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Sbrenno
Tinkerer
Username: Sbrenno
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 02:36 pm: | 
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About 25 years ago (in my teens) I was given a camera via family and I taught myself about F stops, shutter speed, depth of field etc.
I took a lot of photos with it - with mixed success but it was a good thing.
It has "Werra" written on it; this was (to me anyway) always a mystery brand, but it worked ok so there was no problem even though it had a wierd "operating system".
I was recently moving house and dug it out of a box, so I decided to suss it out.
It has been living unused in it's leather case for most of about 20 years.
I worked out via the internet it is a Werramatic and found out the history of its manufacture.
Having re-discovered the thing I am pretty keen to get it going and take some real photos for a change (as opposed to digital ones)
It is in good condition and everything seems to be working ok (even the light meter)
The aperture and shutter speed rings are a bit stiff but I expect this would improve with use.
(Lubrication?? - is this possible/reccommended?)
My main problem is the focus ring (50mm lens), which refuses to turn properly.
It will turn about a millimeter each way but it appears to be hitting a mechanical stop (?)
Could be there is a build up of gunk inside but in the absence of any real knowledge of the interior mechanics of the thing I am reluctant to force it.
It is obviously a precision instrument so I dont want to break it trying to fix it.
I have a pretty good mechanical background and I am confident I could fix it ok if I had a few pointers and didn't go in blind.
Anybody got any ideas? |
Adrian
Tinkerer
Username: Adrian
Post Number: 329
Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 03:44 pm: |
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The Werramatic has interchangeable lenses (though, given the price of the 35mm and 100mm ones for practical purposes it is probably safer to say that it has a removable lens!) - if you look here, this should give you an idea of where it removes:
http://cameras.alfredklomp.com/werramatic/
I believe that the chap I sent a spare lens too recently asked here - if you search the archives for Werra, you should find his message - drop him an email and see if he can help. Also, there are some helpful threads from way back about dismantling Werras. Rather too many with my name on...
As the focus ring is on the lens rather than the body, I'd remove the lens and see whether you can see a way in from there. The aperture itself is in the back of the lens assembly, and is moved by a ring with a notch in on the back of the assembly, so you will be able to see whether it is the adjustment ring or the aperture itself that is stiff. If it's the aperture itself, I think you are on your own - sorry!
As for the aperture and shutter speed rings, I guess you could try a little graphite, but you do run the risk of it getting everywhere. Oil is a bad idea as it tends to spread, and will clog the aperture or shutter if it gets to them, They both operate with large surfaces in contact with large surfaces, so a little oil will cause a lot of drag, and slow/jam things right up.
Before you think about dismantling them, check whether they are meant to move separately - on the 3 they are coupled together, and you need to press a small tab on the right-hand side of the lens (as you point the camera away from you) to uncouple them.
If you want to clean them up, you can remove the lens holder assembly without having to dismantle the shutter (which is almost unique to Werras). How exactly I can't remember. Email m if you decide to go that way and I will take a look. |
Sbrenno
Tinkerer
Username: Sbrenno
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 07:08 pm: |
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Thanks for the info - much appreciated
The apperture adjustment is all good and the lens comes off ok, the focus ring just wont budge
I will keep scratching around to see what I can find out
I found a page with instructions for dismantling the lens so I might give that a go
OMG amateur camera mechanic!
I think I will leave the hammer and shifting spanner in the shed
I will definitely have a look at the link you posted
Cool camera, obviously WAY ahead of its time - I think the designers might have been showing off
Elegant in appearance and in its mechanical design
I am as keen as a bean to get it going again
Thanks again |
Tronds_63
Tinkerer
Username: Tronds_63
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 03, 2012 - 02:41 am: |
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This may be a bit difficult.
Lighter fluid will help dissolving old gunk, but you may end up with fluid into the lens between the back and center element.
To clean this you have to unscrew the locking ring that holds the aperture in place. If you do that, you may not get it back together without dismantling the whole mechanics, since there is a set-screw that locks the aperture plate from rotating. You also risk getting the aperture blades out of position, and getting them back is a real PITA.
If you have to open the aperture to clean the glass inside, open the aperture fully before removing the locking ring and the aperture plate with the rear lens element.
It may be a bit tricky to get it out since the hidden set-screw is holding it.
Once it is out, find the mark where the set-screw presses against it and file a small notch where the screw will fit snug into the small notch when reassembling it. The screw will still do it's job and you don't have to disassemble it totally to loosen the set-screw.
If you unscrew the helical, you have to reset focus, which can be difficult, but a focusing screen taped to the film-plane a measuring tape, a tripod to mount the camera on and a candle to focus on will help you getting it right.
Set the candle at 1,5 meter distance from the film-plane, focus with the rangefinder. Check if the scale on the lens is correct, check if the image on the focusing screen is correct. If not, focus on the focusing screen using a magnifier to help, adjust the focusing ring in relation to the lens until the scale and rangefinder agrees with the measured distance.
It's a bit tricky, but can be done if you take your time and work systematically. |
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