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Matt Denton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 27, 2004 - 10:09 am: | 
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Hi all - I have a new-to-me Super Shot that seems like it was working before I took off the top to clean the rangefinder glass, now the shutter doesn't open. The battery check light works (new-ish LR50 that works in another camera with a Seiko-ES) and the low light warning light seems to be working as well, but the shutter blades don't open except maybe once every 20 times I press the release. Any insight on this one? I don't see what I could have done just opening the top. S/T works too, but doesn't trip the shutter either. Winding mechanism works. I'm stumped. Thanks for any help!
Matt
www.mattdentonphoto.com |
Reiner
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 12:25 pm: |
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Hi Matt,
the only reasons that I can imagine for a problem like yours are unreliable electrical contacts or an unreliable battery. I do not know the Seiko ES shutter by my own experience but since it is the precessor of the Seiko ESF shutter I expect it to work in a similiar way. The critical points can be the contact between battery contacts and battery compartment contacts, the solder junctions within the camera and the internal wires also. It they suffer form corrosion because of a leaked battery they might be unreliable. Of cause taking off the top cap should not be the reason. |
Matt Denton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 10:52 pm: |
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Thanks Reiner. I looked a little harder, it's nice that the manual had a circuit diagram, though a wiring diagram would have been even better ;) From what I could see, the wires and their solder points all look pretty good, though there's no accounting for unseen corrosion inside the insulating jackets. As far as old electronic cameras go it's quite clean. The battery chamber has two wires coming simultaneously from the bottom (-) contact, going to I assume two separate circuits; no separate wire connection means to me that the circuit is completed by the camera body itself. I'm awaiting a replacement for this battery but I'm not confident that it will solve the problem. If it doesn't I'll have to assume it's the wiring, since I already cleaned the battery contacts. |
Reiner
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2004 - 01:47 pm: |
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Matt, some other ideas. It should be possible to proof the electrical resistance of the meter circuit between two points when the circuit is switched on and to monior the reaction on different light. I assume there might be a switch coupled to the shutter release like in the Hi-Matic E. However : this switch is a suspect part as well. Over the years the contacts might be covered of oxid.
For checks like yours I have a cheap battery holder for standard AA cells. With soldered wires and clamps or needles at the ends it is possible to simulate a fresh photo battery. Needles are even effective on dirty battery compartment contacts. |
Matt Denton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 - 04:14 pm: |
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Thanks Reiner, I totally forgot about that method, I'd used it in the past when I did more in-depth repairs. I could only get ahold of a AAA holder but fixed it up and the first time I tried it the shutter opened and then not again after that. Fairly consistent to say that when I've got it to work it's worked the 'first time' and not again after that.
I did get the front open enough to inspect and clean the PCB where the meter circuits are, that looks great and all the wires are intact and the solder points all clean. The problem must be in the open shutter magnet, or in the connection between the winder and the shutter release circuit. I may have to search for a repair manual on this one, I don't want to give up on it...
Matt |
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