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Message |
    
Mikel
Tinkerer
Username: Mikel
Post Number: 221
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 09:40 pm: | 
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In the interest of getting more old classic cameras back on the street and getting more old geezers (like myself) off the streets I am proposing to start a thread which gives advice to other camera repair hobby types. I think that we are ready for this.
What I propose is that we have a thread offering advice as to materials and tools useful in the repair of the type of cameras we focus on here.
Some of the the advice may seem politically incorrect regarding sources, formulas, or whatever. None of that stuff is going to limit my advice. And many of the posters here (all "new") will have as many opinions as there are posters. I hope we can get past that also.
Being in the US, many of my sources will be limited to US sources. Sorry about that but a good tip may be translatable into your own country. If so, and you have knowledge for the forum, that is your invitation to participate. So let's get that up and working.
So understand that I am not setting any rules here and you are not to do so either.
Let's get to the advice:
Early on in my camera repair career, I learned that Pliobond Cement was the stuff to use for attaching leather to cameras, making screw hooks reliable, and various other operations possible.
It's difficult to find today. But I have found the equivalent. It's available at Lowes Home Centers as DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. Less than five dollars. I've tried it and I like it.
Next tip for camera light seals:
WalMart has a product in their craft and fabric department called "Foamies" which are 2mm thick foam sheets. If you can't afford Jon Goodman's stuff (you are hard up at that point) you can get a sheet of foam which you can cut up into 2mm square strips which will answer for most camera groove requirements. I use my wife's rolling blade paper cutter to slice the strips.
Last for today is a tip I picked up from Rick Oleson. It involves a quick fix for pinholed cloth curtains. We all know that the replacement of the curtain is the proper solution but when we are working on a five dollar camera and want to take a few pictures with it, there is another solution. Rick's liquid electrical tape is available and working on my Zorki as we speak from Lowe's as "Liquid Tape" 4 oz for about six dollars.
That's all for now. What do you have to contribute?
I'll be back with some more of the same.
Mike |
Charlie
Tinkerer
Username: Charlie
Post Number: 232
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 06:50 am: |
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For people who don't trust their coordination to wave a hot soldering iron around delicate camera circuitry conductive epoxy makes a good substitute. No mixing necessary, it can be applied with a toothpick and is available in the small kits sold to repair rear car window defroster grids, available at many auto parts retailers. |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 210
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 10:27 am: |
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Sorry, Charlie, for heavily contradicting. I have used that stuff myself and it may have its advantages when there is no other way. But using it also reqiures basic skills which "people who don't trust their coordination" are are lacking.
Is there anything that debars people from learning to use a soldering iron properly? Often tinkering has a negative connotation. This is because people use pliers instead of wrenches for example. Unsuitable tools always leave their marks, and even more so in the hands of unskilled people. We are all non-professionals here, but you can count me out if this thread propagates amateurish advice. I have just finished work on a Canonet S that definitely has seen incompetent repair attempts, everything, even the back door latch had been messed up and if this is what quick tips of the avove sort are leading to it is by no means funny. |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer
Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 292
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 12:06 pm: |
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Pliobond (the real thing) can be had at NetCraft fishing tackle supply. The online link:
http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/rod-building-epoxy/710503.aspx |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 158
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 02:04 pm: |
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when removing tight screws use the screwdriver with the LARGEST blade and FATTEST grip possible.
the larger blade prevents slipping, the fat handle gives you alot more torque. this really makes a difference in my experience... |
Ron_g
Tinkerer
Username: Ron_g
Post Number: 7
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 04:24 pm: |
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I have found Pliobond at Ace Hardware here in the USA in three different size containers.
I bought a conductive glue online which appeared to be powered graphite suspended in a liquid that needed to be mixed thoroughly before using and I needed it to attach the wire to the front side of a selenium cell.Soldering did not work well on the front but was ok for the back side.
George at quality light metrics mentioned that in a note along with the selenium cell that I bought from him which I still have because I reused the old as it fit better.Ron G |
Silversurfer
Tinkerer
Username: Silversurfer
Post Number: 11
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 04:58 pm: |
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Hi folks, first can I say I think Mikel's idea is very commendable. Yes, of course using tools incorrectly/improvising can (and will, in inexperienced hands) cause damage.
