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Message |
    
Bengi
Tinkerer
Username: Bengi
Post Number: 8
Registered: 11-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 12:39 pm: | 
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The shutter is fine, but no led, no nothing. I removed top and botttom covers and all small wires seems connected. Is there any specific part to look at? Capacitors or else?
Thanks,
Ben |
Hovaness
Tinkerer
Username: Hovaness
Post Number: 20
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 02:12 pm: |
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Check for correct voltage from the battery compartment to the flex circuit. |
Bengi
Tinkerer
Username: Bengi
Post Number: 9
Registered: 11-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 01:19 am: |
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It is actually an ME_F, so 6 volts. BTW: I tested the two wires indicated in the following pictures (assuming the red is + and the blue is -) and I got 6 volts. Looking carefully there are some differences between this flex and the ME Super one.
Advices?
Ben |
Bengi
Tinkerer
Username: Bengi
Post Number: 10
Registered: 11-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 01:21 am: |
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This is the picture:
ME F
http://homepage.mac.com/bengi/files/ME_F.jpg
ME Super
http://homepage.mac.com/bengi/files/mesuper.jpg |
Hovaness
Tinkerer
Username: Hovaness
Post Number: 21
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 15, 2006 - 08:28 pm: |
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The next thing to check is voltage at the shutter release switch. If you examine the shutter release mechanism, you will see the contacts that close when the release is pressed. This is what turns on the meter circuitry. If this switch is OK, then you should check various test points on the flex circuit, including the outputs to the LED array.
Unfortunately, if you have a bad component on the flex circuit, it is not only hard to replace the flex, but there were so many changes to the electronics in the ME/ME Super family that it is difficult to find a proper replacement.
At some point, it becomes cheaper to spend $50 on eBay for a working Pentax body. |
Bengi
Tinkerer
Username: Bengi
Post Number: 12
Registered: 11-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 12:45 am: |
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Thanks Hovaness, what you say is corect: "At some point, it becomes cheaper to spend $50 on eBay for a working Pentax body."
That's the problem! This reimind me an older thread: https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/6790/6817.html?1161042195 - "Am I a collector or ... am I?".
I keep buying busted cameras for parts and then I try to fix them: it's a never ending story! |
Hovaness
Tinkerer
Username: Hovaness
Post Number: 22
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 07:37 pm: |
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In my opinion, the most satisfying cameras to restore are the Pentax MX, Konica T3 and the Minolta SRT series. The electronics are simple and repairable, and it is relatively easy to recalibrate the meters (T3 and SRT) to work with silver cells. The electronic Pentax cameras have tightly packed mechanicals, and the circuitry is devilishly complicated. |
Bengi
Tinkerer
Username: Bengi
Post Number: 14
Registered: 11-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 08:28 am: |
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I have just finished to replace seals in my MX, so I profitted by the occasion to remove the top cover. It is metal, while in the other M series (including the very first MEs) it is plastic.
BTW the interios looks quite similar to the ME Super except for a simpler flex (no CPU on it).
Are you sure it is really a nightmare to try to replace the flex in the ME Super? Will keep you posted,
Ben |
