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Message |
    
Eli
Tinkerer
Username: Eli
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 08:26 pm: | 
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I have an otherwise pristine Hi_Matic 9 with one problem, the aperture setting ring has loosened/slipped out of place and I can only get the aperture to change only once in a while with no idea what has changed.
How can I get into the front of the lens to see what's what and once I'm there, how do I fix it?
Does anyone have a schematic or manual for this lens or repair tips to share?
Eli |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 99
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 05:07 am: |
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Hi, what makes you so sure it is the ring itself and not any internal linkage that produces malfunction of the aperture?
The Hi-M 9 is a rather complex camera and it is by no means easy to repair; it is definitely no beginner's initial project.
Maybe this link helps you understand why this is so:
http://homepage1.nifty.com/fukucame/daisaku/d59.htm |
Charlie
Tinkerer
Username: Charlie
Post Number: 215
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 05:33 am: |
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If you hit the "back" button on the referenced website there are links to a lot of good illustrations. Too bad I don't read Japanese but thanks for posting. |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 100
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 09:06 am: |
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I cannot read Japanese either, but I know how to use suitable translation tools (Google; Babel Fish, ...) The translation you get may be far from being perfect, but with a bit of phantasy and common sense one can figure out what a text is about. So where is the problem? |
Eli
Tinkerer
Username: Eli
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 10:29 am: |
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Harryrag, I do think the problem is inside the lens but I described it as the outer ring because that is the symptom I can observe.
Thank you for the link. I had visited it before but the info seems to be too limited for me to chance opening the camera. You are correct when you assume I am a beginner. None of the lenses or cameras I've worked on demanded the sort of work this camera seems to need but, if it were a simple matter of opening the front of the lens to reset and adjust a mechanism, I wanted to find out what is possible.
Let me ask, is there anyone here that has positive experience with this Hi-Matic lens whom will make the repair in exchange for a camera?
Charlie, I have a bookmark labled "Translate" in my browsers' tool bar that links to the Google Translate page. You might want to try the same for hassle-free translating of unfamiliar languages. What I like about the Google page is, after you've translated the target page, hitting other links to same language pages will give you automatic translations.
Cheers, Eli
Eli |
Scott
Tinkerer
Username: Scott
Post Number: 48
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 12:07 pm: |
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I had my Hi-Matic 9 open a few times (a few years ago). If the retaing ring/nut (brass wavy-nut) becomes too loose, then there will be too much play on both the shutter speed and aperture selecting rings, and eventually things will slip out of position.
There is a notch (or a pin?) in the knurled aperture ring that engages a pin (or a notch?) on the black aperture actuator. Put the pin back in the notch, and then adjust the play on the retaining ring/nut.
If you remove the front lens element groups, then you can see the retaining ring/nut. |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 101
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 01:03 pm: |
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Well then, I own several specimen of the Hi-M 7, 7S, and 9 and all of them had the gummed-up aperture and/or shutter syndrome. Some of my Hi-Matics also suffered from severe lens wobble for which this camera type is somehow notorious, and which has at least two reasons. A quick research in the archives will clarify the matter. So once a repairer is inside the camera I consider it advisable to retighten the screws and regrease the helicoil.
I have learned that just superficially cleaning sticky shutter or aperture blades will not prevent the blades from gumming up again sooner rather than later.
I would guide you through the repair process, but without the proper tools and basic knowledge you are on your own because knowing what has to be done and actually doing it is not the same.
But maybe there is someone who can help you the way you suggested. |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 102
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 01:20 pm: |
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Scott, from what you say it becomes obvious you are not referring to the Hi-Matic, as there is definitely no wavy nut and also the aperture activating mechanism is a lot more demanding and its line-up does not correspond with what you describe. The shutter plate in the Hi-Matics is held in place by tiny slothead or crosshead screws, dpending on the batch to which the camera belongs. This is one of the reasons why this camera is a lot more difficult to repair than other rangefinder cameras of the same vintage. |
Nickon51
Tinkerer
Username: Nickon51
Post Number: 85
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 07:29 am: |
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Eli,
Here are some photos of a Minolta Hi-Matic 7 which may be useful.
The thin chrome outer ring has to be removed. The notches are for a lens spanner.
The black ring with the CDS cell should drop out, don't damage the wiring.
At about 9 o'clock is the Auto latch, at about 1 o'clock is where the shutter speed ring engages the shutter lever.
Remove the 3 screws and take off the outer barrel. You can see where the aperture ring engages the aperture lever.
Both of the levers go down to the lens base on the outside of the shutter itself.
I'd be happy to repair it for you but the mail to OZ would be prohibitive.
Greg |
Eli
Tinkerer
Username: Eli
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 05:11 pm: |
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My first response didn't show up so...
Greg, I really appreciate your help and the great photographs are a big plus.
Let me ask, can the shutter be safely triggered with the lens disassembled to this point, battery out?
Eli |
Nickon51
Tinkerer
Username: Nickon51
Post Number: 86
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 07:40 pm: |
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Yes it can be triggered. The shutter is not dismantled. All that has been done is remove the outer lens tube and the setting rings. After the last ring is removed you will get to the shutter case. Once this cover is removed things can go sproing!
Here you can see where the levers go down past the shutter mechanism to the links underneath.
Good Luck! |
Eli
Tinkerer
Username: Eli
Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 01:11 pm: |
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Greg, I just want to let you know that I've done the repair according to your instruction and it was a snap.
When I opened the lens up, one of the screws fell out onto the table and I found a second one ready to drop as well. The electrical lines had worked down to a lower level of the lens assembly but it does not appear that they are damaged.
The rings went right back to their positions and the reasembly was fairly smooth. I really only had a bit of bother keeping the wiring out of the way when putting on the top cover but other than that, everything mechanical works as it should. The front of the lens is tight now and I'll dig up a battery latter on to see if the meter is ok. Even if it is not working, I've still got a great rangefinder to use, thanks to your help.
Eli |
Nickon51
Tinkerer
Username: Nickon51
Post Number: 87
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 04:18 am: |
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Pleased to hear it, you'll enjoy shooting with it.
Cheers |