But, everybody has to learn and starting on a cheap 'dead' camera will help get your hand/eye in. It certainly did for me and I learn some hard lessons;
no, you cannot rely on your memory where every thing came from; you do need to work in a clear space to have any chance to find those tiny, tiny spring/balls etc that jump out; you do need to think what might be the less stressful (to you and the camera!) way of starting to dismantle the 'patient'
I am retired motor engineer (posh CV word for motor mechanic!). I find a lot of things I did in car repairs carry over to cameras….all be it the hammer is a bit smaller!
I look forward, (as a beginner) to learning many tips and links to products, especially the ones we can find here in UK.
silversurfer |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 203
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 03:47 pm: |
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Great Stuff foam. When you've had it with that dam old camera, fill it with Great Stuff foam.
http://greatstuff.dow.com/
 |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 220
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 08:01 pm: |
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Mikel, thank you for starting this li'l barrel of fun here. Let the classically/politically incorrect stuff fly!
One question, though: I'm interested in that Foamies stuff, but so far I've only heard it mentioned as being available at Walmart. Now, I may not be a doctrinaire type in most regards, but one thing I've made a hard and fast rule about is that mega-chain. I've never set foot in a Walmart and never intend to. (Hate their business practices, you see.) So is there anywhere else I can buy that stuff? |
Mikel
Tinkerer
Username: Mikel
Post Number: 222
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 09:31 pm: |
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Well, I have no such qualms.
As I implied in my beginning post, I really don't have any interest in politically, economically, or emotionally correct diversions. I have my own opinions on all of that stuff and I don't post them on a camera repair forum. I get my foamies at WalMart and that works for me.
If you have hard and fast rules about any recommendations I make, that is your issue. You were certainly notified in advance.
This thread is not about WalMArt, Lowe's, Home Depot, Micro Tools, or anywhere I shop. It's about what I find there. I've listed brand names wherever I can so you can use the internet to find your own more acceptable sources.
Next cheap thrills tip:
I posted this years ago so I don't think it's even in the archives any more.
Someone asked about a source of tungsten wire and other connecting thread such as is used in the Canon AE-1, the Yashica FR, the Minolta SrT101, etc.
I replied that professional camera repair technicians for several years had used kevlar thread such as Spiderwire fishing line of the correct diameter as a very satisfactory substitute (from Wal Mart btw). I also added that I had used it to my full satisfaction.
My thanks was a comment that he might try it but would have to run tests on it for stretching before he would consent to use it on his $10 camera!
Some comment. Some thanks.
That is the attitude which I hope we can see less of here. Good advice freely given but frequently picked apart for whatever bad reason just seems to crop up for - what, entertainment?.
Anyway, SpiderWire kevlar fishing line has worked well for me. Five dollars will probably get you a fifty year supply! |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 221
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 09:49 pm: |
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Just to clarify a very small point here, my comments were in no way meant to belittle or pick apart your suggestions. I'm simply looking for a way to satisfy my own peculiar requirement (not shopping at a business I consider despicable). I'm simply looking for information, and have no intention of snidely dismissing your very sensible suggestions. |
Scott
Tinkerer
Username: Scott
Post Number: 89
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 10:52 pm: |
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David, those foamies are probably at the better art-supply or teacher-supply stores.
I have found them to be too dense, however, to use and door-seals. They don't compress well.
Another DIY tip-- Black yarn makes a good seal in some cameras, and was the way that many 1940s and 1950s cameras were sealed by the manufactureres when new. |
Mikel
Tinkerer
Username: Mikel
Post Number: 223
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 11:01 pm: |
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I guess foamies and walmart are out of here.
So am I.
