use only one molecule at a time, apply with a needle, don't flood your shutters with it. It's not sauce on a pizza |
Mikel
Tinkerer
Username: Mikel
Post Number: 114
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 05:31 pm: |
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I have used Nyoil on cameras for more years than I care to admit. I still have and use the original six ounce bottle which is so old that the label is nearly illegible. I have used about one quarter of it.
It is applied one tiny drop at a time with a dental pick. And the remaining oil is still clear and seems to be like new. |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 116
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 08:14 pm: |
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update:
WD-40 works for the escapements. no joke. it went from S-L-O-W to Usain Bolt. being chased by the cops.
in fact, it's perhaps too fast... well, the slow speeds. 1/1250 seems impossible to get, mine is like 1/800. lame-o. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 128
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 03:46 am: |
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WD is a light oil but not as light as watch n NYOil. NYOil actually evaporates over time. See that's good in a shutter that just needs a jump start to get the oxidation off the gear pins.
Most leaf shutters should self lube, brass. When they lay for a long time they get oxidized n parts just have too much friction till they wear again. Your WD40ed shutter will eventually slow as the oil dissapates n evaporates, it just takes longer. Lots of use is the best lube you can get.
Be weary of WD as it may gum up over time n you'll be back where you started. Use a very tiny drop at a time. One drop will cover an acre of land. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 129
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 03:49 am: |
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BTW if you spit on the gear pins, your shutter will work just as well as if you used oil, it just doesn't last as long. |
Steve_s
Tinkerer
Username: Steve_s
Post Number: 132
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 05:34 am: |
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WD40 is excellent as a penetrating and freeing oil (it works great on stuck spanner rings) but I wouldn't use it on a shutter. I nearly did once. I put a couple of drops of the separated oil on the concave bottom of a glass jar ready to use, but 5 minutes later when I came to dip my toothpick in the oil it had disappeared completely! What it had actually done, of course, was to spread itself in a uniform layer over the entire base of the jar. This shows why it is an excellent penetrating oil, but rubbish for shutters!
I'd stick to watch-oil or similar. |
