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Ron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 30, 2006 - 04:20 pm: | 
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As I am having problems with the shutter (doesn't always close, the B doesn't work and the lever can't get really all the way to 1/300s setting) I want to open it up.
I already had the whole front panel off, just hold back by something in one end. I think that was the connection with the parallax indication in the viewfinder. I hope I put that back together ok: it wasn't easy to get those two little plates back in there.
Now I have come so far to remove the five screws that hold the cover around the lenses (in which also the levers for aperture and time are sitting). However, even though I removed the taking lens (having the shutter naked), I can't get the cover away as the release lever is in the way. I have removed the knob on it, so it is free to go through the slit, but everything is in the way.
Is there some specific way to take it off? I don't dare to force it...
Thanks,
Ron |
Ed
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 30, 2006 - 04:58 pm: |
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Try lifting at the top of cover panel and sliding it toward the bottom of the cocking lever. |
RL
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 31, 2006 - 12:25 am: |
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Ron,
Lift at the top and move the cover over to the side. I cannot remember for sure, but i think on the righthand side of the bottom of the cover the edge is rounded off and it allows you to clear the lever without forcing it. It should come off easily.
I found it helps when the shutter is cocked so the lever moves freely.
you should not force it, if you bend the lever it will rub on the cover after reassembly. |
Ron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 31, 2006 - 06:28 pm: |
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Thanks, I got it off. I also got the shutter cover off, which was kind of scary, as the shutter didn't really function anymore even when the lid wasn't off completely. But when reassembled it is working as it was before again... almost.
What can be said about the B and T settings? Is it normal for the Compur that it can't be cocked there? I noticed that it is possible to open the leaves with a cable release when on B or T (I am not sure which one it is on), but my shutter doesn't want to close then. Maybe I should lubricate some parts. I noticed there is grease on the shutter leaves, but I am not sure wether that is a good thing. For the Kodak Stereo Camera leaf shutter I read that the lubricant should be dry graphite? And also on the articles on this site there is mentioning of not applying lubricants to shutter leaves and curtains.
There is also a big spring sitting close to the release lever. It does not actuate anything it seems. From some Compur descriptions it could be the boost spring, but as this Compur only goes to 1/300s I doubt wether there is a boost spring... isn't that for 1/500s? |
Wayne
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 31, 2006 - 09:50 pm: |
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Ron
A few answers... Yes, B & T work without cocking the shutter. Shutter leaves should be absolutely clean. The spring you can see is probably the booster spring for the highest speed. When you turn the selector ring to 1/300 you should be able to see how it's compressed at that speed.
Cheers
Wayne |
Ron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 01, 2006 - 01:36 am: |
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That is right, when I turn the ring all the way to 1/300 the spring gets turned and under tension. That explains why it is always so difficult to set it to that high speed. It can't be cocked either there, so I'll inspect that later.
Shutter leaves are not clean at all. I hope I can get those cleaned ;)
Thanks for this info: this is a great forum. I learned a lot about how this kind of camera works on the inside, and I am impressed too with all these ingenious mechanisms.
Ron |
RL
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 01, 2006 - 02:38 am: |
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Ron,
You can only set the 1/300 speed before cocking the shutter. Once the shutter is cocked you cannot select 1/300 and can only compensate by using a more closed aperture to go with a slower speed(or waste the frame, so you can set the speed before cocking the shutter)
Try cleaning the shutterblades with a Q-tip and lighter fluid, use the lighterfluid sparingly so it does not go all over the place. If you use too much it can take several days to fully evaporate. |
Ron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 03:33 am: |
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I applied some lighter fluid to it, and that took some of the lubricant away. I don't think everything is gone, there is still wet spots, but that could also be the Ronsonol, if it takes long to dry completely. I guess I should not put the lenses back on directly then, otherwise it just damps on them. There must also still be lubricant in the parts where I can't reach with the Q-tip. Under the edge of the diaphragm and inside the shutter, where the blades are when opened.
Now the blades open and close very well: I do not see them stuck open anymore, even though my cleaning might have been done better.