Mike |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 222
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 11:34 pm: |
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Don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out ... |
Prasanna
Tinkerer
Username: Prasanna
Post Number: 49
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 - 02:17 am: |
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I use Black knitting wool thread to seal the grooves and the felt from used 35mm cartridges for the door seal near the hinge. I stick them with Fevibond, which is like Pliobond. Any Latex rubber solution would do the job. For holes in the curtains I use black nail polish; it dries quick and is flexible. One can coat several layers, too. Thanks for the start Mike! It will be helpful to many. sp |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 - 05:01 am: |
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Germany related shopping tips for cleaning things:
- Coleman fuel/white gas is Waschbenzin. Silly enough, in DE you can buy anything sometimes very remotely resembling white spirit under this name, but the DM-Drogeriemarkt has a really clean one in 0.5L containers.
- Frosch Fensterreiniger (green) is about what Windex in the US is, good for cleaning general optics on the outside.
- you can't trust drugstore isopropanol to be clean (sic!), but drugstores are the best source for lab grade bottles in various sizes, ask for Aponorm brand. Available off-the shelf in 0.1 - 1L sizes at bargain prices.
- clean water (it's not distilled, but clean enough) can be had at DM, Schlecker and most Baumarkt shops, but the latter tend to have not-so-clean make. Do a droplet test on a mirror prior to use.
Tool tip:
- For camera mechanics the flat-slot screws have usually narrower slot than DIN. Get a box of flat small screwdrivers and a grinding stone. Sharpen your screwdrivers
- Plilips (cross) heads have often shallower cut than philips standard. Again, typical watchmaker set can and should be adjusted by filing tips flatter.
Marek Lewandowski |
Charlie
Tinkerer
Username: Charlie
Post Number: 233
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 - 08:02 am: |
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I have read about the use of black yarn in several forums but always wondered if over a period of several fears the inside of the camera would accumulate a lot of small fibers in the shutter and on the rear lens element. Does anyone here have enough experience with it to say yes or no? Also I have used foamies successfully but because I'm not much more deft with a razor blade than with a soldering iron I now use Jon Goodman's kit of precut strips and find I can do 5 or 6 cameras without having to make a trip to Walmart. |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 - 09:41 am: |
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It much depends on yarn used. From personal experience: pay attention and avoid anything with synthetic component in it. It may state "pure wool/cotton/whatever" on the front and "40% stretch/acrylic/plastic" on the back. Natural fiber is indifferent to most solvents and oils used in camera cleaning, so you just have to take care of the annoying lint (if any). Some synthetic fibers will react, or dissolve and redeposit a residue if not thoroughly flushed. I have not had this problem in a camera, but in some other optical instrument where somebody tried adding light "baffles" made of such thread. It worked well till some solvent fumes turned it to goo-sticky mess.
Marek |
Aphototaker
Tinkerer
Username: Aphototaker
Post Number: 163
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 - 01:08 pm: |
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I will confirm that wool yarn works wonderfully in the thin channels just above (and below) the film compartment. I have used this in two cameras and both are working wonderfully.
But note that it should be pure wool, not acrylic or a mixture of other synthetic stuff.
For the foam strips on the doors or on the back, I have two approaches. First, the one that I have tried, is to use felt strips, readily available from any arts and crafts supplies store (perhaps in WarMart too, but haven't tried there yet). Second, one which I am yet to try, is to use wool yarns in parallel to create the strip.
To glue these things to the body I use an adhesive good for fabric and metal. Also available from arts and crafts stores readily. I can look up and post the exact trade name, if somebody wishes me to.
Finally, a possibly dangerous tidbit. I once wanted to remove a retaining ring from a lens and did not have the proper spanner. The ring had two diametrically opposite slots. I use a pair of scissors, very carefully but firmly, to engage those slots with the tips and screwed it open. |
Rbeverag
Tinkerer
Username: Rbeverag
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 - 03:56 pm: |
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Make your own spanners from sheet brass available at hobby shops. I have also made small brass spanners and screwdrivers to use when there is doubt as to whether a screw has a left hand thread. If I guessed wrong, the brass tool will let go before the screw breaks. |
Denny
Tinkerer
Username: Denny
Post Number: 27
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 24, 2010 - 09:37 pm: |
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Great Idea. Our local Ace Hardware sells brass sheet stock in varying thicknesses as well. I also found Pliobond and Liquid Electrical Tape (minor bellows repairs) there as well. |
Ron_g
Tinkerer
Username: Ron_g
Post Number: 8
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 05:19 am: |
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Great tip Denny,I am looking for something to use to connect the batteries when building battery packs for various things,flash units etc and that brass sheet would be great to cut strips out of if it be thin enough.Got to check them out.Thanks.Ron G |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 07:51 am: |
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For batteries: a clip for hanging laundry with a piece of bare wire braid wrapped around each tip makes a great quick-contact for button batteries. Good either for measuring them or to provide electricity to eg. a half-disassembled light meter.
