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Powernapper
Tinkerer
Username: Powernapper
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2010 - 09:25 am: | 
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Hi everyone.
I recently bought an Agfa Billy which is in very good condition. I've put a roll of film through it with good results as far as exposure is concerned, suggesting that the iris and shutter are both working correctly.
Unfortunately 7 of the shots are way out of focus and upon examining the camera I can see that although the focus ring turns freely, the lens is not moving "in and out" of the camera. So, I have a fixed-focus Agfa Billy.
Because of the overall good condition of the camera I'd be happy to have it repaired (cost not being too high).
So my question is, can anyone recommend a repairer, or is this something I may be able to have a go at myself?
I'm in the UK.
Thanks in anticipation. |
Reborn7
Tinkerer
Username: Reborn7
Post Number: 42
Registered: 11-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 05:51 am: |
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Almost everything you need to know about Agfa folders on this UK site :
http://www.rolandandcaroline.co.uk/repair.html |
Der_uli
Tinkerer
Username: Der_uli
Post Number: 17
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 09:17 am: |
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Amidst this article below you'll find some enlarged pictures of another Agfa. There it is described how to disassemble and adjust the focus.
Perhaps you needn't go that far yourself. If your focus ring turns, but not the lens, the screws fastening the ring are loose or missing. Try to fix these first.
Often the grease in the lens' bearing has hardened so much that you need a *lot* of force to turn the lens. It gets easier when you warm up the camera a little bit, e.g. by putting it into the sun, or with a hairdryer. Several turns over the full distance range may make it operable again.
I won't advise you to put solvent or oil on the outer thread rings of the first lens - the wrong one may creep over time into the shutter and block it, and/or spoil the lens surface.
If this doesn't help, perhaps someone in the forum will disassemble and clean the lens for you. In which region of the planet is the camera?
-uli |
Graham_austin
Tinkerer
Username: Graham_austin
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 07, 2011 - 10:10 am: |
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I have just successfully unfrozen the front element of my Billy. The focusing is achieved by the front element screwing out of the middle element. When the special AGFA grease hardens it is like glue. I had read that you can remove the front elements together and soak them in acetone. Or some peple use lots of heat (scary). I tried Acetone but it was taking a long time. I read that you can use Goof Off solvent, which is unavailable in UK. However, I noted from the safety details that it contained ether and other solvents. So I tried ether - from a can of "Quickstart" spray. I immersed the elements in the ether in a small glass jar and fitted the lid tightly. Then I put it on a hot pipe in my airing cupboard. The heat made the ether evapourate and pressured the jar. This eventually forced the solvent through the threads and I could see it between the elements. It then unscrewed by finger pressure - so no clamps or risk of damage. Now I just need to clean it all up and reassemble. I shall use Loctite on the inner element and a tiny bit of silicon grease on the focus thread.
I also used ether to degrease the shutter - which was successful but did soften the black paint around the rim of my Compur. It hasn't fetched it off but it is a bit sticky. I'm hoping it will harden when the ether evapourates. Now the slow speed servo works and I have proper slow speeds and not a load of 1/25ths. |
Scott
Tinkerer
Username: Scott
Post Number: 129
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 07, 2011 - 11:24 pm: |
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Loctite on a vintage camera??? Please don't!!
Just screw the middle element casing down snugly into the shutter housing. It won't go anywhere, especially with new grease in the focus threads.
I usually smear a tiny bit of new grease on the threads of the middle element casing, just to make sure it comes out easily for whoever may be repairing 50 years from now. |
Graham_austin
Tinkerer
Username: Graham_austin
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 06:56 am: |
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I take your point Scott - but in my defence I did get the idea off a blog (In to the perpetrator I imagine that it is intended to use the weakest strength Loctite). I will try it without because I may need to get at the shutter again. Where do you stand on lubrication by the way? I wasn't going to bother for the few films I shall put through it and I wouldn't know where to lube anyway. |
Scott
Tinkerer
Username: Scott
Post Number: 130
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 08:12 am: |
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These simpler sorts of 1950s cameras actually do not need any lubrication, apart from the focus threads (or the helical threads in a typical rangefinder). Some with complex cocking mechanisms like the Retina and the Karat do need more grease on the cocking rack.
If there is undue friction in the winding knob, then a tiny drop of heavy oil won't hurt, but the main thing is to keep oil well away from the shutter and aperture mechanisms.
If I disassemble a camera for repair, I generally will put a thin smear of silicone grease on moving parts like the wind lever, the rewind shaft, etc., where there is metal-metal friction. |
Graham_austin
Tinkerer
Username: Graham_austin
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 09:53 am: |
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Thanks John.
Now I have cleaned every last trace of the old grease from the threads they move very smoothly. Again I found that ether worked well.
I'm rather pleased with the way this Agfa has gone. The general condition is excellent. I am just moisturising the bellows and I shall be able to try it out. Next project will be to clean my wheel set Telma shutter on my Ikonta. |
Sevo
Tinkerer
Username: Sevo
Post Number: 80
Registered: 09-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 11:25 am: |
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Loctite thread locker is highly inappropriate as a glue for a lens element - indeed there is a fair risk that it will not even work, as it only hardens anaerobically in a thin layer between metals.
But it is not that bad when used for its intended purpose - it is more safe and less out of place than modern nail varnish, the other common substitute for old thread locker preparations.
For restoration of old cameras to original state, collodion would be appropriate. But anaerobic thread lockers already took over by the fifties to sixties, so it is not out of place on any younger camera. For cameras from the thirties to sixties time frame, you might work around with matching period nail varnishes (dried up bottles can often be found on flea markets, and can be re-dissolved with acetone) - but current nail varnishes are positively out of place and time, unless explicitly made to a vintage recipe. |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 70
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 11:27 am: |
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Scott is right Graham, there are very few places you would ever use Loc-tite on a camera. Most of them are on the screw heads of more modern cameras in places that are not easily accessable, such as in the bottom of the camera on the gear train. Even then, you wouldn't apply it to the threads directly, but on the head of the screw after it has been tightend down to keep it from backing out. