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Bobehud
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Username: Bobehud

Post Number: 5
Registered: 08-2010

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Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 07:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This is not for one camera brand but an open request to those who have improvised and made it work.I like to tinker.Some of the older 35mm's i have picked up have a few light leaks .I have seen something here and there about the DYI persons answer to seal kits.Foamie have came a few times..black wool yarn..i really want restore the seal kits as my wife's old purse collection is providing me with leather to redo the bodies.
Lol...

Thanks all
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Denny
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Username: Denny

Post Number: 46
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 08:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I know there are several that cut their own, but Jon Goodman's pre-cut sets and excellent instructions, in my opinion, are well worth the money. I only have about 4 cameras that need seal kits, so that may make a difference on the economies of cutting your own.

As you probably already know, he has posted many of his instructions on this site. Here is the link
https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/sealreplacement.html

He sells on ebay, but will also sell direct for those of us that don't have ebay accounts.
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Aphototaker
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Username: Aphototaker

Post Number: 253
Registered: 12-2009

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Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 07:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It is best if you check the archives (search feature really is not quite userful, use google, e.g. camera seal site:rangefinderforum.com).

No matter which method you choose, the biggest chunk of work is common to both: removing the older seals using toothpicks and naphtha. Consequently, there is hardly any time saving in either method over the others. The only difference that remains is then regarding the economy.

I myself prefer using wool, where ever it is feasible, over synthetic foam though. So far it has worked extremely well.

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Charlie
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Username: Charlie

Post Number: 242
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Monday, August 23, 2010 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Have you had any trouble with wool shedding fibers? I always worried about finding the fibers in the shutter or in the light path .
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Brianshaw
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Username: Brianshaw

Post Number: 90
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Monday, August 23, 2010 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I wouldn't recommend wool, but a synthetic yarn.

Loose fibers aren't a real issue.
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Aphototaker
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Username: Aphototaker

Post Number: 254
Registered: 12-2009

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Posted on Monday, August 23, 2010 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

No, I haven't had any problems yet. I understand this concern and I have been keep an eye out for telltale signs of trouble. But so fat it has worked quite well.

I have used wool basically in the dust/light seals, the ones that go in the grooves for the top and bottom edge of the film door. For the rest of the places, I use foam from crafts store for the mirror damper and velvet for the door hinge side and latch side deals.

Recently I have used wool for the seals at the edge of the door as well ( the one that engages the latch) in a Yashica Electro 35. Shot a roll, no problems there either.
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John_s
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Username: John_s

Post Number: 30
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Posted on Monday, August 23, 2010 - 03:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Another vote for wool, I don't usually even bother to scrape the old foam out of the grooves, as it helps to keep the wool in position. I just put a little silicone adhesive into the groove at the ends and either side of the counter resetting lever to retain the wool thread. Lay the wool into the groove and gently stretch it whilst pressing it down.Once you have closed the back on to it, which pushes the wool into the groove, you would hardly know it was there. It's best to open the back after an hour or so, before the adhesive has completely set, just to make sure it isn't stuck and clean off any excess. Like a lot of things, it's finding a technique which works for you with the tools and materials you are comfortable with using.
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Bobehud
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Username: Bobehud

Post Number: 7
Registered: 08-2010

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Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 07:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Okay i cant help but to tinker with things,I had an Olympus OM2n leaking light and the hinge and sprocket area was looking at the soft fuzzy half of Velcro..i thought 'eh' way too thick but after an hour with a toothpick and some nail polish remover it looked a lot closer tried it,ran two strips down the door past the sprockets as well.Door shuts fine and took a cple of test rolls no leaks and all is well.Just thought id pass that on.
Oh yes its just peel and stick has adhesive on the back.
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August
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Username: August

Post Number: 42
Registered: 06-2008

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Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've tried wool/yarn, but my vote remains for craft foam. I used to use the marketed repair sets, but the value proposition became unattractive to me when Goodman et al stopped selling large, generic kits in favor of single-camera "custom" kits. Black craft foam really works just as well. The trick is that if you cut it to the right width, you don't need any adhesive for the door channels; the expansion pressure of the foam keeps it firmly in the channels.
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Bobehud
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Username: Bobehud

Post Number: 8
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Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

craft foam..where can i pick that up..any brand name it goes by..?Im sure the foam is better i was just working with what i had on hand.
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August
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Username: August

Post Number: 43
Registered: 06-2008

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Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The closest thing to a brand is "Foamies" but mostly it is just generic. In the American craft store chain Michael's there is a rack with sheets of it in different colors and sizes. I probably got mine on the auction site, a lifetime supply for a few dollars. Search "1mm craft foam" and "2mm craft foam" and get a bunch of each.
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Verduzcor
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Username: Verduzcor

Post Number: 10
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 03:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I used black foamy to reseal: F1, AT-1, F-1n, A-1, just cut 1 or 2 mm lines depending the model of camera, it self adjust to needed thickness after a day of closing the camera. For the mirror dampening, foamy is too hard, look for black sponge with larger bubbles from box of PC hard disks, jewels, etc.
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Bobehud
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Username: Bobehud

Post Number: 13
Registered: 08-2010

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Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2010 - 06:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

okay guys i have to tell you i have done two Canon FTb's with fuzzy velcro-its self adhesive and crushs down nicely after a short time also did my OM 2n all three when i shot the first roll had the light leak spots at the sprocket holes now just a clear as it can be all three are cooking along great..took an after roll and was very happy...
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Fallisphoto
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Username: Fallisphoto

Post Number: 143
Registered: 09-2006

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Posted on Sunday, August 29, 2010 - 07:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

August, I agree that Jon's product became a LOT less attractive when he switched from large generic kits to camera-specific kits. It's still a good product, but it's only good for people who own just a few cameras. These days it pays those of us who have a lot of cameras to seal to get either craft foam or to buy a generic kit from Microtools instead.
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 148
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Sunday, August 29, 2010 - 09:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I recently purchased some supplies from Microtools, including the foam. They seem to have changed their shipping options. I was unable to select normal US Post and was required to use a private service. This doubled my shipping charges and added brokerage fees and taxes. It almost doubled the cost of my order (something I was not aware of until the package arrived).
Although I really like the self adhesive foam sheets, I will be forced to look for an alternative since the cost is now prohibitive.

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