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Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 24, 2005 - 10:53 pm: | 
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Hi I have 2 canon ae-1s. One is just for parts and one I actually use. I'd like to switch out the focus screen from the parts camera to the one I actually use. I have found and printed out at least 3-4 huge instruction repair (view) manuals, but i am still clueless as to what is the EASIEST way to replace the focus screen.
Any suggestions? |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 25, 2005 - 12:12 am: |
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In cameras where the focus screen is not designed to be interchangeable this may be very difficult.
On non-electronic cameras you just have to remove the top cover and disassemble the prism and focussing screen. Depending on the design of the focussing screen mount this might imply re-adjusting the screen.
On most electronically controlled cameras there are lots of flexible electronic boards and wires wrapped around the prism. You also will have to deal with indicator boards above the focussing screen. It might be very difficult to disassemble and reassemble everything correctly. |
Chris
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 25, 2005 - 01:47 am: |
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As far as I know there are essentially two ways in which you can gain access to the focusing screen of the AE-1.
Before you start , you have to be fairly competent with soldering , own a 12 watt temp controlled iron with a very fine tip , good solder wick and good documentaton .
Your other invaluable asset is your "parts" AE-1 unit - to conduct trial runs.
You also need to be confident on how to remove/install the ASA&shutter speed dial , re-install and align the tungsten cable in the AE-1
Otherwise please don't try .
In the First Method , you will have to extract the mirror cage assembly from the main body. Hopefully the documents you have should tell you how -if not the USA Cameramans Repair Guide gives a very detailed step-by-step instruction on this delicate operation. It also highlights many of the precautions to take.
I would strongly advise you to take digital photos on each step along the way , make notes and sketches of parts and assemblies.
Also , as the AE-1 is more than 20 years old, the flexi pcb is the one thing you have to be extremely careful of . Please handle it with extreme care and respect .
(If the flex/ copper tracks breaks then you wll have to find fine wire to jumper)
The prism is held down by two spring clips. Remove those and the prism lifts off , you will be able to see a plastic rectungular separator , and etched frame with the shutter speed markings , the focusing screen is at the bottom .
Now Please be extra careful with the galvanometer needle . You have to lift and slide the focusing screen out , do not lift vertically otherwise you may bend the galvanometer needle . Do not tip the caera up-side-down either , things may fall out and you will not know in which order they go.
The re-assembly is just the reverse. Again your Camera repair Guide will show you how highlight the precautions to take.
IN the seconmd method, one which I have withnessed but not yet tried myself , you do not need to remove the mirror cage .
With the back of the camera facing you , you unscrew the film counter assembly on the RHS , unsolder some flexi pcb joints on the RHS of the main body ,unscrew the eye piece , and you should be able to flip the flexi board across to the LHS to expose the prism.
As compared to the first , this method will definitely put alot more bending and flexing stresses in the flexible pcb board but I think it is alot easier.
Again the fact that you have a "junkie" is an asset. You have something to try on first.
I am not trying to say that this is an easy task , nor is it within the scope of most people , but if you feel confident enough , plan out the operations step by step , and possess the essetial basics and references - I believe you can succeed.
Good Luck |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 25, 2005 - 04:39 am: |
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The second method is the quicker, as the first is virtually a major strip down. I have used second method a number of times, however both methods are a pain. If you can solder electronic circuits and have nimble fingers then have a go.
I would recommend that you put up with the existing screen or get an AE-1Program if you need different screens.
If you really want to go ahead strip the 'parts' body as if you were working on a good camera,ie no short cuts when wires or components get in way. Then reassemble it! If you are still happy, proceed with the switch. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 25, 2005 - 10:27 am: |
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I'm actually quite adept at soldering, I've soldered plently of computer parts before, so I'm not THAT worried about my AE-1. I have about 200 pages of documentation for my camera, so I am not that worried about it, although your suggestion about using the digital camera for a step by step guide is a good one. I have already managed to get the top off and expose the pcb without a problem, the soldering, although I'm not going to say its easy, shouldn't be that bad (I'll just make sure I get some flux). That sad thing about my parts camera is that it actually works quite well (I bought it from ebay for 54 dollars) So if it survives the excavation. then I'll be able to let my sister use it. Thank you all for your responses, I will keep you guys updated.
-Waqas |
rick
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 25, 2005 - 11:09 am: |
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If it works well, why is it a parts camera? |
chris
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 25, 2005 - 09:29 pm: |
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It would make your task alot neater if you can get hold of some 0.3mm diameter solder .
Always use solder wick ,a solder pump is just too clumsy for the job.
