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Classic Camera Repair » Archives-2006 » How to dissasemble the lens of Zeiss Ikon Werra 1 « Previous Next »

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SadBear

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Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi, can someone tell me how to dissasemble the lens of Zeiss Ikon Werra 1?
There seems to be some fungus between the glass of the lens, and I want to give it a clean.

But I have no clue how to dissasemble the lens, so here ask for help.

Thanks!
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Stuart Willis

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Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The lens is a four element Tessar in three groups. Therefore there are six air-surfaces - four of which are inside. The Werra 1 was produced with either a Prontor RVS shutter or a Sychro-Compur shutter. The accessibility of optics varies. Which shutter do you have?

With the shutter open on "B" and the iris at f2.8 you can remove the camera back as see through the lens. Can you determine just where is the fungus?
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SadBear

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Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi, Suart,Thanks!
On the lens it is said Prestor RVS , so I think it is what you said Prontor RVS shutte,right?

I think the fungus is on the front element of the lens, the inner side while see from the front-lens towards myself. So I think just open the front side of the lens is ok to clean the fungus. Would u tell me how to do that?

By the way, can u tell me the meanings of the characters on the bottom wheel-by which I can remove the back of the camera? There are X, M, V , R,C and a blact dot.
Thanks again!
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Winfried

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Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 04:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Prestor and Prontor shutters very probably are different things. The Prestor shutter is an east-german made (I have tinkered with a few east german shutters but sorry, no Prestor yet) while the Prontor shutters were used mainly on cameras manufactured for export.

X - mark for X-sync. Use this setting when using electronic flashes. You can use any shutter speed, preferably 1/100 (1/125).
M - mark for M-sync. Use this setting when using bulb flashes. At 1/30 they have their nominal guide number, it has to be derated for faster shutter speeds.
V - mark for self timer. Set the lever to this position if you want to use the self timer. Do not forget to reset it if you don't want to use the self timer. On later Prontor SVS shutters this lever resets automatically after releasing the shutter once.
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Tony Duell

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Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 04:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If this is like the interchangeable lens on some later Werras, the front elements are easy to remove.

First unscrew the name ring from around the front of the lens using 'A rubber tool' (as Thomas Tomosy would put it). With that out of the way, the front lens cell just unscrews out. IIRC, the front element itself is held in the cell by a retaining ring which also unscrews (everything is conventional, right hand thread).

If you need to get to the back element, it's a bit harder, you have to take the lens off the body and remove the shutter unit. I can talk you through that.

AFAIK no Werra ever had a Prontor shutter. The Prestor (with a 1/750 fastest speed) is the common one. Some early models had a Compur.

As regards the marks on the bottom plate, you are confusing the marks for 2 controls. The 'V, X, M' marks are for the little metal tab on the bottom of the lens barrel -- V is for self-timer, X is for X-synchronised flash (electronic flash), M is for M-synchronised flash (old-type bulbs). I think that you get X-sync if you use the self-timer.

The other marks refer to the black ring round the tripod bush. I forget exactly which means what, but one is the position to unlock the back (to load film), the one at the other end is the locked position for normal shooting, and the one between then ('R' ?) also has the back locked, but the sprocket is disengaged, this is for rewinding the film.
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SadBear

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Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 07:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thank you all!
Winfried, I think I was confused by the 2 different kins of shutter.

I tried the V on the bottom wheel, but there is no self-timer! So maybe the self-timer is broken or just not work.

Yes, my Werra 1 has a 1/750 as the fastest speed, but I am not sure if it is interchangeable lens or not. How can I know whether it is or not?
I will follow Tony's instruction first, and hope it will work.

Thanks again for all your kind help!
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Gary Turner

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Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I just did a Google search for Werra and there is a free manual available at the following website: http://yandr.50megs.com/carl/werra/werra.htm

Here's another site that explains how to use the Werra: http://www.mediajoy.com/en/cla_came/werra/index.html

Probably a lot more information via Internet search engine as well. Send me an email and I can copy and send you some other files on Werra.
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SadBear

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Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Gary, got yuor mails thanks!
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Stuart Willis

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Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 11:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sorry for my "finger-trouble" Sadbear.
I was indeed referring to the Prestor RVS Shutter, of course. It is just about the most accurate leaf shutter ever made but it is in fact two shutters in one. Instead of the usual convention of shutter blades opening and then reversing direction to close, those of the Prestor RVS are of an equilateral shape and they are rotary. Because of this design the shutter blades rotate and open the film-plane during the shutter cocking process. To prevent exposure of the film during shutter cocking there is a second set of blades behind th rear lens element.

