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Dgmaley
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Username: Dgmaley

Post Number: 6
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks to your forum search engine, I have already found answers to most questions. Hoping you can help with what's left behind. I've been collecting and using a few vintage cameras.
1. Pentax K1000 that I found at a Chicago dealer that was closing. It was new, but the original customer returned it to the dealer with a light leak, 30 years ago. This camera sounds like no other camera. Does the internal light meter have a limited range? Certain lens-shutter combinations cause the meter to just unbalance. Nice, basic SLR otherwise.
Argus C3: This one was built in 1964 and placed in a time warp due to the owner passing soon after purchasing it. All the chrome does nothing to change how ugly it is. It also gathers the most interest from others. The pictures always look just a touch soft no matter what I do. Is this normal?
Canonet, model 28, version 2. This one had also been in a time warp. The original owner died right after buying it. It looked like I stepped into a 1971 camera store and just walked out with the box. The only unresolable issue was the leather case had a mold that made it look like the world's worst Geo pet. The shutter isn't fast enough and shuts off when I use 200 speed or faster film when used in sunlight. Is this normal? And can I still mail in the warranty card<grin>.
Canon A-1: This one was used professionally from the early 80's until the early 90's, then sent back for a complete rebuild. The owner then placed it in a shoebox until his son sold the shoebox to me last year. It's as smooth as butter. Looks to be new. I mounted a MA motor drive but found it intermittantly shuts the motor off before cocking is complete. A AE1-P does the same. Any ideas?
Thanks for any help with this stuff.
Dave...
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 1144
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

1. If I recall correctly, yes, there is a range limit to the K1000 meter, and if you go beyond the range the meter shuts off or does something strange. If you have the owners manual for the camera it should explain the effect (I'm sure I have a manual somewhere but I'm not sure just where).

2. Depends on what you compare it to. The C3 has a 3-element anastigmat lens of average/decent but not outstanding quality. It will handily outperform the lens on a disposable or bottom-tier P&S digital (the kind you find hanging on a card on the WalMart wall); but if you're comparing it to an SLR, yes, every shot is going to look soft. The triplet lens is much better stopped down than wide open, so using it in bright light helps.

Don't know about the Canonet and A-1; the Canonet should not shut down based on film speed, as the shutter has no way of knowing what film speed you have loaded. The A-1 issue sounds like it might be in the motor rather than the camera, since it behaves the same on the A1 and the AE1P.
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Dgmaley
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Username: Dgmaley

Post Number: 7
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 07:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Rick. You are right about me comparing the C3 lens against some nice 50mm SLR types. I have an older Kodak Pony 135 that is about the same age but is really sharp although its lens is radioactive.
The Canonet is the only internal light meter that I have that runs out of range on the high end and refuses to trip the shutter because there's too much light. I suspect it was designed to be used outdoors with 50 or 100 speed film and no more. It came with its mating flash unit and otherwise does a nice job. Got well recoginized at a outdoor Beach Boys concert.
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Connealy
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Username: Connealy

Post Number: 56
Registered: 02-2008

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 07:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've had several C3 and have been pretty happy with the quality of the images from all. It is worthwhile on any old camera to check all the key points of adjustment including the infinity focus to make sure you are getting the best possible results from the camera. I have some C3 shots posted from a couple of my cameras posted on my vintage cameras web site. They are admittedly at small apertures, but making some allowances for the quirks of old technology is part of the fun, I think.
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Br1078lum
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Username: Br1078lum

Post Number: 166
Registered: 11-2010

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

On an Argus C-3, the proper lens mounting technique needs to be followed, or the lens will be slightly out of sync with the rangefinder.

Set the Rangefinder dial to 3 feet.

Mount the lens, making sure it threads all the way on.

Align the focusing ring on the lens to closest focus so that when you place the transfer gear back on the camera, it slips into the last tooth possible on the focusing ring.

Hopefully, this will clear up some of the softness you are experiencing in your photos. And check that the lens is clean. A slight haze may have formed over the years that is not noticeable to the eye, but may show up with a bright light shown at an angle through the lens. As long as it was in storage, this could be the most likely reason for the softness.

If you need to clean the lens, make sure you get the center element back into it's proper orientation, or all your photos will be sharp in the center, with increasing OOF towards the edges. But then some folks like that.

PF
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 105
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The Canonet running out of range is not correct. It should shoot with 400 ISO in bright light without any problems. It sounds like the Cds cell is dying and causing over exposure.
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Dgmaley
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Username: Dgmaley

Post Number: 8
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

OOPS! PF you caught me there. I didn't pull the lens apart. Only did casual inspection and left it alone. I will also verify how I set up sync with the rangefinder. Although, the touch of softness gives its images character when I shoot chromogenic B&W film. This camera looks like the Russians and Germans got together and designed a camera the Russians could use on the Moon. It should have been assembeled in a Russian tank factory.
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Dgmaley
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Username: Dgmaley

Post Number: 9
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Wayne, do you mean under exposure? I haven't recalibrated the meter and am using a higher voltage silver oxide battery. I ignore the ISO scale and set the light meter for good film density. 400 speed film looks right when it's set for about 150. 100 is almost too dense, but gets the shutter to work in sunlight.
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 106
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yes, sorry, underexposure. If you are using a higher voltage battery, that may be the problem.
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Dgmaley
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Username: Dgmaley

Post Number: 10
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

OK Wayne. This camera had the original factory mercury cell in it. Still had a bit of life left and hadn't leaked yet. Some tarnish was visable and had to be removed. Still took some tweaking, bending, and cussing to get a new battery to make a reliable contact. I will just burn the film more on a sunny day.
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 107
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Does the meter in the Canonet fall to the bottom of the scale, with a lens cap on? It should. If it "hovers", it could be a dying cds.
You can use a 1.4v hearing aid battery and not have to compensate for the slight voltage difference. These are very easy to find and very cheap.
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Dgmaley
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Username: Dgmaley

Post Number: 11
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Wayne, I hadn't thought of using a standard zinc/air hearing aid cell. Type 13 should just about be the right size. They may only last about six monthes in a camera, but they are only about 35 cents each. Thanks for the good idea. Yes, the meter drops to the bottom of the scale when its dark or covered. It also tracks the focus control when the flash is turned on. I'll run a test roll with a new cell and let you know.

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