Good Luck |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 26, 2005 - 12:54 am: |
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Well because I bought it specifically to swap the focus screen with my current camera, and it working was just a perk. Yea I have a solder wick, I'll make sure to get some flux and .3mm diameter solder. Does it matter if I get high quality silver solder? |
rick
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 26, 2005 - 08:28 am: |
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I hate to keep drifting from the subject, but what's wrong with the one with the good screen? If you're going to wind up with one camera with a good screen and one with a bad screen anyway, why not just keep the one with the good screen and give yours to your sister? |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 26, 2005 - 09:41 am: |
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This is going to sound stupid, but partly sentimental values. That camera has been in my family since the late 70's. I just don't want to give it to my sister, I want to improve it. And furthermore,to gain knowledge in camera repair. I like opening up things and messing around with them. So this is a good of an exercise.
Btw if this is such a big forum, how come the moderators don't make it a membership forum and make it look nice? |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 26, 2005 - 11:54 am: |
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For your information this Forum is the success it is because of the way it operates and LOOKS! It is not like many other forums that take an age to navigate through, are full of crap and in the end give unworkable solutions. The advice given here is of the 'been there done that' variety.
If the camera is that important to you I would suggest that you leave it alone. A working camera with a grubby screen is far better than a non working one with a pristine screen.
I truly hope that you are successful, but I have seen enough AE-1 paperweights to know that this model is not the ideal first foray into the repair world. At least with two cameras you can give your sister a pair of bookends! |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2005 - 05:31 pm: |
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Thank you so much for all of your advice. I took the proper precuations and used the second method. I was able to extract the prism/focus screen unit (i didn't want to just extract the focus screen b/c it was too much of a hassle). However in the process I had to relieve the tension of the tungsten wire. I think I read somewhere in my manuel how to redo the tension, but I can't remember at this moment in time. Also, I was wondering how hard it would be to sqeuze the red led's back into their plastic holes.
Now all I have to do is do the same with my camera, having once done this process, the second time around should be a breeze. |
rick oleson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 06:06 am: |
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What is it that causes people to offer petty criticisms of the free services that others are giving them? If you don't like the way this forum is put together, you're welcome to create your own at your own expense and effort. Then you can make it look however you like. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 11:45 am: |
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I wasn't offering petty criticisms I was mainly inquiring as to why this forum was structured the way it is. I haven't seen too many forums like this. I'm sorry that you took offense to what I said, but I did not mean it that way.
Back to the camera repair part, Do you think I'll be able to pop the red indicator leds back into the plastic thingy which I popped them out from. AND any tips of the redoing the tension of the tungsten wire? |
rick oleson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 12:51 pm: |
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I have a sketch for the routing of the meter cord; email me if you'd like me to send it to you. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Thank you very much! I appreciate it.
YGM (you've got mail)! |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 02:00 pm: |
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Ok, so I was able to change the focus screen on my secondary Ae-1 (I haven't opened up my main ae-1), patch everything up (The meter works, I compared it with my working ae-1, whose meter i know works). I am able to advance the film (if there was any in there), everything is good EXCEPT the film door does not close shut and when I raise the film rewind knob nothing happens. It feel stiff and stuck. I think I somehow dealigned the latch thing for the door. Any way to realling it? |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 04:38 pm: |
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What exactly did you do with the latch mechanism besides removing the rewind knob to get top off. ie Did the rewind shaft fall out into body? Does the door close into the proper position but not latch or are you saying that the sliding catch in the body will not move and the door is always ajar?
One thing, did you remove the plate at end of camera or remove one or both of the screws? This plate covers the body part of the latch mechanism, is held away from the moving catch by two small cylindrical spacers that the two fixing screws pass through. If one or both of the spacers come displaced the plate will jam the catch.
I need to narrow down the mode of failure to give you the simplest cure. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 04:42 pm: |
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Ok so what I did (I don't even know why I did it), I removed the two black screws at the end of the camera. I didnt think much of it and just slid the piece back and place and put the screws back on. But now my door won't close. It just remains opened. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 06:44 am: |
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OK. This will be easy if you did not remove the plate when you removed the screws. The two spacers will still be behind the plate, hopefully! So remove the two screws and holding camera so plate is uppermost, lift it off. You will now see the body catch and hopefully the two displaced little spacers. Retrieve the spacers, place body carefully down so you do not displace the catch.
Now you can retain the spacers on the underside of the plate with a dab of grease but I tend to fix in place with a touch of super glue. Use a small drill bit to align the spacer and the hole - drill bit twists out easily if one is a bit generous with the glue.
Now just replace the plate and insert the screws.
If you go to www.canonfd.com/choose.htm and download the AE-1 Program parts manual, from repair manual section, you will find a diagram of how the catch fits. In fact the information will be in any official A Series manual, but the Program manual on this site is split into three sections.
