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Harlee
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Username: Harlee

Post Number: 89
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, November 08, 2009 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've been shooting these Yashicas since 1970 when we lived in Okinawa, and for the past several years have fixed & refurbished them and sold a number of them in Ebay. I recently picked up one in really nice condition but DOA. I've resoldered the white lead to the battery chamber and now the diods light up, BUT, something is amiss that I haven't run into previously. Without the battery, it'll fire at the default shutter speed, but with the battery installed, the shutter opens and stays open until I wind the film winder. Changing the F stops doesn't make any difference. Is this a mechanical problem or an electrical problem? I've noticed that the shutter button travels the entire length but at the end of its travel, I have to exert a little more pressure before the shutter opens. That's why I'm wondering if one of the shutter rods needs to be shortened or lengthened. Would appreciate any info that would help me locate the problem.
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Harlee
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Username: Harlee

Post Number: 90
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, November 08, 2009 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Oh yes, I've noticed that the POD looks to have been replaced with a white plastic pad, but it looks as though the pad is a little thick. Could this be the culprit?
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Nickon51
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Username: Nickon51

Post Number: 112
Registered: 05-2008

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Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 04:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Have you a service manual for this camera. There is a set procedure to adjust the 2 rods in relation to the shutter release rod. It sounds as if the switch rod is out of sync with the shutter release rod.
Send me an email if you want the adjustment procedure.
Cheers
Greg
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Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee

Post Number: 91
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Greg, I tried something else on the Yashica and thought it might work but it didn't. The shutter still stays open until I advance the fim advance lever. If you can send me the adjustment procedure, I'm open to trying it. I don't have a service manual. my email address is:

[email protected]

Thanks for the info.
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Jac9f
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Username: Jac9f

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2009

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Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Guys,
I'm having the exact problem with mine,
I just replaced the POD this morning with the same results as above,
any guidance will be very appreciated
Thanks

(looking for the service manual online now)
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Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix

Post Number: 53
Registered: 11-2008

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Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yashica Electro 35 service manual is here.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/19302555/Yashica-Electro-35-Service-Manual
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Ethostech
Tinkerer
Username: Ethostech

Post Number: 144
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Just a little contribution for whatever it is worth.
Early models had a back-door release on the non-hinged end.
Later models adopted the more conventional "pull up the rewind crank" to open the back door.

The early models had a removeable fork at the cassette-end of the rewind crank shaft - and it was held by a screw cotter-oin.
In order to remove the top-plate the rewind knob has to to be first removed. Logic has it that the floating fork (as held by the screw cotter) must be removed. But don't waste effort because such logic is wrong. Just place a screwdriver across the fork and unscrew the film rewind knob.

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