The B setting still shows trouble though: when putting it on B I need to trigger twice or three times before the shutter opens. Before that it does not respond, but the release is not stuck either. Once it has opened, it can be opened and closed as much as you like. When I change the speed, and then put it back on B again (without firing the shutter at all or even cocking it) the problem returns: need to trigger twice or three times and first then it opens. What could that be? It sounds to me like there is some lever not being grabbed?
Also: a time in the middle seems quite slower then the others. I think it is the 1/30 (don't have the numbers at hand). Could it be that I do not have the two top rings sitting correctly on it?
But perhaps the worst is that the lever to release is usually stuck after firing the shutter. It doesn't return by itself, and then one can't cock again. Any ideas on this one? I certainly don't hope that I ruined something ;) My only idea is that this maybe doesn't happen when the whole complex is again in the cover, and that the release button is simply stopped, so it doesn't over trigger the lever... but that is an idle hope ;)
Thanks,
Ron |
RL
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 05:15 am: |
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Ron,
Mine has the 1/500 shutter, on that there are marks on the cover for the times, are you sure there are no marks on the cover? I need to cock the shutter for B to work so I cannot help you with that.
On mine the cocking ring ratchet needs to grab the wheel on the first tooth otherwise it will not cock the shutter, maybe you need to put the ring on one tooth over. |
Ron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 02:38 pm: |
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Yes there are marks on the edge (without numbers). It is easy to go to the extreme (the B/T) and then to adjust the cover to have the dot there. It falls quite into place, but it doesn't seem important.
I found out why the middle speeds were off. I noticed that there is a little knob that gets pulled inwards when cocking. The timing ring adjusts its position, the more inward it is, the longer the time, as it travels back outwards during exposure. But then there were two positions for the ring. With increasing time, the knob would be pushed further inwards, then back again, and then with even longer times further inwards again. But for the second set there is another knob that needs to be kept in an outer position. This last knob was bend down a bit (due to my previous attempts to close the cover) and went under the timing ring during exposure. So I had two sets of long times and no real short times. But that works fine again.
Now I still do not know why the release lever doesn't go back after triggering it. I fiddled a bit with the spring attached to it, and that seemed to work, but not for long. So perhaps it is a friction/tension problem in that place. At least it is not solved by putting the cover on again.
Roelof, I am not sure about what your last remark with the one tooth over is about. I am not sure my shutter has that?
Regards,
Ron |
RL
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 03, 2006 - 03:02 am: |
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Ron,
your shutter is cocking properly so the engagement of the ratchet and the wheel should be fine.
I think the cocking ring on yours might be slightly bent at the lever, this happened to me when I got impatient and took the fascia off slightly forcing the lever, thereby ovalizing it ever so slightly, so it would not return freely.The fascia should go on or come off without forcing the lever at all.
You might have to experiment with very, very, very slightly bending (not even bending, more like tensioning)the lever and see whether that allows the ring to move freely.It should not need much to allow it to move freely. |
Ron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 03, 2006 - 01:16 pm: |
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I looked at the ring but it seemed ok. The lever was also not touching the housing and speed ring, so that could not be it either. I was affraid I pressed it down to much when putting the speed ring in its place. There are so many elements that need to sit right then: the clockwork, the other element in the clockwork that selects the two speed ranges (as far as I understand), then the lever which is spring loaded, and now I found this last element which is indicated on this picture.
It was actually not sitting straight and it was for certain speeds blocking the whole mechanism. I could see that at the speeds where the lever returned, this pin was free, but as soon as the pin touched the rest, then the lever would be blocked. I have pushed it a bit more upright again, and things seem fine now.
I think this element is in some way also related to the B problems, as for B and T it gets moved inward by the speed ring.
Things are so sensitive. Fractions of millimeters displaced and the mechanism gets problems. I also repaired an Ensign guillotine shutter, where there was an element just slightly misplaced, and then the B setting would not work on it. You get some respect for these mechanisms in this way ;)
Ron |
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