If you have lost the spacers the a piece of brass tubing from a Model Shop will allow you to cut two more. Just roll the tube under a craftknife blade and the tube will separate eventually on the scoreline. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 12:19 pm: |
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Problem Fixed! Thanks Glen, and I love this forum. People actually help you out here. Ok with that problem out of the way (much thanks to Glen) there's another problem. whenenver I hit the button to fire the shutter it usually goes to the timer. Now when I was taking apart the flex pcb, there was a little problem where that thing metal stick (near the shutter operation metal thing) was ripped off. I tried my best to put it into place with some hot glue, but I think that is the cause of the problem. Any suggestions on how to fix that one. Or will I just have to fiddle around with it? This is the last problem with this camera, after this, all should be good! Btw any suggestions on how to glue my lethearette back to the body? |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 12:48 pm: |
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Actually i fixed the shutter fire problem myself. Just realligned the small metal stick. Ok so another problem, but I think this might be the last one and probably the biggest. The film counter dial doesn't seem to go back to S when I open the back of the camera. Any possible suggesitons, or solutions? |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 12:50 pm: |
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oh I forgot to give details-- Ok so when I was trying to get to the flex pcb, I had to unscrew the counter and the fire shutter fire. I placed it back and it advanced whenever I took a shot so I didn't think much of it. Until I realized that when I opened the back it wasn't going back to S. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 06:39 pm: |
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I use double sided tape to fix the leatherette.Micro Tools sell a tape that is not attacked by the plasticizer in the vinyl, but it is expensive on the European site. I use a tape that is used in the carpet laying industry - the substrate is a thin plastic film. This tape has been on one well used A1 for over 8 years and there is no sign of oozing or lifting of the vinyl. If you use a paper based tape, only use one that is approved for automotive use. I think Jon Goodman can supply details of this kind of tape.
The counter may be very simple to fix; You have to wind up/tension the return spring when you reinstall the unit, after removal. On some cameras there is a simple dodge that allows you to re-tension the spring, without undoing one screw. - You just keep winding on for say 50/60 exposures or whatever until the counter self returns to S or 0. I do not know if the A Series has a counter that just keeps rotating when it reaches end of counter dial. Give it a go and see what happens, otherwise you will have to remove the top and wind up the disc. All my counters have been out off the camera when I have re-tensioned them, ie during reassembly. Cannot remember if I have re-tensioned on camera.
As I never hardly use the counter; always been able to count the frames and roll/cassette removed at end of day/session, a duff counter is never a problem to me. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 06:16 am: |
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Actually there was just a latch that I had to catch to one end of the spring and place the counter in the s position and after that it worked flawlessly. I'll check the tape out, and do you know the lubrication points for the Ae-1? I skimmed through my Ae-1 repair manauls and they didn't seem to mention anything about it. I've seen Rick Oleson's views on how to removed the squeal, but I was wondering if there were any other lubrication points (I'm sure there are). In addition to that question, what lubricant is the best to use in these situations?
Thanks for the help Glen! |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 09:11 am: |
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It depends on who scanned the manuals onto the sites as to whether the lube charts are present or not. The A1 manual on www.canonfd.com, is the only one with the full details that I have found. Remember Canon stated that one should refer to the AE-1 manual in their early A1 manual - guts are basically same. So you can work the reverse if you want. However the list of products is a problem; what is available is very expensive and trying to find exact replacements is difficult. I use Nyoil and a Loctite White Lithium Grease, which from experience does not slump or separate.
However as the Canon lubricating schedule requires a major stripdown, I only do this during a full rebuild. Otherwise I just put a smallest smear of grease on the rubbing surfaces of the transport mechanism that is removed when the top comes off. I put one drop of Nyoil on the Mirror Damper Flywheel Shaft to remove the squeal. There are a number of ways to approach the flywheel; I always remove the top, as this allows you to clean out any dirt/fluff that you will find stuck around the top of the transport mechanism. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 05:07 pm: |
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I just orderd some nyoil and some plibond adhesive from micro tools.
So I took apart my 50mm 1.4 ssc canon fd lens with the bayonet mount (followed Rick Oleson's wonderful instructions) and I found that the old lubricant was gunking and in pretty bad conditions. I wiped it off and now the only lubricant I have is dollar store marine grease. I'm pretty sure I shouldn't use that, any other lubricants that you suggest? |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 08:40 pm: |
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I use the Loctite White Lithium and the feel it gives suits me. Micro Tools sells various grades of 'Damping Grease' especially for this job - at a price. You want a grease that will not separate on standing and gives you the right amount of resistance. A grease that eventually dries out, is much preferable to one that separates into an oily fluid and flows all over the inner surfaces of the optics. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 09:48 am: |
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I just ordered 16 oz spray can of loctite white lithium grease for approx $15. I could't find loctite on Micro-Tools. .:shrug:.
