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Baljemmett
Tinkerer
Username: Baljemmett

Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'm having a bit of trouble with a Canonet G-III QL17 I've been working on -- it's been sitting on my shelf for a while and I decided it was time to sort out the gummed-up shutter. Cleaning that was straightforward enough, and likewise the aperture blades which had got similarly oily since I bought it.

However, now that the aperture and shutter blades are nice and clean -- opening and closing snappily, etc. -- I've found it's developed a few other issues:

- the aperture ring no longer turns as smoothly as it did - it's a bit 'gritty', and occasionally seems to get well and truly stuck on 'A' until left alone for hours at which point it can be shifted again.

- the double-wind interlock doesn't work unless a little pressure is applied to the shutter-speed ring; without turning the ring lightly against the detent, in the direction of a faster speed, it can be wound on continuously. The shutter can still be fired, though, so it is getting cocked.

- the meter reading (when on 'A') doesn't seem to couple through to the diaphragm quite right; it seems to close a stop or two more than it should. For instance, the meter reads f/2.8 but by holding the shutter button halfway and looking from the front, the aperture looks to be more like f/5.6 - f/8. (This may have been an issue before I started cleaning anything, but since the blades were initially too sticky to respond to either the meter or a manually-set aperture I couldn't check.)

To my inexperienced eye the first problem looks like I've managed to wash away some lubrication during cleaning, which is probably a valuable learning experience; I'm not sure how the second issue might have developed, though.

So, I'm hoping some kind soul might have some suggestions on where I can go from here! I've had a look at the disassembly diagrams and can't really see how to get any further in than removing the lens ID ring and front element - or even if that's the right way to get to the relevant parts of the lens barrel. Any advice would be hugely appreciated.
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Fidji
Tinkerer
Username: Fidji

Post Number: 43
Registered: 12-2011

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Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2013 - 05:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

To remove the lens/shutter unit you have to unscrew the retaining ring inside the back of the camera,but be warned this range of canon cameras are not the easiest to work on.
As far as the 'gritty' aperture ring is concerned,there is a detent ball and spring on the models which I have worked on,and if you flood them with lighter fuel,the lack of grease makes them stick and the ball will come out if there is enough play.
Sometimes,the lens /shutter unit is slightly loose on the camera body,and this can cause communication problems between body and lens unit.
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Frank Wilson (Wolfmancameras)
Apprentice
Username: Wolfmancameras

Post Number: 19
Registered: 05-2021


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Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2022 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If the complete lens barrel is loose the backside of the lens is threaded with a counter clockwise threads. A spanner is needed to tighten securely and you may need to make your own tool since the film plane opening restricts a normal spanner tool
FRANK

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