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Joel Raymond

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Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi

I would liek to replace the bellow on my pocket kodak, but they are riveted to the lens mount.

Has anyone succesfuly replaced rivots on a pocket camera? Can you suggest what tools I need.

Thanks

JR
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don

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Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00EqEN&tag=
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Peter Wallage

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Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 03:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Joel,
I have replaced rivets on quite a few cameras, such as the bellows to lens panel on some Kodaks and on folders where I have put new covering on the back which has an exposure guide plate riveted on.

I drill the old rivets out - not with a very small drill but with one larger than the rivet so that it takes off the head. The shank can then be drifted oiut with a small punch with the other end of the rivet held over a hole in a steel plate to support whetever it's holding.

For replacement rivets I use either brass or aluminium. Where the heads show I have sometimes had to reshape them with a small file and rubbing-down paper with the rivet held in a drill chuck which I turn by hand.

Where the parts being riveted are delicate I usually drill down the middle of the rivet a short distance after cutting it to length. This makes spreading the end easier.

For replacing the rivet the head needs to be supported on a stake. I use a small block of steel or the end of a steel rod about half and inch diameter held in the vice. I first spread the drilled end of the rivet using a countersink punch and then finish off with a small ball-pein hammer. Where the part is held by more than one rivet I go round each spreading the end to make sure everything is lined up before finishing off with the ball-pein hammer.

Hope this helps.

Peter
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Peter,

Any good model engineering supply company will have rivet 'sets' in various head forms. However the ones for the smaller diameters are normally of the mushroom headed form. The use of these saves you the the pain of the ball-pein - so to speak.

I have found that for brass or alloy rivets; if I mount the 'sets' in a small lever operated toggle press, forming tight joints with properly formed rivet heads is very easy. The nice thing about using the press is that you can easily and correctly support the work piece. As long as you cut the rivet (squarely) to the correct length, there is no need to counter drill the rivet shank.

My press is of Chinese/far Eastern origin, it cost about £20 at a car boot sale. If you have a big bench drill you can use this for the odd repair - this was my chosen method until acquiring the press.

Glenn.

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