Now is grease the only factor when I'm focusing, is there a screw or something that could make my focusing silkier? |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 06:21 pm: |
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No magic screws or slippers, just a nice layer of grease in FD lenses. (100mm/f4 Macro has a focus damper to stop lens self extending and I think 200mm/f4 Macro has similar).
Not seen the Loctite in spray form, but have other types in this form. A tip: As you do not want to apply the grease by aerosol, spray some into a 35mm film container and leave to stand for about 1 hour, give it a good stir and then leave overnight. you should now have the grease in a form that does not slump and separate on standing.
Do not over grease the helical. If the action feels loose and sloppy, the grease is not thick enough and you will have to find a more viscous form. In the original Canon manual, they use a mixture of two different viscosity greases. However the mix ratio is different for the inner and outer helix. Partly due to the differing diameters I think. |
regretful Waqas
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 09:17 am: |
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thanks again Glen! Ok, I have a big problem. With one camera's focus screen succesfully replaced and no big problems occuring I decided to move onto my main Ae-1. I was able to replace the focus screen but in the process multiple problems arose. Unfortunately the newer flex circuit that my camera used was pretty weak. The 2 contact on the shutter speed dial area-- one of the contacts melted after I had taken the flex circuit off and was trying to solder it back on (I was only using a 25wat soldering iron and I left it on the conact for no longer than 5 seconds). I was able to still make a connection (or so I think). Then, there's ths small metal wire that runs across the camera, its maybe an inch long and it has something to do with the camera shutter fire. Well I was able to desolder the contact and take it off, but unable to put it back on, I didnt both resoldering the wire to the pcb. Then I ripped part of the flex circuit--near the first red led (if the lens mount hole was facing you). I must say the older flex cirucits are a LOT sturdier than these newer ones. I thought that would just cause the led not to work, unfortunately, nothing works now. I really feel stupid for rushing the job, I was just over confident after succesfully doing one. So I'm thinking I could solder some small wires and reconnect the traces on the ripped part, resolder the wire OR I could just get stop messing up my camera even more and just get it repaired-- I think they would just have to replace the flex circuit, how much would that cost? I know it wouldn't be cheap. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 05:56 pm: |
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Sorry for your problems, but now you know first hand the mess that arise with the flexi circuits. One reason why I only collect the first series of A1 cameras. Do not consider getting the camera repaired - you will get a mint replacement cheaper, even from a dealer!
Get rid of that 25 watt iron and get a 10 watt controllable one and some 0.5/0.8mm solder. Have a go at bridging the breaks/reconnecting. However this type of repair is difficult.
Sorry I cannot give you more encouraging advice. |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 11:36 pm: |
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Thanks for the advice Glen. Yea I already have an AE-1 and it's works flawlessly. So it's not THAT big of a deal. And I'm getting a leicaflex sl soon anyways, so the ae-1 was just going to hold me over until I got that camera. .:shrug:.
i use .023 mm solder. And I have a 10 watt soldering iron but it's frustrating b/c I feel that it never melts the solder or just takes too long. If I do bring the camera back from the dead I'll let you guys know. Thanks again for all your help and support. ;) |
Waqas Farid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 30, 2005 - 09:45 pm: |
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There' is a big problem with the Ae-1's and the battery door. So I got a replacement door but I don't know how to put it on. Any ideas, suggestions? Thanks again. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 02:05 pm: |
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Do a search in the archive ( last 4 weeks ) and you will find the instructions I posted . Sorry I cannot remember the exact date it was done. If you cannot find it email me direct and I will send you them.
Glenn. |
Peter Wallage
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2006 - 07:55 am: |
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Hi,
Although I haven't tried it, I know of a repair man who uses quite a high power soldering iron, something like 30 or 40 watts, to work on PCBs. He has the tip filed down very fine, and his contention is that with a really hot iron applied for tiny amount of time there is less chance of the heat spreading across the PCB and melting other joins or lifting the tracks than with a low powered iron held there for several seconds. Anyone else got views about this?
Peter |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2006 - 02:37 pm: |
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I would agree with your repair man even though I recommended Wagas try a lower wattage iron. The only way to keep a very fine long tip at working heat is to have enough watts and the less time the iron is in contact with these delicate circuits the better. Personally I have also had good results with my thermostatically controlled 10/12 watt iron fitted with 2mm x 1mm rectangular tip when bridging tracks or attaching fine wires onto the A Series flexi circuits. The low wattage iron is no good for replacing components and the controlled iron I use for that is a 35 watt item fitted with a fairly fine tip. This item came from a dispersal sale of redundant military service equipment and thus it is not surprising that it does the job it is designed for, it is massively over specified. Even came with a turning device to produce fine pointed bits from 3mm hard copper rod. |
