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Putorius
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Username: Putorius

Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2009

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Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2009 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

can anyone tell me how difficult a procedure it is to undertake "tightening" up an FD mount on a 70-210 Canon branded lens? When attached to the camera body the mount appears to be loose, whereas the other lenses attach and are firmly mounted with no slop. thanks
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 487
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It is very unusual for a genuine nFD lens mount to wear. I can honestly say that even after years of heavy professional use, all my nFD lenses still mount without slop.

You do not state where the slop actually presents itself; but if this lens has been subjected to some DIY butchery, there is one area that you should check. Make sure that the radially located mount retaining screws at the rear of the lens are really tight. At manufacture these screws were really torqued up tight, many DIY repairers have trouble removing these and on reassembly fail to re-tighten securely. If these screws are loose slop can present itself as - 1/ movement between lens and camera mounts when lens is locked on body. 2/ Holding the body firmly you can 'bend' the rear lens barrel side to side or up and down. 3/ A combination of 1 and 2.

Can you actually state where the slop actually occurs?
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Putorius
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Username: Putorius

Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2009

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Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This lens has never been subject to any DIY repairs and the slop occurs when in locked mode onto the camera body. It is seen as radial movement up and down and side to side between the lens mount and the camera body. I have actually had to insert a thin piece of cardboard (+- .5mm) as a shim to stabilize the lens...but I would rather have a perm fix as I'm giving the camera/lens to my brother in law and don't want him to have to deal with it. There is a certified Canon repair station fairly close by and I can take the lens there if need be. Suggestions? Thanks
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Cooltouch
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Username: Cooltouch

Post Number: 10
Registered: 01-2009

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Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've repaired a number of Canon FD lenses. The new FD ones are kinda tricky compared to the older breech-lock style. Chances are, like Glenn mentions, all it needs is to have a few screws tightened.

If this Canon certified repair facility has been around a long time -- or if its techs have -- you shouldn't have any worries, I would think. If they don't want to deal with it, look around for a repair guy who's been in the trade for a long time. He should be able to handle this.

Best,

Michael
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 488
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Monday, January 12, 2009 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Scott,

Just to make it completely clear - with the lens fully mounted and locked on the body, are you saying:-

1/ The lens does not 'droop', ie if you held the camera body and were able to insert a feeler gauge into the (none existent) gap between the lens mount and camera mount interface, the 'gap' would be constant over the 360 deg interface?

2/ What actually happens, is when you hold the body in one hand and the lens mount in another, you can 'slide' the lens mount up to say 12 o'clock, down to 6 o'clock, across to 3 and 9 o'clock in relation to the body mount ( or any other position on the clock face).

If it is as described in 2/ I may be able to give you a simple fix - will dig a spare mount out and check the projected procedure out. However you should note that this will/may only fix the sliding displacement between the 'male' / 'female' mounts

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