Wide, double sided scotch tape that can be had at any home-depot / baumarkt makes a perfect catch-pad for small screws when taking things apart (warning: not good for parts that need to slide/rotate against each other! Glue may leave small residue.)
LEDs are ok photodiodes/photovoltaic cells, you don't need extra power supply, just wire them to a microphone jack and use strong light source. IR-emitting diodes (like for a remote control) are even better.
As a last resource when looking for a hopelessly lost screw that escaped with a loud BOING of freedom use a vacuum cleaner: take an old nylon stocking, put it as a filter between sections of vacuum tube, run the vacuum on low speed and not too long at a time. You may also use piece of a wall of a fresh dustbag. This will stop everything, so check regularly before it clogs hopelessly.
3M / Scotch and Weld Industriereiniger auf Limonenbasis (limonen based industrial cleaner spray) is the next best thing to a wonder when de-gooing just about anything metal as well as many plastics. It does attack some plastic surfaces so check first. It is also acid, so you need to clean after it, but it removes things that white gas leaves completely unimpressed. I would not flood a shutter with it, unless hopelessly stuck, but cleaning after leatherette glue can be eased a lot. Avoid extensive application to assemblies, as it can get trapped between parts and cause corrosion if left there.
Marek Lewandowski |
Aphototaker
Tinkerer
Username: Aphototaker
Post Number: 164
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 08:32 am: |
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Regarding using the vacuum cleaner, I was trying to put a tiny screw back in the camera body and when I touched the screwdriver to it, somehow it bounced off the camera, bit the table and bounced again to fall to the carpet on the floor, where it yet bounced again before coming to rest some place.
For the life of me, I couldn't find, even with a flashlight. Thought of vacuum cleaner, brought it in, plugged it in and then thought a bit more. Thinking of what I desired to happen (I wanted to pick metal only), I instead grabbed one of those magnetic souvenirs stuck on the fridge (the strongest and largest I could find) and scanned the area with it. Found the screw in almost no time sans possible dust and other stuff. I verified with another screw that magnet worked on them. |
John_s
Tinkerer
Username: John_s
Post Number: 16
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 01:04 pm: |
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Re dropping screws and small parts: always work over a large tray or similar. Many screws are non magnetic.
I've found cotton buds (Q tips) excellent for cleaning small lenses, just tease out the end slightly to make it a little larger and softer. Choose the better quality ones, some aren't suitable being a little rough.
I've got an old pair of metal dividers which are useful for unscrewing lenses. You have to be careful they don't slip and scratch the retaining ring though. The correct spanner would be ideal of course. |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 12
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 02:57 pm: |
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Re magnets: There are times, where you don't want your screws to get magnetized (anything close to an escapement in a watch or shutter), and many of them aren't magnetic anyway (brass...). However, I had, as a general rule, a piece of rare-earth magnet from a HDD put on a string in vacuum's dust bag. Before throwing dust away I'd check, what got on the hook |
Aphototaker
Tinkerer
Username: Aphototaker
Post Number: 166
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 04:11 pm: |
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Mareklew: Interesting!
Here's another one:
Verifying the focus of a camera
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I have used a 50 mm lens of an SLR to verify if the focus was corresponding to a camera's distance scale.
I used a rectangle of scotch tape to make a screen. Taped some tape on the sticky side too so that only the top and bottom edges were sticky and pasted it to the aperture of the camera where a film frame would be.
