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Pablomartinez
Tinkerer
Username: Pablomartinez

Post Number: 59
Registered: 09-2006

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Posted on Saturday, April 28, 2007 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'm starting a new camera project and this time I want to go from scratch.
I will like to build a field camera starting from a lens of one of the first XEROX copiers that has a very nice diaphragm but, obviously, it has no shutter.

The logical way of building a simple shutter will be a curtain shutter, but I will like to try to build a 6 leaf shutter. I've tried to cut thin aluminum (from a can) to do the shutter blades but the edges are not perfect and it would not close correctly. Black plastic from an Xray works fine, but it is too thick and wears too fast.

Has anybody ever fabricated -succesfully- shutter blades?
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Ekim
Tinkerer
Username: Ekim

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2008

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Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 09:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi pablo! you can try using a galvanize sheets .22mm
thin. i repaired my bessa 66 vintage folding camera which has a broken shutter,which i forgot to notice and check the shutter during the time i acquired it.
check my flickr photostream,MICHAEL JC .
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Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn

Post Number: 388
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 07:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The best material is ordinary shim steel stock - available from any good engineering supply company. Just cut out the number of requisite rectangles, stick them all together with double sided tape and then cut to shape. Socking in solvent will soon loosen the adhesive tape. After making sure the edges on the individual blades are smooth, chemically blacken the blades with one of the commercially available products. You may find that it is easier to punch any holes required in the blades - I made a simple jig that clamps the blade between two steel plates, then allows you to squeeze a suitable diameter drill shank through a pre-drilled hole in the plates, using the jaws of a vice.

You can even fit pivots into the blades using a similar jig - the pins are a friction fit in the blades. Works well even in thin shim stock.

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