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Sapata
Tinkerer
Username: Sapata
Post Number: 16
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 14, 2011 - 01:13 pm: | 
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I don't know what's happening here but at first I thought it was a problem with the way I was developing my negs (Rodinal stand development).
So this time I did a normal development and I still have those annoying white marks on the edge. Is this light leak? Here's a quick dirt scan... |
Eskimogus
Tinkerer
Username: Eskimogus
Post Number: 18
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 12:37 am: |
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I think It's because of the Standing developing
Usually the edges would be black, not the center.
Try agitating method,
See what happenes |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 113
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 01:43 am: |
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Do you see these white marks also on the spaces between the frames ? |
Sapata
Tinkerer
Username: Sapata
Post Number: 17
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 11:52 am: |
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Hi Eskimogus... this is normal developing already.
Hanskerensky, there are no marks between the spaces... just on the edges. |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 114
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 12:49 pm: |
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So when these marks are only visible on the 6x6 image frames and not on the edges of the space between 2 image frames then it looks to be some kind of reflection from the internal sides of the filmchamber (or lens tubus ?).
These sides should be black and have a matt finish. When they are glossy (oil ?) you could get something like in your photo.
Another cullprit could be that the lightshielding brush around the tubus of the taking lens is not good any more but that normally gives more circular lightleak patterns. |
T6nn
Tinkerer
Username: T6nn
Post Number: 22
Registered: 06-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 03:40 pm: |
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As the "light leak" seems to affect only bright parts of the image, I would say it's still a development issue. More agitation and tank inversions instead of just turning the spiral could probably solve it? |
Sapata
Tinkerer
Username: Sapata
Post Number: 18
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 05:41 pm: |
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Thanks T6nn... I have read some arcticles about that as well on the web. I normally turn the spiral VERY gentle to avoid bigger grains with the Rodinal. I also think (or prefer to...) that is agitation issue rather than the camera, light leaks are not so uniform... but what really bugs me is the fact that I processed other films from different cameras and that didn't happen! |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 243
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 05:19 am: |
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Don't do it 'very gentle'. I'm afraid this is the problem. If you have tight spiral (spacing from film layer to film layer is narrow), then it's hard to move the developer deep between the coils of film. It will easily move (fresh come in and old move away) around the edges, but in the middle the old mixture will only shift around a bit and not get refreshed.
Try developing with vigorous movements. Don't be afraid of grain. Best invert the tank a few times every minute or so. If your tank has open top, then at least stir it VIGOROUSLY. I mean, like you were going to start a kids' spinning toy. If the effect is gone, you pinned it down. If the grain turns out to be too much, switch to Xtol or change the dev tank to something with better circulation.
Marek |
Sapata
Tinkerer
Username: Sapata
Post Number: 19
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 09:13 am: |
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Thanks Marek...
I have a film about to be finished inside the camera, I'll developing this time as sugggested and see what happens ;). |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 245
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 12:02 pm: |
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By the way: if you are spinning the coil of film, make sure that you do it the right way around. If the film goes on the reel like the tail of the "@" symbol, then the proper direction to spin is counter-clockwise. This way you push fresh developer between the coils. If you do it the other way around, the inertia will move the developer away and the film layers will pull together and may stick. Not to mention the developer will not get refreshed well.
Greets!
Marek |
Sapata
Tinkerer
Username: Sapata
Post Number: 20
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2011 - 05:45 pm: |
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sorry Marek, i guess my english is not good enough to get what you mean...what's "coil of film" means? also... when I load the film into the reel it goes emulsion down and shine side up... |
Jeffk
Tinkerer
Username: Jeffk
Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2011 - 08:46 pm: |
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Interesting. I ran some 122 film through my old Nixe a couple years ago, photos were great and sharp but the negatives had dark/light banding that I thought were due to light leaks. Maybe it was during hand-developing - not sure how the local print shop owner did this, there aren't any tanks available for this film. |
Mareklew
Tinkerer
Username: Mareklew
Post Number: 248
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 02:58 pm: |
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@Sapata, English isn't my mother tongue, so I am less clear than I'd like.
When you put film into the tank, it goes on a sort of a spiral, or is otherwise kept from sticking together. As you wind it onto the spiral it forms a coil, layer after layer, there's a gap between layers.
The smaller the gap, the more film can go onto the spiral (or the smaller the tank can be), but it's getting harder to get fresh developer between the film layers.
If your tank is watertight, then it is supposed to be turned upside-down and back to normal a few times to stir the developer. Jobo 1500 series tanks are like that, for example. The proper way to stir such a tank is to turn it upside-down and back about three times within about 10 seconds and then slam it onto a hard surface to dislodge any air bubbles trapped in the film. Slam it hard, but not to break it. You repeat it once every minute*.
If your tank is built so, that to stir the developer you spin the [film with the spiral film holder] inside the tank, by means of a knob sticking out through the tank lid, then you can spin the spiral clockwise or counter-clockwise.
The proper way is so, that the developer is forced between coils of film. If you look onto your film spiral from above, it will look either like this:
@
or like a mirror reflection of it.
The 'o' in '@' being the spiral's axle and the 'tail' being the film going around it counter-clockwise. If it looks like that, then spin it counter-clockwise.
If the film goes clockwise around the axis, then spin it clockwise.
You have to be careful, you spin it in an 'intense' way, so that the developer really moves between the film coils, but not so hard as to rip the film from between spiral coils.
For the 120 type film the inversible tank type is much, much better than one you are supposed to spin, exactly because of the risk of getting the film ripped out from the coils.
Marek
* I know there are many ways to stir it, some stir more, some less, but this is how I do it and I get much better pictures than posted here, so let's start with these numbers and work from there. |