I have stripped and rebuilt several Prontor RVS Werra's but I warn you it is a cow of a job.
Removal of the lens block from the camera chassis is by removal of a slotted ring as concentric with and outside the lens rear element. But even with an especially made tubular tool you may not be able to loosen it because of galvanic action corrosion. The slotted ring is of brass into aluminium. Cannot imagine why the manufacturer configured such a cuckooland metallurgy - but it is so.

Given that yours is a Werra 1 model, you can remove the front lens element from the front - so you should be spared complicated excursions.
You will have to set up the focus when reinstalling, of course.
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Tony Duell

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Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2006 - 04:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Odd... I've found Werras to be about the easiest cameras ever to work on.

I get the shutter module out as follows :

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the studs in the strap lugs (don't loose the plastic washers!), then ease the top up a bit, unscrew the eyepiece, and take the top off. Remove the washers from the shutter release pushrod.

If there's an internal exposure meter, take it out -- 2 screws from the right hand side. Since the pointer is optically projected into the viewfinder, and since the camera controls move one of the prisms in the projection system, there are no linkages to the meter, or anything like that.

Take out the viewfinder/rangefinder optical block. Just 2 screws again. Note how the linkages couple, but there are no 'gotchas' really. If there's no meter or rangefinder, there aren't any linkages!

Take out the film gate -- 4 obvious screws.

Undo the retaining ring round the back of the shutter, inside the camera. It will be tight, but I've never really had a problem moving it. Undo the 4 screws near the ring inside the camera. and lift the body off the lens barrel.

On the back of the lens barrel, take off the tiny screws holding the V/X/M lever in place (this is the worst part of the job!). Take off the winding/cocking ring, the 3 screws on the backplate of the barrel, then lift out the shutter unit.

IIRC, the barrel splits into 2 sections with 3 or 4 more screws to remove the control rings. Watch out for springs here, particularly on models with an internal meter.

A few other general points.

AFAIK on all Werras, at least all Werras with a Prestor shutter, the shutter is behind, not between, the lens elements. Not the optically best place for it, but it makes dismantling a little easier.

There should be no need to re-set the focus if you remove the front lens cell from the Tessar lens (or any other Werra lens for that matter). You don't dismantle the focusing mount, the cell unscrews from the moving part of the mount. And AFAIK you can do this on all Werras.

The capping shutter -- the set of blades behind the main shutter that prevent the film from being fogged when you wind the camera -- often stick. I've picked up many Werras claimed to have a 'jammed shutter' where this is the problem. The main blades generally work properly.

The fact that the Prestor shutter opens twice per cycle (for exposure, and then again when the shutter is would) was made use of in an SLR called the Pentina. It uses a modified Prestor shutter, the open-during-wind feature is used to allow through-the-lens viewing.
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SadBear

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Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2006 - 05:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks to you all!

I remove the front lens element from the front-following Tony's advice, by using rubber- a piece of rubber of the inner tyre of bicycle.

And I clear the fungus, now the lens seems much clear!

But the self-timer is not functional yet, and I do not know what the C on the bttom wheel means. I can open the back of the camera while the arrow on the wheel is set to C(I initially supposed it stands for Close, but seemed to be wrong now), and while close & locked, the arrow could not be set to V. It is really a puzzle!

I owe thanks to all of you, who give all the advices & answers here. Thanks again!
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Krg

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Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 02:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello, I'm a French Werra collector, see:
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/krg/werra/werra.htm
(you can tanslate online by http://babel.altavista.com/tr)
I have lauched a Werra discussion group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WerraGroup/
(you can write either French/English/German)

I have uploaded the Werra "Reparatur Anleitung" (Service manual) on a web server. They are password protected, as my other files to download, the password is: "Pentax"
http://krgdoc2.site.voila.fr/werra/ra_werra1.pdf
http://krgdoc2.site.voila.fr/werra/ra_werra2.pdf
http://krgdoc2.site.voila.fr/werra/ra_werra3.pdf
http://krgdoc2.site.voila.fr/werra/ra_werra4.pdf
http://krgdoc2.site.voila.fr/werra/ra_werramat.pdf

Unfortunately the files don't describe lens and shutter service and aren in German.

Note: I'm searching a translation in French or English ! :o))

Michel

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