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Neil A

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Posted on Sunday, July 10, 2005 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello

After my uncle dropped my A1 (it was either the camera or my niece, who was on his other arm), it is impossible to turn the ASA dial.

It seems to have taken the shock of the impact and it bent upwards. I think I can straighten it out myself, but I can't get it off.

The rewind lever is off, but how do I take off the dial itself?

I read that on an AE1 the dial should be set to 3200 ASA and then it turns 90° to simply lift off.

Is it the same mthod on the A1 or is the reason I can't get it off because it is bent?

Thanks for any help.

Neil
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Sunday, July 10, 2005 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Neil,

You have to remove the circlip that you can now see.Remove clip and any shim washers.
Set exposure compensation to zero and set ASA to a value that you can remember,say 400.Then place the little chrome locking tag opposite the strap lug by turning dial.Lift off complete dial.If you cannot set an ASA value,just remember the one already set.

When dial is off take care not to move the contacts etc that are exposed.

Replacement is just reverse,but in your case set ASA to above value on the removed dial first.This assumes that you have had to strip the dial right down to straighten it.Align the tag opposite the lug and the dial should drop into place.If contacts were moved,a slight bit of fiddling is required to seat dial.

There is a start from scratch method that involves setting to 3200ASA on reassembly.This is used when the actual value insert comes unglued.You will find it on this page;

http://users.adelphia.net/~winlowe/ADE.html

If your dial is damaged,contact me with your address.I will send you one for reimbursement of the postage costs,if you need replacement.

Glenn
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NeilA

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Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Glenn,

I posted a reply to your helpful message a couple of weeks ago, just before i went on holiday... It doesn't seem to have registered on the forum.

I'll start again then: it appears that the actual tube that the dial slots onto is bent - a worse case than I at first thought. This tube is virtually impossible to bend back into place, even though it's out by only a few degrees.

I can't see how this tube can be replaced - it looks as if it is part of the body? Do you know if it is possible to replace this component and if so where I get my hands on one?

Thanks again for all your help.

Neil
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Neil,
Yes it can be replaced and I have the piece in question,but never having actually removed this part I will have to look at a scrap body.You can have it for the cost of postage.It is 04.30 in morning and I am about to get some sleep,but when I have come round later I will remove same from one of my parts bodies and then give you detailed instructions-should you need it.As the switch beneath the ASA dial can be adjusted, it may be better if I sent you the complete assembly of parts.If the switch is damaged and you only replace the wiper you have to set up the assembly.Replacing the whole switch with a working one has meant I have never had to calibrate-if you see what I mean.

I have a body that was working until the owner wrecked the shutter by spraying oil onto the mirror damper to cure squeak!So the pivot tube and switch should be OK.One question,how detailed do the instructions have to be?It is not very complicated at that end of the camera,so if you got the top off you should be OK at removing rest of bits.The Canon A1 repair manual is freely available,so you should be able to follow that.

Go to www.canonfd.com/choose.htm and look in manual section.

Glenn
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Monday, July 25, 2005 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Neil,
Just had a good look at the problem;there may be a quick fix if the bend is not to great and nothing else was damaged.I have just proved that it is possible to bend the tube back,so here is method.
Remove rear door and tape a piece of strong cardboard over the film gate.
Push the rewind spindle out downwards into body,I assume that rewind knob has been removed.
Now get a length of steel rod that is a good fit in the tube-7/32 inch diam, 8 or 9 inches long.If you cannot find a piece of steel rod a good quality 7/32 long series drill bit will do at a pinch.Use the shank and wrap masking tape round the drill flutes.
Place rod in tube,it will come to rest on the spring clip that retains the rewind spindle.
Carefully ease the tube into a vertical position.
Reassemble the camera.Note that you cannot just push the rewind spindle back up the tube.The leg of the clip is in the way.Removing spring clip can be fiddly.I just hold the spindle against the clip leg and using a fine jewellers screwdriver inserted in top of tube,ease the leg to the outside of tube.This allows the spindle to slip in.You will see the snag if you look down the tube before you insert spindle.

If you want to try the above but have trouble finding the steel rod,I can turn you up a 'tool' to do the job and post it on.Let me know what you want to do.

I have a pristine tube/spindle/clip assembly should you need same.I also have the 'switch' bits,however these are not a 'set' off a single camera and you may find that you have to go through the full set up proceedure.There is an ASA dial if yours is damaged.

How you proceed is up to you,but attempting to straighten the tube will not cause any more damage to the camera and must be worth a try.However that is easy for me to say as I have not seen the damage.

Glenn
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NeilA

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Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 02:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Glenn,

Thanks for the advice. A screwdriver with a plastic-coated shaft was used to straighten the tube back in to place. I found that infact the circuitry underneath moved with it too, or atleast the transparent plastic cover.

It seemed unnatural applying so much force to such a delicate object (even though the A1 is a tank of a camera) and felt it could break at any moment. I hope I did not damage that circuitry.

I will test the camera and let you know if I will be needing those spare parts...!

Also, unfortunately, when I closed the back after taking out the spindle the other week, my piece of cardboard wasn't thick enough and yes, ofcourse, the door snapped fully shut. Is there a way I can open it from under the top plate?

Thanks again for all your help and time.

Neil
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Neil,

Yes it is possible but I will have to look at a body just to tell you what's what.Basically underneath where you have been straightening,at end of body there is a piece of silver metal about 1/2 ins x 3/8 ins. It just rests on top of the main body casting.This is the short leg of the L shaped door catch.You need to lever it up and the door will open.

I will check properly this evening and come back to you.

Glenn
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NeilA

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Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Glenn,

I just realised that when I was straightening the tube, its thin top lip has deformed, meaning that it is no longer perfectly round. Obviously, the ASA dial no longer slots on as easily or freely.

This is typical of my attempts to repair cameras - it starts out as a simple matter of bending back a small piece of metal and ends in a stripped-down mess and tiny screws strewn all over my desk!

It's looking like a right mess now!

Infact, I can't even get the top plate off properly. Film rewind and advance levers are off, but how do I unscrew the AV dial? My friction screwdriver doesn't seem to be working because of the shutter relase and my fears of caving in the electromagnetics beneath it.

I'll keep trying til later on, when maybe you can bail me out. Again.

Thanks for your time and your patience (mine is slowly slipping away!).

Neil
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Neil,
Search for 'Canon A Series Shutter Squeek',type in exactly as I have written.See my post of 8 May for A1 top removal.

You have to remove the shutter button assembly.I use a flexi clamp, but before I got a set of those I got a small pair of pipe pliers and filed the serrations off the jaws.You just grip the outer rim of the release and remove anti clockwise.

Will look at that door latch in a while and be back,but at the moment my Spaniels are about to drag me out of the house!

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