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Jeffk
Tinkerer
Username: Jeffk
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 12:32 pm: | 
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Just found this site, great stuff! Nice to see I'm not the only old camera nut around, I have a nice little collection of old film cameras that use now and then, in addition to my Kyocera/Contax cameras that I do most of my shooting with. Mostly old Zeiss, Contax, Leica, Minox, including a 122 roll-film Nixe from the late '20's that can still produce very nice poster-size B&W landscapes.
So I see now, probably, why the one roll of film I put through my Zeiss Ikoflex Ic produced less-than-stellar quality photos - the taking lens appears to be clouded inside. This isn't surprising, the camera has a faint mold odor from poor storage by the previous owner(s) (though it is otherwise pristine and as-new), but I can't figure out how to get the lens apart. This is the 75 mm Novar lens. There is a ring at the front that I could possibly remove with a spanner of some kind, but it's tight and a small screwdriver doesn't do it. I tried unscrewing the whole chrome rim, but it doesn't budge. Has anyone here tackled this problem on this camera? |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 115
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 01:25 pm: |
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With an Ikoflex 1a the whole frontlens can be removed by turning the outer ring counterclockwise. See here : Tessar removed
You can use a rubber tool as seen in one of the other images in that Flickr set.
The Namering of the Frontlens can also be removed, turn ccw with a rubber tool. You are then able to remove the frontglass and clean the inside.
Remember this information is for an Ikoflex 1a with a Tessar lens. I don't know if the 1c is exactly the same. |
Jeffk
Tinkerer
Username: Jeffk
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 06:50 pm: |
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Excellent, thank you for the tip - the lens does unscrew with help from a rubber gripper. Next task, get the front ring off, since that seems to be the only way to access the surfaces between the lenses (looks like there are two). |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 117
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2011 - 02:55 pm: |
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Well done Jeff. First step finished !
Here a photo shot just after i removed the namering and frontglass of my Tessar.
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Jeffk
Tinkerer
Username: Jeffk
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2011 - 08:15 pm: |
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Looks very similar to my Novar, except my chrome barrel is not knurled. Is there a source for an appropriate spanner wrench to remove the namering? I tried various kluges that I could think of, and I'm usually pretty good at coming up with good kluges, but I can't get it to budge and I don't want to get violent with it and damage it. |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 118
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 04:28 am: |
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I removed mine with the rubber tool visible in my Flickr set. There were no slits or holes in the Namering so a spanner couldn't be used. |
Jeffk
Tinkerer
Username: Jeffk
Post Number: 6
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 08:15 am: |
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Looks like there are all kinds of commercial adjustable spanners available, but a cut piece of paper shows that the crest of the lens element is below the level of the notches in the ring, meaning I can probably get by with a small aluminum bar cut to the right length and end thickness to span between the notches. More work than I anticipated, but hey, that's part of the fun! That tool will cost me zero since I have the stock, saw and dremel grinder in the garage. |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 120
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 09:06 am: |
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Jeff, try with a rubber tool first. Mine was a rubber doorstopper (cost 2 Euro) which is partly hollow at the underside so it doesn't touch the lensglass.
You can use a spanner of course but when it slips you get nasty scratches. Also protect the glass when using a spanner i.e. with a piece of gaffertape. |
Jeffk
Tinkerer
Username: Jeffk
Post Number: 8
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 11:09 pm: |
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The ring absolutely would not budge without the spanner, but it worked out fine! I found a steel bracket of some kind in the garage and made a spanner out of it, cleaned up the lens (mold was inside the front lens element), and put it all back together again. Lost a tiny bit of paint around the notches, and touched it up with some flat black paint and a fine brush. Looks great, thanks for the tips!
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Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 121
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 04:36 am: |
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Thanks for the pics. Nice collection ! |
Tore_hegdahl
Tinkerer
Username: Tore_hegdahl
Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 - 01:53 pm: |
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Hello
I am searcing for advice on how to clean the release lever mecanism in my Ikoflex 1c. The mecanism is so dirty the lever must be lifted manually after each exposure. If the process is logical and doesn't require special tools (or special skills)I could try my hand on it, but not without some piece of advice.
Tore Hegdahl, Bergen, Norway |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 17
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2011 - 01:05 am: |
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Nice job Jeff, a fine collection too.
I really should add an Ikoflex to mine one of these days. Though I've set my sights on a III, which are of course the most expensive of the series  |
