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Bruce Barrett
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2004 - 05:23 pm: | 
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Hi All (cool site!)
I recently inherited my dad's Rollei 35SE camera, hunted around and found the replacement battery for the old mercury version, and installed it.
See here:
S27PX from http://www.photobattery.com/PX27.html
Now both LED light up all the time (even when pointed at light-bulbs, etc.) as I activate the meter.
The owners manual I've read indicates that this means the current light levels are "out of range" for the meter. I'm guessing that the CdS cell, or maybe other circuitry, has gone bad.
Are these repairable?
Do the CdS's usually "go bad" after 20+ years?
Can I do it myself?
Thanks.
Bruce |
A.R. Yue
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2004 - 07:52 pm: |
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On my old 35 SE I quite often removed the battery and used it as a non-metered camera rather than deal with glowing LED's in the viewfinder.
A CdS cell is just a variable resistor. Its resistance is light dependent. The more light it receives, the lower the resistance.
My guess either the CdS cell is toast, or a poor connection somewhere that is acting as a resistor.
Did you try changing the ISO setting to 800 and stand near a light bulb while varying the shutter speeds at f/2.8? I'd at least take the camera outside and see if you can get it to agree with the "Sunny 16 Rule". |
Lui Vium
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 16, 2004 - 01:36 pm: |
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Hi; I seem have the same problem with my 35 LED, even though the design of the lightmeter may be different. I got the camera cheap, but the guy I got it from insisted that the camera was OK ! I have change the battery and the lightmeter states every situation is underexposed ??? I cranked the ASA setting to 1600 and shutter on 1/30, and with the camera held towards a 60 watt lightbulb it still says underexposed ??? I was thinking of buying a secondhand Zeiss Ikophot (1955) lightmeter device instead of trying to fix the camera. If possible I'll try with a newer version of the Zeiss. But does these kind of handheld lighmeters work for a Rollei 40 mm ?
Any help is highly appreciated
Lui, Denmark |
Bruce Barrett
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 28, 2004 - 06:22 pm: |
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Hi,
Thanks A.R. for the reply...
Yes, I've tried changing the ASA, opening the F-Stop and extending the shutter speed all the way. Both LEDs still illuminate every time.
I agree the CdS cell probably is toast, though one can hope for a bad solder joint instead :-) (I know Radio-Shack has some CdS like this, probably Digi-Key has more) I was hoping someone had tried this already.
Actually I'd like to find instructions for disassembling this thing so I could take a look... I'm usually fairly good at this sort of thing, but I only see 2 screws (sides) and it looks like I could remove the winder-arm but I'm not sure if that's enough to get the top off. Haven't tried yet.
Bruce |
Andrew Yue
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2004 - 07:32 am: |
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Opening a Rollei 35SE isn't for novices,
I haven't experienced the joy of opening up the 35SE. There may be some adjuestments you can make to the meter itself. However, after attempting to bring back a 35T parts camera to life, I must say this is my least favorite camera to work on.
Schematic diagrams are probably available on eBay. A pin spanner is must have tool, as the removal of the rewind crank screw, rewind releases screw and the screw on the back cover. In lieu of a pin spanner, try a drafting compass with two metal tips attached. The top cover and all of the screws are made of a soft aluminum that are easily scratched. Also, are there any screws in the battery compartment????
The rewind selector lever post will prevent the cover from lifting off. Very carefully see if the post will pull off its mount. Use a medical hemostat rather than pliers.
Once you have the top cover off, you'll risk having the shutter cocking mechanism spring apart on you. You may wish to reattach the film winder at this point.
Having not taken apart the SE or TE I can't tell you the rest. At this point you are on your own.
I believe the aperture and film speed adjustment regulates a variable neutral density filter in front of the CdS cell and the shutter speed dial must in some way vary the resistance in the circuit.
With the top cover off, clip the leads of an ohmmeter to the terminals of the CdS cell and shine a bright flash light or whatever into the cell. You should see the resistance decrease dramaticaly.
Lastly, I must say this would be the last camera that I would choose to work. Why not leave be and enjoy the camera as a full manual pocket shooter?
Learning the "Sunny 16 Rule" brings peace of mind. |
Bruce Barrett
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2004 - 11:39 am: |
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Thanks Andrew,
I haven't taken apart many cameras so I guess I'm a "novice". I'm really a programer who does a little electronics from time-to-time, not a camera repair guy.
