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chris burck

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Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

this is probably the most prolific subject on these boards, so part of me hates to bring it up again, but. . . .

i believe that, at some point i've seen non-petroleum-based products mentioned. specifically 'simple green' and citrus-based degreasers. i took a look at them today, and the bottles say you need to rinse with water afterwards.

can anyone who has used these products describe how they go about it? have you used them to clean shutters? do you use them at full strength? do you rinse with water after?

any info would be appreciated.
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David Nebenzahl

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Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 12:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Wouldn't use them myself: too much risk of corrosion and residues left from either soap or the water used to rinse itself. I suppose you could try it, though.

Conventional petroleum-based solvents work fine: why not just use them? Even though I'm a confirmed eco-freak, I still prefer the petrochemicals. I use them very carefully and waste very little. I keep a couple of jars for used solvent, let them sit and the dirt settle to the bottom, then decant and reuse the solvent.
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Jim Brokaw

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Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 01:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The best-ever solvent was freon... but of course that's no longer available, and we're probably all better off with an ozone layer instead.

For 'usual' cleaning of old grease and oil deposits I think the "Ronsonol" or its equivalent(?) naptha works well. I don't think it cleans 100% dry, there seems to be a very slight residue left behind, but in practice I have found no problems using Ronsonol on shutter leafs, clockworks, and aperture mechanisms. It seems to cut the old grease out of some helical focus threads well also.

For some stubborn instances of strange grease in helical threads I have had good success with 99% isoprapanol alcohol. This seems to cut the grease that Ronsonol had trouble with. It also works well for SLR-lens aperture blades, leaving them clean.

Acetone is a very active solvent, but has attacked some plastics in my experience, so it is best to use it sparingly and only after carefully testing for bad reactions. It can also remove some inks as might be used to label aperture and distance scales on lenses or shutter speeds dials.

For all solvents, first test carefully on a small and non-critical area to make -sure- you won't eat away or dissolve something essential and not easily replaced. Watch out for solvents softening or dissolving glue holding (for instance) rangefinder windows or meter movement windows in place... ask me how I know :-p Remember to use all solvents in a well-ventilated area, and keep sources of flame or spark away as well. Try not to get solvents on the skin, as some chemicals are quickly absorbed and health issues may result.
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karlmoll

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Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 09:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

For the past 40 years I have been a formulations chemist specializing in cleaning products. I can assure you any water based cleaning product like Simple Green or 409, etc., used on a fine camera shutter carries a significant risk of causing corrosion. In addition, since most soils found in camera mechanisms are oil based like grease and body oils, water based products will not work nearly as well as oil based cleaners. Stick to the Ronsonol. I actually use Kingsford Charcoal Lighter. Its the same product in an economy sized bottle.

If you can find a Freon based aerosol can, it also works well and its great on lenses. Some of the computer cleaning products like "Dust Off" are still Freon based. Just spray with the can inverted to get the liquid stream.
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David Nebenzahl

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Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thank you for confirming my suspicion that the stuff in the big bottles (charcoal lighter) is basically the same as the stuff in the little bottles (cigarettle lighter fluid), only cheaper. Funny: I had a bottle of the exact same stuff, Kingsford lighter. That quart bottle lasted me for several years.

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