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Zenzaman
Tinkerer
Username: Zenzaman
Post Number: 19
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 10:53 am: | 
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i've just bought a hi-matic 7s to replace a hi-matic 9 i bought broken some time ago. the seller said he didn't know much about it so i hoped it was ok. the lens is wobbly and there's a rattling sound coming from the lens (i suspect a loose screw, that would explain the wobbliness too). the shutter works and seems accurate, but the meter has a mind of its own. if i hold the camera horizontally it won't move from its up position but if i turn it sideways it seems to give a reasonable reading, yet underexposing when compared to my xe.
the hi-matic 9 had a good meter but a dead shutter (also seemed to miss some components from the shutter assembly from a previous 'repair guy'. my question is can i transplant the lens from the 7s to the body of the 9? (assuming the metering issue is not cds-cell related) (the 9 also has a much crispier focusing patch) |
Neuberger
Tinkerer
Username: Neuberger
Post Number: 29
Registered: 01-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 01:45 pm: |
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Except for a few cosmetic details, engravings etc., and the wider range of shutter speeds on the Hi-M 9, the cameras are practically identical.
I once swapped parts of the film winding system of a 9 for defective components of a 7 and although the parts looked different they were a perfect fit.
Transplanting the lens as a whole, with or without the front plate, means you will have to readjust infinity focus of both the lens and the RF. Separate elements of the lenses are not interchangeable however. |
Zenzaman
Tinkerer
Username: Zenzaman
Post Number: 20
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 11, 2011 - 01:54 am: |
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i've fixed the wobbliness. the 'shutter plate cage' (i don't know what it's called) was loose because the previous guy who attempted surgery on this camera only replaced two of the three screws keeping it in place and also used a wrong screw. the rattling sound was the shutter speed ring's click stop piece floating around the barrel. there's still a small amount of looseness of the lens but i believe it can only be fixed by taking the whole lens down and accessing it from the behind.
i've taken of the bottom plate and a little squarish brass piece fell out. i have no idea where it came from but it has rosin on it but no soldering tin marks... funny enough, the light meter started working after this but it overexposes by around three stops. i've noticed three calibration pots (?) on the light meter assembly. how can i calibrate my meter? and why is it overexposing so badly? (the light meter reacts to both changes in lighting and changing of iso setting) |
Neuberger
Tinkerer
Username: Neuberger
Post Number: 30
Registered: 01-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 11, 2011 - 09:18 am: |
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Your first assumption about the remaining wobbliness is right, but this means a complete stripdown of the camera, disassembly is easier than reassembly, and it is an awful lot of work, but that is what tinkering is about, I guess.
I have no idea about the "squarish brass piece", but often small pieces of scap metal were used as counterweights balacing the needle of the meter to make it move smoothly, maybe it had come off and somehow blocked the needle from swinging freely. Often one can see where it was glued to the system, but you have to be extra careful glueing it back is difficult by two!
As I do not have a factory handout for the calibration it is a case of trial and error, with the two pots of the older Hi-M 7 and the three of the 9 I usually start with all of them in mid-position and then try everything to get as close to the shutter/aperture combination as my handheld CdS meter in low light/bright light conditions. Maybe someone else can help out with a better method. |
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