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Paolo Amedeo
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 08:52 am: | 
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I have a Leicaflex SL that need some adjustment for the lightmeter: does anybody knows what the various trimmers (=variable resistors) act on? Any tip on how to approach in the best way the calibration of the lightmeter?
Thanks for your help!
Paolo |
David Ritchie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 03:12 pm: |
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Paolo..As you probably know this camera was designed to use a 1.35V battery. Substitution of a 1.5V battery will give incorrect readings unless you recalibrate the meter to correct for the higher voltage. Is this what you are trying to do? This info will help anyone that can help you. There are devices available which allow the use of 1.5V batteries and may be the way to go if this is your objective.Good luck |
Paolo Amedeo
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 09:12 pm: |
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Hi David,
Yes, part of the problem is adjusting the circuit to work with the new batteries but another side is a real calibration of the circuit itself, since it underexposes significantly, right now, even when powered at 1.35 V.
Thanks!
Paolo |
David Ritchie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 08:48 am: |
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You may want to contact an ebay seller to see if they can help. They are in the UK and currently have a posting #7620086347. They do not list the Leicaflex in this posting, but it doesn't hurt to ask if you are interested. |
Jan Dvorak
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 03:21 pm: |
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Paolo,
I found this information on the Photo Net. The original author is a well known wildlife photographer Doug Herr, who uses the SL's extensively in his work. He re-calibrated all his Leicaflex SL cameras for 1.5V Silver Oxide type 625 batteries.
Here are Doug's instructions:
The calibration can be done at home if you have a fairly small screwdriver and a reference meter. I'm using my R8 as the reference.
Behind the strip of leatherette on the front of the prism housing are three access holes for the meter's trim pots. I'll have to review my manual this evening, but one of the pots is to calibrate the battery test, another is for the high meter range and the third is for the low range. There's some interaction between the high- and low-range pots so it will take a few adjustment iterations.
The procedure is to first be sure the film speed cam is adjusted properly: at 12 ASA and no lens on the camera the meter's follow loop should move its full range as you change shutter speeds from B to 1/2000 sec. You're in the right ballpark if the follow loop is horizontal at 1/60 sec. The film speed cam is under the film speed dial. To adjust this cam, remove the rewind crank by backing its setscrew out about one or 1.5 turns and unscewing it from its shaft. Using a spanner, remove the nut under the rewind crank. At this point the film speed dial will come out very easily and you don't want it to do that! Be sure you keep it in place, don't let it pop up. It's not a disaster if it comes out but it can be much more hassle to re-install it.
The cam is held in place with a ring which is loosened with a spanner. Once the ring is slightly loose you can turn the cam to adjust the follow loop. Tighten the ring, put the spanner nut back on, and re-install the rewind crank.
Next, calibrate the battery test. IIRC the battery test pot is on the film-advance end of the front of the prism. Adjust so that the needle points to the lower dot in the viewfinder when you press the battery test button. Next you adjust the high range, then the low range, to match your reference meter. Adjusting the low range will influence the high range, so go back to the high range pot and re-adjust, then re-adjust the low range again. Repeat until adjustments are negligible. Re-attach the leatherette strip with Pliobond or rubber cement. |
Paolo Amedeo
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 08:51 pm: |
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Perfect!
Thanks a lot!!!
Paolo |
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