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George Welcher

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Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi. I have used Pliobond frequently to reglue camera coverings (leatherette, etc.) and sometimes for other gluing jobs like light seals using black cotton yarn. The problem is the glue smell seems to hang around indefinately. I have a Miranda Sensorex on which I reglued the leatherette to the camera back, over a year ago. The first thing I notice when I put it to my eye is the unmistakable Piobond smell. Is there a way to cure the stuff so it doesn't stink, or other treatment to make it go away?
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David Ritchie

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Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Of the materials which go into an adhesive like Pliobond, the solvent is the thing that exhibits the most odor. Therefore, it will just take time for all of the solvent to dissipate. Are you allowing the adhesive to dry on both surfaces before assembly? A lot of solvent could be trapped if not. Normally, around 30 minutes is allowed for drying each surface before assembly depending upon temp and humidity. Be aware that once the dried surfaces touch, they cannot be moved.
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George Welcher

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Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks David. I think the drying time is the issue, since I've only been giving it about 10 minutes to dry. Should have hung on to the info sheet that came with it. A blatant case of RFM! Not looking forward to pulling the leatherette off the Miranda again, though.

I do recall reading that if you apply a little isopropyl to one of the dried glue surfaces, you have a few minutes window in which to position the pieces together.
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

One of the suppliers of pre-cut, self stick coverings recommends the isopropyl route in his instruction sheet. I find that water with the smallest amount of wetting agent works equally as well for most contact type adhesives.

With most naturally dyed and finished leathers you can join 'wet on wet'. The solvent will evaporate through the leather very quickly. However this is not true of the modern spray coated leathers, not only does the finish prevent the evaporation but the solvent can attack the finish. This can lead to premature cracking or an actual softening of the finish.

Leatherette exhibits the same properties, in that the surface finish hinders the evaporation of the solvent. Needless to say, modern vinyls are mostly impervious to the solvents used.
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George Welcher

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Posted on Saturday, March 04, 2006 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I just did a quick fix on my Canon QL17; re-attach one of the battery contacts to the battery compartment. First attempt at 30 min drying time failed as adhesion was poor. Cleaned off the mess with isopropyl, did alittle more surface prep this time with fine emery cloth, and a more liberal application of pliobond. Waited 15 min and clamped with a clothes peg. Much better.

What does this mean? Hard to say -- too many variables changed. But I can probably live with the smell if the trade off is good adhesion. It makes some sense that a better bond might develop if both surfacs are still tacky.
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M Currie

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Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 09:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've never much liked contact cement for this job, because it's so difficult to get apart and to clean up if you have to do the job twice. For camera leather and the like, I've had good luck with craft glue. So far the best is something called "Aleene's Original Tacky Glue" wich I found at a Joanne fabric store. It's like white glue but it dries flexible, and it has good initial adhesion. Since it isn't a contact cement it allows a little adjustment, but it's sticky enough that you don't need to clamp or hold for long. It's water soluble, at least for cleanup. So far I've found it holds up well even in heavy use, but it isn't so tenacious that you can't peel the leather off again for another repair.
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George Welcher

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Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

That sounds promising. I'll check the craft stores in Toronto.

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