Mounted the camera on a tripod, opened its shutter in "B" (kept is open using a rubber band a little ball made out of sticky pad), and focused the camera to an object at a specific distance. Using the 50 mm lens, it was quite easy to make out if the image on the make-shift screen is sharp or not. The impurities on the screen help to confirm if it is in focus of the 50 mm lens. Works very well. |
Charlie
Tinkerer
Username: Charlie
Post Number: 234
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 06:57 pm: |
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To catch any loose parts I put a wash cloth in a pie pan and work over that so that falling parts won't roll too far or bounce. Not my idea, I read it here several years ago. |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 228
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 07:03 pm: |
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Regarding the ever-present problem of having little parts go "sproinggg!" into the fifth dimension, never to be found again, I use the method favored by many repairers-of-things-with-little-teeny-parts: a simple piece of cloth laid over the workbench. (Mine is a piece of lightweight white canvas, or maybe what they call "duck", not as heavy as, say, tent material.) Little parts that fall on it usually don't bounce off it, but just stay put.
Usually. |
Denny
Tinkerer
Username: Denny
Post Number: 28
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 11:11 pm: |
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There are a lot of great tips being shared here. Thanks to all.
After spending too much time looking for a tiny set screw, I now use two 8X10 developing trays with a sheet of paper towel in them. One for "clean" and one for "to be cleaned". |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 13
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 02:51 am: |
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As trays go: I have a number of small development trays, that fit about 7.5x10cm (3x4in) paper that I got for a bargain price (who does 3x4" anyway). When I disassemble things, I just stack trays with small parts in order of disassembly.
As to canvas over working area etc: all parts that really went BOING on me didn't even care to touch my workbench. I had, however, once tried putting a piece of equipment that was REALLY spring loaded (nothing photo), what I did then, was to get a TV packaging box from the basement, put it on the side and work in it. Out of six ways to freedom this left only one open, and I sat in front of it. After gazilion of attempts I managed to put both springs AND that screw in at the same time...
Marek |
Ron_g
Tinkerer
Username: Ron_g
Post Number: 9
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 04:28 am: |
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I use that frosted Scotch tape as well to verify focus and it was recommended to me to use a magnifying glass as well to be able to read it properly.
I have lost parts as well,I guess it goes with the territory.I use a strip of foam rubber insulation that has one sticky side across the edge of my desk which catches some things.It comes in a roll and is used to seal doors and windows etc.I have tried different surfaces to work on but my problem is that whatever I use tends to move around some.I use paper towels occasionally as the light background aids in seeing those small parts.
I would like to find a source of small springs,floor sweepings from a spring factory would be great.I have written to some of the spring factories but have not found anything yet.Ron G |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 230
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 09:26 pm: |
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Regarding the use of "Scotch" tape for a focusing screen: Please get real.
C'mon, show you're a better tinkerer than that. If you've got what it takes to boldly tear into that camera and take it apart, you can surely take the five or ten minutes it takes to make a proper focusing screen.
Which is nothing but a little piece of glass, big enough to cover the film rails in the case of 35mm, ground on one side. To grind it, all you need is another, larger piece of glass and some abrasive. Ordinary valve-grinding compound from an auto store will work, but even better is a finer silicon carbide grit (I use 1200 grit, bought at a Japanese tool store here in Bezerkeley).
Make us other tinkerers proud. |
Ron_g
Tinkerer
Username: Ron_g
Post Number: 10
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 04:41 am: |
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I got the tip from some pretty savvy guys there David.It works for me.Ron G |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 215
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 05:59 am: |
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D.N. is right. Makeshift tools for a quick fix? Yes, if it seems the only solution under given circumstances. Other than that, it is low level tinkering, not on par with this forum's standards, no matter how "pretty savvy" those "guys" you mention seem to be. What, according to that rating, is the other end of the range? |
Shacksmac
Tinkerer
Username: Shacksmac
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 11:42 am: |
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David's ground glass recipe is great - in the UK carborundum powder is the thing to use - if it is still available.
