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Peter Wallage

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Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi all,

Some time ago I was given a Super Ikonta 530/2 (I believe it's also called the model C) which had been stored in an attic for years, and have just got around to examining it. The focusing wheel at the front, and the front lens cell are so stiff that I don't want to turn them much in case I break something, and the Compur Rapid sticks on slow speeds. The whole thing needs to come apart for cleaning, relubricating and re-aligning the rangefinder.

I've noticed that some 530/2 S-Is have two screws in the focusing wheel but others have only one. This has only one. I took the screw out, but the wheel just doesn't want to budge. I don't want to force things , but as far as I can see it has to come off to allow further disassembly. Has anyone taken one of these apart? If so I'd appreciate a few tips.

Thanks,

Peter
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David Nebenzahl

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Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've disassembled my Moskva-5, which I believe is a fairly faithful copy of the Super Ikonta "C". You'll need to take it apart to clean and lube it. It's not terribly difficult.

Why don't you ask me some more specific questions, and I'll see if my camera is, in fact, similar enough to yours to be of any help? (Just this once I'm putting my real email address in this message if you want to contact me directly.)
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Winfried

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Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have posted this message about disassembly of a Moskva shutter/rangefinder long ago, maybe it helps a bit:

I did not work on the original Ikonta but on two Moskva5 shutters which are virtually identical.

All which follows can be done with the shutter still on the camera. But I would strongly suggest to remove the complete assembly from the camera by removing the big ring nut inside the bellows. Some screws can be accessed more easily, and there is no more danger of damaging the bellows and spreader mechanism.

First, remove the thumb wheel from the prism arm. Remove the cover and the two screws under it. Remove the rear cover of the prism arm, but DO NOT touch the screw on the right (with the arm pointing upwards and seen from behind), loosen the left screw only. Remove the tension spring, and pull out the prism arm and its shaft backwards.

Now remove the focussing dial from the lens, screw out the front lens and remove the second lens element. Remove the shutter cover (four screws on the corners.

Next is the internal shutter cover (a die cast part). Turn the three half-cut screws with 'snakeeyes holes' so that they come off the notches in the shutter collar. Turn the shutter cover until the cams match the 'bulges' of the shutter cover (some kind of bayonet mount), and lift it.

I intentionally did not describe the procedure how to keep the lens and rangefinder properly adjusted. It might be possible to do all this without the need to readjust, but with such a complex disassembly in most cases they will have to be adjusted anyway. But this is less complex than you think.
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Peter Wallage

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Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 05:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks, Winfried.
The details you give will be a great help. However, what is stopping me from getting going is that the thumb wheel does not want to lift off. I have taken out the screw, and I suspect that the wheel is just seized on its spindle, but I want to be sure there is nothing else holding it.

Peter
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JIM

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Posted on Monday, January 12, 2004 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Winfried or David(or both)-
I've been tempted with the Moskva5. How would you rate the camera as to construction and picture taking?

JIM
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David Nebenzahl

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Posted on Monday, January 12, 2004 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

How would I rate the Moskva-5 on construction and picture-taking? Excellent and excellent.

I can say that here with confidence, while I might not be so unreserved elsewhere. That's because I recognize that more than likely, your specimen will need some kind of attention: if not out-and-out repair, then at least adjustment.

The weak points of this camera are:

The rangefinder:
The Super Ikonta/Moskva rangefinder is a mechanical marvel and a wonder to behold, but prone to problems. I think the problem with mine is probably typical: a bushing inside the mechanism had worn enough to allow occasional gear slippage. It was repairable, with some doing.
The struts:
Mine doesn't have too many problems in this area, other than sometimes being difficult to close, but I've heard reports of Moskvas that either were hard to open or close, or were out of alignment. Mine is quite rigid and in good alignment.

The front-cell focusing method isn't the best (better for the entire lens to move), but the Industar lens on the Moskva is a serious competitor to the CZJ lenses on the Ikonta. Pictures are tack-sharp.

Oh, and the viewfinder isn't the greatest. I guess if I had my druthers, I'd look for a nice Voigtländer Bessa II, which has a combined viewfinder/rangefinder. But the Moskva's isn't terrible. (The rangefinder is quite good, and slightly telescopic, like a Leica, making focusing easy.)
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Winfried

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Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2004 - 05:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I mostly agree with David on his opinion on the Moskvas. They are not designed badly, and (probably) the manufacturing quality level was quite high. Unfortunately many of the items coming to the west suffer from heavy usage, and sometimes from 'repair' attempts.

My advice is not to buy one which you can't test at least mechanically, i.e. check the spreader mechanism and the lens standart for misbent parts and mechanical play - and of course run the shutter at all speeds. If you find one which is working so far I think in most cases you can the lens and/or rangefinder adjusted if needed.

However, even the best Moskva5 I have found (or rather assembled from three junkers) does not unfold as promptly and smoothly as grandpa's good ol' Ikonta.
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JIM

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Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2004 - 03:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

David&Winfried-
Thanks for the comments on Moskva5's. I appreciate! Winfried-not much compares with Super Ikontas I think.The Super B I have was made in 1937. Uncoated Tessar. Photos are gorgeous. Have looked for years for a Super C,no luck yet. The Zeiss folders were sure built to last.
THANKS AGAIN for the comments,
JIM
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Steven Bailey

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Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2004 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Peter,
I am in the process of restoring a 530/2 Ikomat. The thumbwheel has a thin metal disc on front that is painted black. It's likely sticking to the front of the thumbwheel. Remove that, and there are two screws which come out, releasing the thumbwheel.
When I get done with this project, I hope to have photos of the reassembly.
Steve
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Karl Moll

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Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2004 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've noticed on my 532/16 that the front prism threads into and out of its gear so easily that it can change its setting during just normal usage. Shouldn't this be tacked down to the gear with Loktite or something similar to prevent it from changing position?

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