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WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 - 04:29 am: | 
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I need some profound help to find a way to remove the rear lens group of a Lynx 14 (have never before encountered this problem): I gues some goo from the deteriorated light seal around the rear end of the lens has entered the thread, the thing seems like being riveted to the lens barrel. I have tried oil, solvent fluid and heat and have just ruined the backyard special self-made Yashica tool I usually use for uncrewing. Does anybody have an idea what else to try ? |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 11:26 am: |
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What first seemed a hopeless case (another one for the heap) has turned into a success: I have the Lynx back together again in almost perfect condition. First I made a new tool from more solid material, grinded it to the right size, and it was then easy to unscrew not only the rear lens group, but also the ring nut that keeps the shutter in the lens barrel/front plate of the camera. All this had become necessary to disassemble because I, when cleaning the aperture blades from both sides, had somehow managed to unhook one of the blades from its guiding rails. Can you feel the pain that crept along my spine when I realised this? I thought to myself how can one be so stupid to put too much pressure on the delicate blades? Rearrangement is possible, of course, but requires a complete knockdown of the camera, as the aperture mechanism is located deep down in the shutter housing close to the shutter blades that easily fall out if you open the shutter, but this time, before I started dismantling the array, I had put a round piece of strong (but easily removable) selfadhesive tape on the shutter blades' front side to keep them safely on their pins. It worked, so that after reinstalling the five aperture blades with the help of a tiny drop of grease on each of the blades (it has to be washed out when repositioning is finished, that is before you put everything in their places again) it was not too difficult to get the camera back to working condition again.
From experience I know how important it is to sort out and keep separate differently sized screws, exposure meter wipers, potentiometer strips, rings and the like in a special tray (I use one that once was a chocolate box) and put down on paper where these parts go and also take notes of the many different steps for reassembly, otherwise - that is to say if you do no longer remember the right order - this will be a somewhat stressful procedure.
When working on a camera, take my advice, be patient, think twice before you do something, don't force anything. Start again on the next day, if you are stuck. Of course your knowledge and understanding will increase. Two years ago I was afraid I would never be able to repair the self-timer of a Ricoh 500, now I have brought back to life Yashicas, Canonets and Konicas other people ("experts" among them) had considered beyond repair.
You can also do it, if you try! From time to time, however, shxt just happens, so do not be too disappointed when sth. goes wrong, setbacks ("life's little lessons") cannot be avoided and they are useful if you can learn from them. |
Michael Linn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 06:59 pm: |
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Dear Werner:
Thank you for your dissertation on patience and perseverance. They are rare qualities in today's world. Your comments and recommendations should be read by all who are attempting repair of classsic cameras, possibly for the first time. Your reward is not just a fine classic working rangefider camera (no doubt about the Lynx 14) but also the personal satisfaction of having mastered it yourself. I hope that your enthusiasm will be contagious.
You have my congratulations, and also my caution about the only design defect of the 14: that huge satin chrome lens assembly will reflect too much light into the meter in bright sunlight!
Thanks,
Mike |
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