One further point; it is much easier to get the accurate focus on a ground glass screen if the ground surface is NOT TOO FINE. Focus seems to snap in and out better. |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 240
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 04:23 pm: |
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Well, I disagree with you about fine vs. coarse screens--I prefer fine ones--but that's the beauty part: you can grind the screen to whatever fineness of coarseness suits you. Or grind 3 or 4 screens to match your mood. Coarse for weekdays, fine for weekends. |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer
Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 294
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 05:34 pm: |
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Personally I just cut a piece of 1/32nd or 1/64th thick Plexiglas or Lexan and sandpaper one side. Easy to make it too fine or too coarse.
And, as for springs flying off to nowhere, make yourself a big clear plastic box with holes for your hands to fit through. Put the box over your work area. Work on the camera in the box. Never lose a part again.
As for part trays, get your favorite tray and glue magnets to the bottom of it. The magnetism will work through the tray. Or you can get plenty of those flexible magnetic ads, trim to fit and glue them to the bottom of trays. |
Adrian
Tinkerer
Username: Adrian
Post Number: 299
Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 06:08 am: |
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The discussion on ground glass has come at the perfect time - I've got 15 sheets roughly 7x9cm, and 2mm-ish thick at work that we can't use for anything, and my thoughts fell to ground glass. I've got some wet-and-dry paper and glass cutters from cutting viewfinder mirrors for my Brownies...
So if you hear of someone calling me "Stumpy" you'll know I goofed with the glass! |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 766
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 08:52 am: |
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Nowt wrong in using a suitable 'Scotch' tape as a substitute for ground glass in my opinion, certainly if the only piece of genuine glass is too small etc.
The comments on grinding your own are interesting, especially in the light of some comments I found on a demographics site that turned up in a Google search for technical details of pre WW11 artillery! Typical Google search content as usual; however, the precis under the site name happened to catch my eye - It mentioned this forum, stating that it was inhabited with males age 50 plus who were college educated and seemed to have plenty of time on their hands! Personally I do not have spare time on my hands and repair equipment to use, hence will use any quick dodge to get me out of the workshop.
This takes me back to my model engineering days, when five of us would use the lab machine shop 1/2 nights a week to construct various models. Whilst I always built traction engines, the others constructed railway locomotives - well we were part of BR at the time. By the time I moved on I had completed a traction engine and three locos were 98%/99% complete: however, the forth loco was never finished, never really got off the ground, the bloke constructing it insisted on making jigs and fixtures for everything and never got round to actually constructing the loco.
Depends where one's priorities are I suppose and how much free time one truly has. |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 26
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 08:30 am: |
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For redoing (engraved) lettering on lens fronts etc. see my thread here: https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/2/18443.html
This will not be loved by collectors, but if you do it on a beater camera just to pimp it up I think it's okay. It really gives the final touch of shine to a restored ex- write-off.
Marek |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 251
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 10:41 am: |
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Marek--good one. (I haven't finished reading your posting in detail yet but skimmed it and got the gist of it.)
Another tip: for certain kinds of engraving, it's even easier to use ordinary nail polish. I use this to fill in red dots, lines, arrows, etc., that have become faded. Just brush the lacquer (that's what nail polish is) into the engraving, intentionally letting it slop over just a little bit so it covers the edge. Let it dry, then take a Q-tip (cotton bud) just moistened with lacquer thinner, and clean up around the engraving until all that's left is the lacquer in the depression.
I guess this could work for lens-front lettering as well, except that I don't know of any white nail polish. |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 27
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 11:21 am: |
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Yep, David - nail polish will do, but I have yet to find one, that will be white, and not be semitransparent at the same time.
Anyway: a bottle of cheapo nail polish is anywhere about 2€ here, whereas a can of humbrol enamel - 1,60€, so until your wife/girlfriend has a matching color ready...
These Humbrol enamels are a hot tip themselves, besides being available in a wide range of colours they are VERY resistant. They will withstand heat, moisture, salt, mild abrasives, detergents, you name it. I once had a (cheap) watch I liked very much, but its back started to rust. Polished it off, painted with humbrol, wore 24h/day the next few years, paint withstood it without losing gloss.
