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Kimbo

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Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2005 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've heard of OMs having problems with oil coating the electro-magnets, when the camera has been idle for prolonged periods. I suspect my 2SP has this problem - it hasn't been used for about 5 years!
The camera appears to function correctly in other respects but after firing the shutter a couple of times (to check that it was working), I loaded a film and only managed to wind to frame 1 before the whole thing seized up. I carefully opened the back and removed the film and there didn't seem to be a problem there.
The winding lever can now only be moved as far as the 30 degree stand-off position and the shutter will not fire - you can't press the button beyond the point that activates the meter!
The mirror is not locked up and the batts. are fresh. I also tried to release the shutter via the self-timer and with a cable release but to no avail.
At one point, I did suspect that the rewind button was jammed because it can only be pressed down about 1mm (it is almost flush with the housing) and I can't recall it's correct position. With the film loaded by spooling it by hand, the rewind button stays in that position but I thought it might pop up, it can however be pulled with forceps approx. 3mm but is spring-loaded and returns to it's former position when released.
The sprocket and take-up spools turn freely but nothing I've tried so far has solved the shutter / winder problem.

I've removed the front (vertical) piece of black shielding from inside the mirror box, to reveal some of the circuitry but am unsure of how to proceed. Do I need to remove the floor of the mirror box and if so, how?
Am I attempting to do the right thing, or way off base?

Many thanks for any suggestions and advice.
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rick

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Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2005 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Kimbo:

The OM2S is a pretty complex camera to start working blind, so you might want to be cautious about changing things until you are more sure of the problem.

The rewind button being in the depressed position virtually never has anything to do with any shutter problem. It just means that you pressed the button and you are unable to advance the shutter - the button will not come back up in most cameras until you wind the shutter the next time.

If the mirror is not locked up, this does not sound like an electronic problem. The shutter release trips the mirror mechanically, and the mirror rising turns on the electronic system (including the self timer). If the mirror has not gone up, I would guess that something is jammed mechanically. (You can check this by setting the shutter speed to the red 60 setting, which does not require batteries)

You can remove the baseplate to check that the shutter release link moves properly; this is a long black link across the front, from a point below the shutter release button to under the lens mount. You can reach the outer end of this without removing the baseplate, by unscrewing the motor drive cover. I don't recommend any further disassembly, though, unless the cost of getting the camera repaired is more than the cost of buying another to replace it.
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Kimbo

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Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2005 - 04:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Many thanks Rick,
I can confirm that selecting manual 1/60 shutter speed has no effect - thankyou for explaining the process.

I'll have a look at the 'long black link' you described and will report back.
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Olympfix

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Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This is a fairly common problem on OM 2 SPs-it is usually cured by removing the base plate-no critical settings- and cleaning the congealed grease on the interlock lever near the battery compartment. This often sticks after non use. Don't use WD 40! The screw DOES NOT allow the lever's removal- just put a drop or two of "shellite" or similar into the bushing and work it back and forth a few times against the light springs. This should work. Om2SP's are usually reliable other than that, although it is always advisable to remove batteries if not using for extended periods.

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