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Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 17
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 30, 2012 - 12:08 am: | 
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I'm having some slight issues with my Canonet QL17 (this is the "New Canonet" QL17 which does not have the GIII badge but is basically the same besides not having a check battery light)
I bought my camera recently at an antique shop quite cheap, assuming it was non working, but when i put in a 1.45v p675 battery i found that the metering/auto exposure was working so i shot a test roll of 400 iso film.
I compared the meter readings with my DSLR, and found that Canonet was over-exposign by about 1 - 2 stops, which is strange as with the higher voltage battery i'm using it's supposed to be underexposing. This was not a problem as when the film was developed all pictures looked properly exposed,
But i have noticed some other strange quirks with the metering with this camera,
I never get an aperture smaller than f8, even with the ASA set to 800, the slowest shutter speed and the camera pointed at a bright light source, the needle never moves below f8.
Also, when moving the ASA selector down from 100 to 25 ASA, the needle drops down to a smaller aperture instead of wider. the metering in 25 ASA is the same as 800 ASA.
100 - 800 ASA work fine besides overexposing slightly, and not giving a aperture smaller than f8.
What could be causing these issues? I'm mostly worried about the not getting small apertures issue. |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 1270
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 30, 2012 - 08:57 am: |
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When I checked my own GIII I found the meter was adjusted to overexpose by about 1.5 stops... enough that the adjustment error was greater than the voltage difference from zinc/alkaline/silver batteries... and I had been using the camera for years without complaint (negative film only), the only down side having been losing the benefit of that f/1.7 lens when I could have been using the same shutter speeds at f/2.8. However, it sounds like you have a different problem, possibly something blocking the needle or the movement mounted so that the needle hits the end of its travel at f/8.
I have some sketches and notes on the GIII which you might find helpful in chasing down this issue. If you'd like a copy, email me at [email protected] |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 18
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 30, 2012 - 10:11 am: |
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Rick_oleson, just sent you an e-mail. |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 19
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2013 - 08:39 am: |
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I decided to check the ASA resistor contacts, and found that one of them seemed to be out of shape:
I think this was the cause on my incorrect metering in low ASA settings problem, as the contact was not touching the ASA ring at all when lower ASAs where selected.
Unfortunately, it broke of when i tried bending it back in shape...and then i lost the broken piece! (embarrassing amateur mistake i know!)
Anybody have any suggestions on what i should do now!? |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 40
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2013 - 10:21 am: |
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I know nothing of the camera but from the pic, looks like the 'L' shape is missing so why can't you get a piece of brass/copper (can't tell), about the same thickness and bend to shape and a bit larger then solder it into place? You can grind it down easier than adding metal to give correct contact? |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 1271
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2013 - 10:25 am: |
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My take would be to forget the meter and use the camera. Leica M3s don't have meters, but people still like them; the Canonet has many of the same advantages, a good fast lens, quiet shutter, bright and precise viewfinder and compact size. It's not that hard to judge light if you're shooting on negative film, I seldom use a meter any more. Here are some starting points for ISO 400 film:
- full sunlight, f/16 @ 1/500
- Shade, f/5.6 @ 1/500
- Office light, f/4 @ 1/60
- Daytime home interior, f/2.8 @ 1/60
- Evening home interior, f/2 @ 1/30
If you really need a metering QL17, I'd look for another one. Sorry, I guess this isn't a real good DIY answer... but it's what I would do. |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 20
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 02, 2013 - 12:14 pm: |
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G3bill, that's what i was thinking. I found a piece of copper and bent/cut it into a similar size only it's slightly thicker. Will a normal soldering iron be all right for soldering the copper?
Rick_oleson, I'm going to try to fix it, but if it doesn't work out it's not that big a deal as the camera has a manual mode! |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 1272
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2013 - 06:59 pm: |
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A normal soldering iron should be OK. Use a paste flux on the parts before soldering, the joint will bond much faster and with less heat, reducing the risk of damaging something else from the heat of soldering. Clean off the excess flux afterwards with lighter fluid. |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 41
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2013 - 11:40 pm: |
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A note: you might want to tin the surface where the new copper piece will set and same to the copper edge of new piece. By tining quickly you wont apply too much heat to other surrounding parts, wait for it all to cool before final soldering. I think that repair will be fairly strong as its L shaped. Good luck!
ps. If that metal is looking oxidized to you you might want to wipe the contact area with vinager or muratic acid and rinse using a Q-tip prior to soldering... |
