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Classic Camera Repair » Archives-2006 » Screwdriver for lens that does not just get the carp chewed out of it? « Previous Next »

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Frank McLean

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Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The repair articles mention the NIWA T handle driver, but do not indicate a good blade. I have tried numerous, ok, 3, Phillips drivers on the screws of a lens I'm working on and had them all destroyed in the process. The screws are still blemish free and grinning at my stupidity.
So, I'll buy anything that will get me in there, like a NIWA. My question is, what blades do I need? Micro-tools has crosspoint (XPT) and Phillips. According to Tomosy, Phillips #0 is my baby, but I've found #00 to be nearer the mark. He also calls camera screws 'crosspoint', so I'd buy those, but they don't come in #0, #00, etc, rather 2mm, 2.5mm, etc, so I'm lost as to what to buy.

HELP!! I just want to buy a driver that will not leave its tip as a blob of silver nestled in the screw head, and I want it to be the exact right fit, not an approximation, since I'm willing to spend a bit of money.

Thanks in advance,

Frank

PS Yes, I'm sure the screws aren't lefthanded. :-)
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Richard Cook

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Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 10:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Not the answer you wanted but I use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to undo crosshead screws.
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Henry

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Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You had genuine Niwa tips shear off? This really surprises me. I've broken a couple in the last 5 years but never by hand...they were chucked in my drill press and having the bejeezes twisted out of them.

Get crosspoint...

Henry
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seanmckinney

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Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 06:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I found CK jeweller screw drivers to be good, possibly sets 4896 or 4854. The former is a boxed set with a handle providing a good grip and 5 reversable 'bits', so 10 tips, philips, flat and torx. I have bust the smallest flay but I was abusing it.
The latter is a wallet of 6 one piece screwdrivers with 2 philips and 4 flat
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I use the Niwa tips and handles. For the amount of use you can get out of them, the initial cost is peanuts. The only tips of similar quality I have, are in a set of drivers of unknown origin. I suspect they originated in China, however they have poorly designed handles and are useless for tight screws. I was able to drill the handles and fit T-bars in all but the smallest diameter tipped ones.

On my flat tips I grind the tip thickness to the exact slot width. I also ensure that the blade is of the full head diameter, for countersunk heads the outer edge is relieved to clear the counter bore. Extreme maybe, but nothing looks worse than mangled slotheads.
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Henry

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Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Do an archive search for "tight screw" and you'll find tons of info.

There are several methods folk here use. Dropping on some solvent would be a good start AFTER getting a good, big handled driver. On crosspoints I generally use a tip that looks too big. As long as it goes in deep enough it'll work.

Another fine trick, if the screw isn't in a delicate area, is to tap the driver handle with a hammer. The impact will sometimes break it loose.

But the drill press method ALWAYS works. It is just a hassle. You'll find this method and more explained in depth in various archive threads.

Henry
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Frank McLean

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Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 02:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi folks,

Thank you all for the input, it's greatly appreciated. I am definitely going to invest in non-Play-Doh blades. However, one of my main concerns is getting the right size. Like I say -'According to Tomosy, Phillips #0 is my baby, but I've found #00 to be nearer the mark. He also calls camera screws 'crosspoint', so I'd buy those, but they don't come in #0, #00, etc, rather 2mm, 2.5mm, etc, so I'm lost as to what to buy.' At least, the Micro-tools site doesn't label them #0, #00, etc.

If anyone can give me a definitive answer like 'measure the width of one bar of the cross in the screwhead = the crosspoint size you want' (or whatever), I'd be golden. From my reading, crosspoints are designed not to 'cam out', ie let the driver slip out in case of too much torque, whereas Phillips are specifically designed to do that very thing. See, I have done *some* work of my own. I really want to get the primo appropriate tool here.

Thanks in advance and I will be looking into your 'tight screw' search, Henry.

Cheers.

Frank
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Henry

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Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Ouch! The MicroTools price of Niwa stuff has sure gone up since I bought mine. Luckily I bought several.

If I were you, I'd buy at least one of each of the tips...that is if you already have the handles.

Henry
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Frank,

The only thing to do is buy one or two of each miniature size, as Henry recommends. As a rule of thumb, the length of a slot is the MINIMUM diameter driver that you should use. However as Henry also points out, if the tips are well formed larger diameter drivers will also fit and do the job.

You can also find screws, with smaller 'crosses' in their heads than you would expect from the head diameter. Canon A series bodies have a number like this. However when removed, these screws invariably have plain shouldered shanks as bearing surfaces or larger heads for retaining components. The cross form is standard for the diameter of the threaded portion of the shank. One tends to forget that these head forms were designed specifically for high volume production using power tools, set to specific torque loadings.

On the subject of pricing:- MicroTools are certainly more expensive than other companies supplying professional tools etc. Trouble is that other suppliers with a similar range of products, are few and far between - certainly in the UK.
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Frank McLean

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Posted on Monday, March 27, 2006 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thank you, one and all. I shall buy with confidence. :-)

Now I can ruin the thing with the proper tools, at least.

Cheers,

Frank

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