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Jon Flanders

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Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2004 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Just took a first roll of film with a recently acquired Zorki 4. Some of the pictures were great, but evidently there is a shutter problem because on some pictures there is a vertical pinkish band. I suspect that one of the shutter curtains is lagging. Is this correct? Is there anything I can do about it? I shot only at 1/500th of a second. Will try a slower speed on the next roll.

Jon Flanders
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Winfried

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Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 03:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I don't think so, I rather think you have some light leaks in the grooves of the loading door. Light leaks in the curtain (or 'banding' due to non-constant shutter curtain speed) usually show in the same colour as the rest of the image. When light falls on the film from behind you usually get red or orange streaks.
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John Cribbin

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Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 05:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Before you try another roll of film, give the shutter a good workout. You have no idea how long since the camera was last used and Soviet lubricants are notorious for turning into glue rather than lube! I recently obtained a very nice Zorki 6 with a stuck shutter and lens. The lens was relubed, but with a bit of coaxing and 2-3 hundred dry firings, the shutter is now fine. Obviously nothing will replace a good CLA, but a bit of time and patience can often get things working again.
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Jon Goodman

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Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 07:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I agree with Winfried 100%. I believe you have a light leak somewhere, possibly at the connection of the film door to the body, or possibly somewhere else. Be sure the two screws on the front part of the camera are present. These help hold the shutter crate in place. If either is missing, you will get light where you do not want it to be. Be sure all other exterior screws are present, also. If you need a light seal kit, I can send you one for as little as $6...to see it, please go to E-Bay and search using the "by seller" option. Enter my ID...Interslice...and there you go.

Jon
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Jon Flanders

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Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the quick responses. If it is a light leak, why is it that not all the shots on the roll were affected? Also, I shot the film with the case on the camera, which should block out leaks at least at the bottom of the loading door. Not all the banding was pinkish, although most were.

Jon Flanders
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Sean OKeefe

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Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Not all shots are in conditions where light exposure is greatest (full sun outdoors, you were using 1/500 after all), not all pictures were outside the casette the same length of time (i.e., the film that was shot first is out of the casette longer), the band should be on the bottom of the picture if the light leak is on top of the camera. If your bands are on the bottom of the pix the leak can still be at the top back. There is always the possibilty that the shop messed up. Make sure the back is on properly with the rear assembly fully up inside the back. I've had one Z4 that was tricky to get the back on properly, the latches would close with the back not all the way up, make sure the back is on right. I don't remember any foam in the back of the 4 so I'm not thinking you need a foam job.
Sean
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Jon Flanders

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Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The band runs vertically from the top to the bottom of the picture in landscape, about 2/3 of the way to wards the right hand side. The band is pretty much the same from top to bottom, this is why I thought the shutter could be the problem.

Of course you are right that the developer might have screwed up, another roll will test that.

Jon Flanders
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Tõnu Tamm

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Posted on Monday, July 12, 2004 - 08:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

My Zorki-4 repair manual says that light leaks often via a hole for self-timer lever. That's why later Zorkis have light-seals around the axis of that lever and inside the camera between body and self-timer. If leaking affects your negs from edge to edge, this is likely to be the place to check. if leaks don't reach perforation, the flaw must lie in shutter box. I once forget a screw thar holds rangefinders near-to-eye end on the camera body and get weak bluish stripes on the upper right corner of some pictures.
Tõnu Tamm
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Jon Flanders

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Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2004 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Whether it is causing the light streaks or not, this Zorki has some kind of shutter problem. When I wind it sometimes the shutter fires before I hit the shutter speed mark.

I have to wind very carefully or it will trip.

Jon Flanders
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Jon Flanders

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Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2004 - 04:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Woops! Not a shutter problem on the skipping. Operator error. I had the rewind around the shutter button not in the clockwise position.

Jon Flanders
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Jon Goodman

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Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2004 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi, Jon.
These clean up really nicely. Particularly the first series (1956-about 1959 or so) can be restored to a smooth enjoyable camera that is well worth the effort. Have you watched the shutter to see if you can tell anything? Maybe remove the lens in a dark room, point the lens opening toward an open light bulb and fire the shutter at 1/500 (and other speeds) to see what happens. Do you still see light when the shutter curtains have come to rest? Does light get through anywhere when you are cocking the shutter? Are there any pinholes in the cloth? Things like this--look for abnormalities. The shutter should be smooth, but without too much spring tension. On "B" each curtain should travel across the opening decisively but without an abundance of speed or vigor. The ends of the curtains should overlap each other without hanging, and the ends should be parallel to each other (vertically). Let's see what we see. This shutter/camera isn't all that complicated and I'll bet you (or somebody) could bring it back to fine order without too much trouble. Rick Oleson has some notes on his site...have you seen those?
Jon
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Tom Walters

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Posted on Monday, September 12, 2005 - 09:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Everyone -

Just found this old thread on a Google search, and it sounds like a problem I've been having with a Zorki 1. On inspection, what seems to be happening is that there is a tiny gap between the shutter curtains when I start to advance the film.

As the winding continues, the gap closes up, and the shutter works fine during the exposure.

But the problem seems to be that, when I advance with the lens cap off, there is a tiny strip of film that is exposed to light, and it creates a problem like the one Jon describes.

Anyone else ever run into this? Or know of a solution?

Tom
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Monday, September 12, 2005 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I assume you mean that the metal laths in/on the blinds are not overlapping properly in the untensioned state.You do not say if this has suddenly happened,was there when purchased or if somebody has been 'adjusting' shutter.

If camera is original,then the ribbons may have stretched due to age or wear.Gap closes on winding because the material being wound onto roller effectively increases the diameter,thus taking in more material and drawing ends of blinds together.It is also just possible that something is stopping the righthand blind (viewed from rear) from closing fully.Make sure that the 'interupter' gear at bottom of camera is completely clean and free of debris.Also check that the fast speeds select properly.

If this does not work, you will need to strip the shutter out and try to reassemble the blinds/rollers in their proper positions relative to each other.If problem due to incorrect assembly,this may be all it needs.If new blinds have been fitted,then you may have to reglue blind/ribbons in their correct location on the rollers.If ribbons are worn, then new blinds/ribbons are the order of the day.

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