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Ctphoto
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Username: Ctphoto

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2010

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Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 01:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi there,

I am relatively new to vintage cameras but have got my hands on a rolleicord Va in pretty good condition. It is a marked improvement on my old zeiss ikon cocarette!

My problem is with the slower shutter speeds. Anything slower than 1/8 second uses what sounds like a spring loaded timer which doesn't run too smoothly. The same noise is heard with the self timer. When deployed, rather than a smooth whirring noise, it is slow, intermittent and eventually grinds to a halt before completing the 10 second delay. Likewise, I have timed the 1 second exposure and found that the shutter is open for about 2 seconds.

I think this is more of an issue with the timer than the shutter leaves themselves as all is well at higher speeds. Is there any way to gain access to the timer and give it a bit of a clean? Using the timer again and again doesn't seem to be freeing it up any. Failing that, is this something a CLA would fix?

Many thanks,

Chris
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Dirbel
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Username: Dirbel

Post Number: 39
Registered: 04-2008

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Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 02:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

To get access to the timer, you have to remove the lens cover.
A repair manual for Rolleiflex/Rolleicord is in the 'Repair Manuals' section of this site.

Ciao,

Dirk
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 167
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Try a drop or two of lighter fluid down each of the levers for shutter speed, aperture and shutter release.
I did this with mine and it sprang back to life.
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Mareklew
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Username: Mareklew

Post Number: 186
Registered: 03-2010

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Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Although timer and slow shutter sound the same, they are completely diffrent assemblies.

Read here: https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/2/19153.html?1281461416 on how a typical shutter of that period works (it's about copal one, but the basic operation is the same).

Your shutter will need cleaning and lubrication, don't try pouring liquids through lever slots. You may or may not succeed in improving the operation, but big chance is, you are gonna make cleaning much harder later.

Marek
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Ctphoto
Tinkerer
Username: Ctphoto

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2010

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Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Dear all,

Many thanks for your suggestions. Marek, very interesting re the shutter mechanisms. Perhaps a little complex to attempt myself given my naivety in restoring such things, but great to understand what is under the hood so to speak.

Chris
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Ethostech
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Username: Ethostech

Post Number: 161
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Thursday, October 14, 2010 - 08:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The slow-speed escapement in the shutter mechanism is gunked and requires cleaning. Same with the self-timer mechanism. This is quite usual with fifty year old cameras and is no big deal to correct at the hands of an experienced techie. But Mareklew is dead right to caution NOT to inject fluid into the shutter and aperture levers. When such solvent evaporates you will be left with sticky iris blades, sticky shutter blades, contaminated lens elements and unreliable shutter activator ring operation. A Rolleicord VA deserves better and would justify experienced attention.

Hope this helps
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 168
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Thursday, October 14, 2010 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Funny, I don't remember every using the words "pouring" or "injecting".
I guess I just don't want the OP to end up with a pile of useless parts when they try to disassemble the shutter with no prior experience.
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Mareklew
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Username: Mareklew

Post Number: 187
Registered: 03-2010

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Posted on Thursday, October 14, 2010 - 01:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Waynemel,
it's not about do this instead of the other. It's about being aware what is inside and what harm can be done and most likely doing neither.

I would go as far, as to say, that in case of compound central shutter assemblies, like in the Rollei, it is essential not to try naphta applied to the assembled shutter at all.

A clean-and-lubricate for an old, but running Compur/Copal shutter is a one-hour job for me (adjustment, if necessary, not included).
To do the same with a shutter, to which somebody applied one drop too many (and sometimes the first drop might be too much already) of naphta, is a full-night enterprise, which includes stripdown and reassembly of aperture, shutter blades and activator ring and a thorough wash of all parts in a few changes of solvent in an ultrasonic cleaner.

The very misleading experience about naphta is, that shutters often do run "better" (i.e. with no hesitation) afterwards, they just run a stop or two too slow on fast speeds (and that's hard to spot without a tool), and they just as well might freeze on first shot after any longer pause.

Marek

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