I did find another discussion on this site "Top plate removal Rollei 35S" which covered just one aspect. Your description covers more of the generalities that I needed. Thanks. I'm not looking forward to having parts "spring apart on me".
I suspect the reason this camera is so hard to work on is that they were trying to minimize size. I've taken apart an Apple iBook (clamshell) and things are tight in there too.
I know "Sunny 16" is my friend... more concerned with the more marginal lighting conditions (cloudy shadows, sunset, etc.) I also have a spot meter I can use, though that doubles the size of the package (and small was sort of the idea). I guess I was hoping that a little solder surgery would give me a working meter and small camera. Thanks again for the pointers and recomendations. I still might "go for it", but we'll see, (There's film in there now so not right away.)
--Bruce |
Fred Krickson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2004 - 07:30 pm: |
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Hello! I have a 35SE that I have owned since 86 and I need a new battery for it. Can't find any helpful camera repair types around here. Should this be so hard? Any ideas? Fred |
Andrew Yue
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2004 - 10:49 pm: |
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Bruce, the Rollei light meter putzes out in indoor lighting. It only works down to about EV8 @ ISO 100. I use a tiny Gossen Digisix to meter with my 35S. It fits in a shirt pocket and is one hundred percent light weight plastic. You can still keep the Rollei in a small belt pouch.
The older Rollei 35's and the 35S had their meters located on top of the camera, which is why the dials are placed the way they are. With the 35S I can usually meter off of my back of my hand when setting the aperture and shutter speed. It's quicker than looking through a veiwfinder and waiting for the center the LED to light up. You do have to center your vision over the match needle. It barely moves when the needle is at its low end. So very little movement occurs between different stops.
To explain the Rollei 35 series one has to go back to the 1950's when the compact Wirgin 35mm cameras were being produced in the midst of several 35mm folders of the period. The big improvement over the Wirgin which also had a collapsing len tube is that Rollei moved the shutter assembly to the body. This resulted in a much smaller lens tube, which allowed for the use of much smaller body.
The Rollei 35's basically took the 50's concepts for a compact 35mm camera and rearranged them onto a smaller body with a coupled light meter. It was an camera of the old think before you shoot tradition and as such was barely able to compete against the Minox and Olympus XA in its later years.
Fred, try www.photobattery.com. Go for the silver oxide. |
Fred Krickson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2004 - 03:42 pm: |
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WOW Thanks so much!! Fred |
Fred Bellaich
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2004 - 10:46 am: |
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Hi everyone
I guess i can help on this Rollei 35 SE meter problem. I had an analog problem with my 35 SE and its meter, and i fixed it. The problem you have is not exactly an electrical problem, but kind of mechanical problem, because the Rollei 35 SE meter is very different from the other Rollei 35. It's the more complicated, but it's not that big, as the other are very simple Gossen meters.
The meter seems to be in good shape as there is few electronics into and because the two leds are lightning, it's mainly working. But when you're measuring out of its range, there's a small double "tongue" (? sorry i'm french, i don't have all the words) which is driven by the asa selector, the aperture wheel and the speeds wheel together (mechanically driven) and when the two "tongues" are touching, the meter lights 2 red led to tell you're out. The problem is that you have to disassemble the top cover fix it, you can't fix it in another way.
To remove top cover, first use a friction tool (sleeve for washing the dishes by exeample) to remove the small wheel with 2 holes protecting the advance lever. Then remove the 3 screws under (careful, they are made of brass or any smooth metal) then pull off the cocking lever. Then pull of the 2 side screws, the the back screw with an appropriate tool, but if you don't have it, begin with you nails (Yes!) because it's very easy to damage, or to damage the top cover, it's just the signature of bad working repairmen ;-) . if you don't succeed, try to put a small drop of degrip oil on this screw and wait one night. Then you have to unscrew the meter battery lever (more easy), and then the reverse film screw and lever near the finder. When it's done, you have to remove the inside lever of reverse film, and you have to know that you must turn it a quarter of turn clockwise from normal position (as if the lever was covering the finder) then pull it off with soft pliers. So the top cover is ready to be removed. Be careful with the gear under the cocking lever, because it can go out very easily, and it locks the spring of the cocking lever. But even if it goes out, it's not a big deal to put it again at the right place.
Then you can see this "out of range" contactor under the meter, very near the shutter trigger. You will be able to see why it is always in contact, and how you will be able to fix it. There could be many reasons, but all are mecanical reasons, because the electronics are simple.
let us know what it is about !
Good luck.
Fred |
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