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Howard

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Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 06:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi folks,
I have just acquired a cosmetically very nice Lynx 1000. The shutter blades were sticking so I went in through the front and used some lighter fluid which did the trick. The Diaphragm however is stuck on 1.8 and adjusting the F Stop ring has no effect. I was thinking of peeling back the covering and removing the lens mounting plate so that I could remove the rear element and give the whole mechanism a good flush, and was wondering if this model has any wires that will need to be unsoldered, if the covering on these can be peeled back without damage and if there are any tricks to this Copal SV Shutter. The Selenium meter appears to be dead, so I guess I can't do too much damage as far as the wiring is concerned.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Winfried

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Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 06:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I think this is not a problem of sticky aperture blades, or, if it is, the blades must have been completely stuck to cause this problem. At least on the Lynx14 lens barrel sometimes the tab linking the aperture dial to the aperture mechanism sometimes gets misbent if someone tried to turn the aperture dial with too much force. In these cases the tab slips off the coupling pawl on the aperture mechanism and - depending on the direction it slipped off - you only will be able to close or open them completely but nothing in between.

I would suggest not to try to clean the blades anymore but rather to remove the aperture ring with its tab (provided the Lynx1000 is similar to the Lynx5000 and Lynx14 in this point) and bend the tab slighly inwards. When re-inserting the aperture dial make sure the tab fits into the aperture ring pawl which is barely visible through the gap between the shutter housing and the lens barrel cover.

However, if you encounter a similar problem with the aperture on cameras with automatic aperture mechanism when setting the aperture manually in most cases this is due to smudge on the aperture blades. On these cameras, the aperture mechanism is spring loaded and won't follow the aperture dial which is coupled to the aperture mechanism via a cam follower only if the aperture blades are dirty.
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Howard

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Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 06:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have just found Henry's article on this site for the Lynx 5000 which is very useful if not a bit daunting, but any other suggestions would also be welcome.
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Howard

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Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 06:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Winfried, It could well be as you suggest, certainly the aperture ring turns very freely as if it is not connected to anything.
I'll dismantle it and check this out.
Thanks again.
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Winfried

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Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 07:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You can see the tab I mentioned on one of the pics in Henry's article showing the separated aperture dial. The tab is close to the arrow pointing to the aperture dial.
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Dan Mitchell

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Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Howard, as Winfried said, most likely the coupling lever is bent. I have an article on the Lynx 5000 that shows this problem in detail. The Lynx 1000 is almost identical to the 5000. You don't need to remove the shutter from the camera, you can fix it from the front.
http://daniel.mitchell.name/cameras/lynx5000/lynx5000.html
Scroll down to where you see the picture with the lens removed. When bending this lever you need to be gentle. It's real easy to break it loose from the aperture control ring. If that happens, you can stick the lever back on with super glue.
Good luck.
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Howard

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Posted on Monday, February 16, 2004 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Daniel,
I had a good look at the link above to your site and am planning to tackle the camera in the next day or so. It certainly helps when you can examine a detailed series of photo's addressing the problem, which I'm pretty sure that Winfried and yourself have identified. Thanks for your help.
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Guy

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Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Howard, At one time I got "rooked" into buying complete manual for Lynx 1000 on ebay. It turned to be just exploded diagrams (7 of them) of the Lynx 1000. Not the manual I thought it would be. Anyway, let me know of your e-mail, and I'll send a scanned copy. Of course no charge for this. Maybe they will help. Guy (near Rocky Mountains, Canada)
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Howard

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Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - 10:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the offer Guy. My E-mail is [email protected]
The "manual" will be much appreciated. I've been working on it and it's a tricky little devil to re-assemble (Henry was right)
Thanks again.
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Howard

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Posted on Monday, February 23, 2004 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Follow up. Winfried & Daniel were right. The aperture had frozen and someone had obviously forced the ring and bent the tab which was hanging off. Liberal doses of lighter fluid and a thin prong finally got the aperture working smoothly again, and a nice strong 2 pack epoxy adhesive re-attached the tab. Clean the shutter and lens and then all I had to do then was juggle all the bits together again, quite a challenge on these cameras, but we got there in the end and its now working perfectly. I would like to also acknowledge Henry's article on the site. Without his pictures I might not have achieved success. Thanks to all, this forum is a godsend.
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Charles Fallis

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Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2004 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

"The Selenium meter appears to be dead, so I guess I can't do too much damage as far as the wiring is concerned."

I'd like to point out that Yashica Lynx's used CDS photo-resistors and a battery, not selenium cells. Unlike selenium cells, these are easily replaced. Radio Shack sells packages of them for $3.
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Howard

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Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2004 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Not the Lynx 1000 Charles. It predated the later 5000's and 14e's. It has a selenium cell and no battery.

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