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Andrew Kalman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 04, 2005 - 12:55 am: | 
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Hello.
I have a manual-focus 200mm f/2 (AI-S, 2nd of three generations of the MF 200 f/2, takes 122mm filters).
I would like to remove the hood so that I can "thicken up" the felt-like paper on the inside of the hood, so that there is more friction when the hood is slid and turned into its locking position.
Trouble is, I can't figure out how to get the hood off. Can anyone help?
Thanks,
--Andrew |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 04, 2005 - 10:11 am: |
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Andrew,
I am sure somebody will tell you exactly how to remove the hood locking/stop ring on your particular lens. However I have tightened up various inbuilt hoods on Canon FD lenses and others, by just sliding a piece of cartridge paper or card of the required thickness between lens body and hood. Sometimes it needs a complete circumferential piece and on others strips placed at 12, 3, 6, 9 or 12, 4, 8 o'clock will do the trick. The paper/card has always stayed in place on my lenses, which are used quite extensively.
I use black paper or card but as you are not able to see the dodge, I do not think it really matters.
If the gap is especially large you could use black flock paper, which is sold for modelling purposes (trains, dolls houses etc).
Glenn. |
Andrew Kalman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2005 - 11:15 pm: |
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Hi Glenn.
Well, no one has told me yet how to do it ... 
I tried by slipping three lengths of black electrical tape in the appropriate places. It worked for a while, but as I suspected, the tape isn't stiff enough, and has now moved (and probably got all bent out of shape) to the point where it's an impediment to moving the shade. So the tape needs to come out (it's impossible to see it in the crevasses where it was installed) -- hence my need for removing the hood as a whole.
Thanks,
--Andrew |
Jon Goodman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 08:04 am: |
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I'm not familiar with this particular lens, however many lenses with built-in hoods have an outer collar (the retaining collar for the hood) which simply unscrews. Once unscrewed, the hood can be slipped off. Normally the material used for damping the hood was 1mm self-adhesive (micro weave) velvet...the same material I've had made to sell in my light seal kits. In a few instances, I've noticed the outer collar is held to the lens body with three or four small headless screws, and in one, I noticed the outer collar screwed on but was locked in place with a single small headless screw (grubscrew). Sorry I can't be more specific, but as I said, I haven't seen this lens.
Jon |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 06:53 pm: |
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Andrew,
Ah yes, the only way to bodge the job is to use card or thick cartridge paper.It must be inherently stiff so that it does not jam up the proceedings. Of course it is nice to do it the proper way using Jon's self adhesive velvet, if as you say the retaining ring will come off.
I did once manage to fish out some half stuck velvet by cutting a 'hook' from a piece of plastic food container. Some ham fisted idiot had broken the slots in the grubscrews and it would have been a major drill out/retap job.
Glenn |
Andrew Kalman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 10:12 pm: |
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Glenn, Jon:
Well, I removed the front rubber protective ring from the hood, and the ribbed circumfrential rubber ring, but the lens has yet to reveal its secrets ... those two rubbder rings fit tightly and are secured with a bit of contact cement.
There are three sets of two little screws under the ribbed ring, but it's not clear what -- if anything -- they attach to. They're not stop screws (there are two non-removable pins for that). Hmmm.
With the six little screws out and the front "bumper" off, there's a little more play in the hood vs. the body, and I was able to remove my two strips of electrical tape still in place, as well as the third, which had gotten mangled and was causing the problems.
Unfortunately the hood still won't come off. There is a small lock screw on the lens body that I was able to easily remove, and I suspect that it locks the outer "big" barrel to the rest of the lens, but so far said barrel has resisted coming off, and I'm wary of forcing it. The barrel has the bayonet that the hood locks into. I suspect the lens is assembled by placing the hood onto the outer barrel, and then screwing the outer barrel onto the rest of the lens. When the outer barrel is in place, a lip on the lens prevents the hood from falling off "backwards" (towards the lens flange).
Without getting the hood off there just isn't enough room to R&R the existing velvet-like paper ... 
--Andrew |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2005 - 05:08 pm: |
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Andrew,
Yes on lenses I have come across with that lock screw, the outer barrel then unscrews.However these were not expensive lenses.
Some questions;
The 6 little screws,when hood locked in bayonet are they visible on inside of hood,or does the velvet paper hide them?
If velvet hides them do they in fact screw down onto a split ring or metal strips that locate and hold hood firm when retracted?
Does the 122mm filter screw into the end of the aforementioned barrel or is there another ring screwed onto the end of lens?I have Japanese Travenar 200mm FD fit where barrel similar to yours,locates hood (just push/pull)but you have to unscrew the filter mount after removing name ring to get outer barrel off.On first glance it appears that barrel should just screw off!
Sorry I cannot be of any useful help.My fountain of Nikon knowledge is a self confessed wideangle nut.He says he needs medication to use a 135mm,so your 200mm is completely alien!!
Glenn |
Andrew Kalman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2005 - 07:37 pm: |
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Hi Glen.
The lens in question is the third one shown on this page: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/180200mmnikkor/200mma.htm
To remove the six little screws, one removes the thin narrow ribbed rubber ring (next to the white dot) that goes around the hood, and then the screw heads are visible. Prior to removing them I figured they held some pieces that are part of the bayonet, etc. But nothing came off after removing them, so I think that even if they do hold something in place, that something is also glued to the hood and is installed / removed when the hood is free. IOW, removing them seemed to make absolutely no difference. Weird.
The two non-removable pins limit the rotation of the hood to around 60 degrees (part of the bayonet action).
As best I can tell, the outer forward tube / barrel is a single piece, and it is a monolithic part to which the 122mm filter is attached.
I recently took my 1970's-vintage 500mm f/5 Reflex-Nikkor apart for cleaning. It also takes 122mm filers, and it had a single lock screw that held the entire "main tube" to the "base". But it came off very easily, so that's why I'm worried about forcing this 200 f/2 lens. You can just see the screwhole (at roughly 12 o'clock on the body) in the picture -- it's that smooth black dot.
--Andrew |
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