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Njp
Tinkerer
Username: Njp
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 16, 2011 - 02:46 pm: | 
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Well, where to start. I'm a high school photography student, and this is my third year. I've been collecting cameras, and have gotten about 40. I've been fairly lucky in picking working cameras, but usually some need a little repair.
So it's easy to say I have a bit of experience in camera repairs. However, most of these repairs are on Rangefinders.
Recently, someone in the photography club at my school came in with a Nikon (not sure of the model, but I know it's a late 90's) with a broken shutter. It looks like someone was playing with it and put a finger through. The top part of the shade was literally ripped out.
We have a camera (same model, just a bit older) that was donated non-functional. I have been in the process of dis-assembling it for my photo teacher, and offered to replace the shutter from the older camera to his camera. The old camera's shutter fires just fine, so I figure I should be able to replace it.
I am having a bit of issue with getting his camera open, and getting the shutter out of the other camera. His camera has some screws I think were just overclocked, but I'm not sure. I'd appreciate any help.
There is one screw on the old model that I can't get out, because of what looks like some epoxy on it. I'll upload pictures if necessary. There are a few other screws that don't seem to be sealed but I can't get them off.
Any help in finishing the disassembly or replacing the shutter would be great. |
Brcamera
Tinkerer
Username: Brcamera
Post Number: 114
Registered: 08-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 16, 2011 - 02:52 pm: |
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To get any sort of help on this, we really will need to know the model of camera that you are working on. Make sure that your screwdriver bits are fitting the screws properly. A standard phillips bit will probably not work on the small crosspoint screws. |
Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school
Post Number: 129
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 16, 2011 - 10:51 pm: |
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Njp: Greetings, as Brcamera stated above, it will help. The screws are probable secured in with a glue substance like LOCKTITE (TM) which comes in different strengths. The Red is like permanent nothing it seems will work to break it down, but there may be solvents now available for it, not sure. Blue & green, are the other two I believe. There are solvents available for these from the MFG. Some times a little heat from a soldering iron applied to the head of the screw will work too.
Check the site here for manuals: http://rangefinderforum.com/classics/repairmanuals.html
Also type in the search noted above for some sites for other manuals from different sites. We will see what the group can do for you. The Best Mike..... |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 952
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2011 - 09:30 am: |
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The screws on all Japanese cameras of this era have heads to the JIS standard. A proper set of JIS bits, fitted into a driver that has a large hand filling grip, will remove any factory inserted screw - chemically locked or not. Note; do not use this large gripped driver to tighten up the screws on reassembly, you will probably strip them out if one is heavy handed. Always use the standard slimline driver handle for assembly work unless one has a suitable torque driver.
The heat from a 100 watt soldering iron will allow the removal of screws locked with all types of epoxy and threadlocks. The trick is to apply the heat properly and for a suitable length of time - the copper iron tip needs to be squared off for flatheaded screws and be the diameter of the screwhead, for domed/round headed screws forming a concave recess in the copper bit will allow better heat transfer and tip location.
There is a problem with using chemical removers via the screwhead, the solvent has problems reaching the dried lock in the thread area. This is because the underside of the head is in hard metal to metal contact with the upper surface of the part it is holding down/in place, there being very little compound in the interface area, If the solvent is applied to the threads protruding from a nut or threaded hole in a plate, it can penetrate the thin layer of threadlock that is spiraled round the none bearing surface of the thread vee. It is the threadlock in this space that actually does the 'locking' in small threads as the other side of the threadform vee has very little of the product in the interface area - being in hard metal to metal contact with the appropriate mating surface of the nut or metal plate it is retaining. |
Njp
Tinkerer
Username: Njp
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2011 - 05:28 pm: |
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Thanks guys. I'll try the soldering iron trick, and get back to you. I'll also leave some info on the model when I get a chance to talk to him. I just can't remember off the top of my head.
As for the LOCKTITE - it's none of those colors (probably just age, though). It's an orange-yellow, but browned a bit or so it seems.
I'll try these suggestions. Thanks a lot. |
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