Marek |
Chiccolini
Tinkerer
Username: Chiccolini
Post Number: 89
Registered: 06-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 12:02 pm: |
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There are laquer sticks for this purpose in various colors which can be found at http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=PAI (most are on the second page. Click "next" or click "show all items on one page" to see them all.).
Personally, when only "freshening" the color, a toothpick with solvent will remove enough dirt and upper micro-surface of paint to make the numbers/letters look new.
When I have had to renew the white color I have used Wite-Out, the white stuff for covering typewriter mistakes. |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 49
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 12:47 pm: |
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Another cheap thrill, albeit seldom useful: for a scratched all-plastic focusing screen (scratched on the flat, smooth side, not on the fresnel lens side): buy a *good* protection film for electronic devices' LCD. I highly recommend the "Brando" UltraClear type, but there are other brands almost equally good. What you look for is adhesive-free *thick* hard screen protector with soft silicone backing (usually a 3-layered sandwich: silicone, soft plastic, hard plastic). Soft, thin or matte protectors won't do.
The thing is, these hard, thick silicone backed protectors when applied to a scratched surface fill and seal the scratches and become optically neutral. If the screen is like a Rolleicord screen, i.e. the reference surface is the fresnel surface (springs push the screen on the smooth side), you can apply a screen protector that is bigger than the cut-out in top frame (increased thickness is not a problem here). If the reference surface is the smooth surface (springs press on the fresnel side) you have to cut the protector so, that it does not come under the frame or focus will be off.
I have a Rolleicord that had rather wasted focusing screen - previous owner seemed to assume it's glass and cleaned it as such, it ended up having almost a second matte surface. This trick saved me looking for a spare Rollei screen (not that I wouldn't like a nice, new, bright screen, i just don't want to spend lottta money on a 3rd party one)
This trick will also work on scratched LCD glasses etc.
Marek |
Elwrongo
Tinkerer
Username: Elwrongo
Post Number: 62
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 09:17 pm: |
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Most sticky seals will clean up with Isopropyl Alcohol or Windex but some brands (Ricoh!) have incredibly hard to remove gunk that is pain to clean up. IA doesn't work. I found this product called Craft Clean-Up (Australia) that does the job very well. You have to be quick though as it will remove paint as well if left on the surface to long. I think it may be Acetone I'm not sure. |
Elwrongo
Tinkerer
Username: Elwrongo
Post Number: 63
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 09:19 pm: |
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On Isopropyl Alcohol by the way, in Perth, Western Australia, you can by it directly by the litre from Fauldings (Welshpool) for $7 (as opposed to $15 for 200ml in the chemist). |
Foto_gaga
Tinkerer
Username: Foto_gaga
Post Number: 8
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 18, 2010 - 05:20 pm: |
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Isopropyl Alcohol goes for $1. for 12 oz. here in the US. Usually available in 50%, 70% and 91% strengths although the 91% is usually higher in price. |
Mndean
Tinkerer
Username: Mndean
Post Number: 222
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 18, 2010 - 05:41 pm: |
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Used to be able to get Anhydrous (100%) Isopropyl alcohol here in the US for a buck and a half for 12 oz., but the pharmacy/discount store that sold it went out of business when the owner died. It was great for cleaning things that you weren't sure what they were made of and were fearful of using lighter fluid. Dried instantly. The chain pharmacies that are all that are left here don't sell it. 91% is the strongest and that's not even very easy to find. I just quit using it since now most of my cameras are modern enough not to have anything that will be damaged by Ronsonol. |
T6nn
Tinkerer
Username: T6nn
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 19, 2010 - 04:39 pm: |
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re: magnets. You can improvise a demagnetizer out of one by fixing it to the spindle of a small motor, so that it's poles will spin around.
Hold it close to the magnetized object for a second, then move slowly away- and it probably isn't magnetic anymore. |
Fred_m
Tinkerer
Username: Fred_m
Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 27, 2010 - 11:25 pm: |
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The scotch tape thing is an excellent, workable focus point for those who can handle tape.
The cost of isopropyl alcohol is also not worth discussing. |
