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Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 589
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 06:33 pm: | 
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In my continuing saga of fixing a Contaflex II for a friend of mine, I got around to taking the top off to clean the viewfinder area. 68 photos at http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGFzN9G
It's a lot easier than I thought it would be, because I'm always thinking that Zeiss has designed something so oddball for doing the simplest task. There was a couple of surprises, but they were not hard to figure out, such as the loose supports under the top cover retainer screws.
Now I have to make a tool to remove the shutter assembly retainer ring. Should have bought one when they were for sale on eBay.
PF |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 1332
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 09:11 pm: |
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I don't recall that ring being real difficult, but I don't remember what I used for a spanner. Pretty good chance it was a modified long nose plier like the ones at the lower left in this photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26262745@N08/9234351159/sizes/o/in/photostream/ |
Fidji
Tinkerer
Username: Fidji
Post Number: 53
Registered: 12-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 03:12 am: |
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Great pictures again. As you say, removing the top and pentaprism/focusing screen is fairly easy once you find the thicker spacer that sticks in place, until you hold the camera up, and it falls in your lap. Then spend 10 minutes thinking it's part of the shutter button assembly, because it is too well made to be a simple spacer!
It's good that it is simple, because most contaflexes have got debris on their mirrors and this is the only way to get to them to clean.
I take it now you have made a retainer ring tool,
that you are going to use it?
Looking forward to your next set of pics.......... |
Jon_goodman
Tinkerer
Username: Jon_goodman
Post Number: 56
Registered: 05-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 06:43 am: |
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Just what Rick said. I repaired these for years and years. The main thing is whatever tool you use must be angled correctly. Once you remove the shutter, remember you have to position the 2 rings correctly to replace it and then you have to tension the spring...the 21 turns after you see the aperture close down all the way. Good luck. Somebody here was looking for a good prism. I have one (along with a couple of small parts).
Jon |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 591
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 08:40 pm: |
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Whoa, Jon. 21 turns? I was told on another forum it's only three to four notches past close-down.
Rick, I did find that a pair of pointed spanners would work just fine, and now have the shutter off the camera. http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGGUAkw
I keep a cheap "micro-fiber" cloth on my workbench top to catch things like that, Fidji. Worked good for the first one by the meter, but the second one went flying because I hit it with my finger while winding the camera.
PF |
Jon_goodman
Tinkerer
Username: Jon_goodman
Post Number: 57
Registered: 05-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 10:06 pm: |
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Ha, ha...I said turns, but I meant notches. Serves me right for posting so early in the day. Thanks for catching that. Three or four notches past close down? Please ignore that suggestion, amigo. Trust me, some confusion is involved somewhere. Three complete turns of the star wheel? That is possible, but three or four notches won't do it for you. Your aperture blades must be capable of closing completely before the shutter fires and that spring you're tightening is the only thing that will propel them. Otherwise you will get an odd fuzzy halo effect as your film records the blades in the process of trying to close. It is an interesting effect, but only if you're into strange photos as art.
I sold the shop manual I had about a year ago to a gentleman in Australia. The procedure however is to install the shutter with the aperture completely open. Note the position of the 2 rings. They must be sitting in the right spots. Once you have everything in place and reinstalled, remove the set screw from the star wheel and carefully and slowly begin turning until you see the aperture blades start to close. I always used two bamboo sticks to move the star wheel. Use round ones that are small enough to poke into the screw hole to keep the star wheel from spinning back on you...this will make sense when you get there. When they've closed all the way, then focus your eyeballs on the screw hole for the set screw and carefully count off 21 notches. When you've done that, poke your bamboo stick into the screw hole to hold the star wheel and tighten the central screw enough to hold the wheel but leave it loose enough that you can wiggle it to align with the set screw hole enough to get the set screw back in place. It isn't always easy to get your screwdriver on that central screw. Then tighten the central screw and install/tighten the set screw. Now...set the shutter for 1/500 and the aperture at 22, remove the back and point the camera at a light source, cock and release the shutter. You should see a quick small dot of light when the shutter opens. Watch carefully to be sure those aperture blades are totally still when your shutter opens. If you've done everything right, they will be. If you see any motion at all, something isn't ok in there. Good luck!
Jon |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 594
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 12:28 pm: |
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Jon, I'll see if I get a halo on the test film. It felt pretty tight to me when I did the four notches, and your visual test looks to be proper. It's all back together now, focused, and ready to shoot. I even checked the PC sync to make sure it would trigger a flash.
PF |
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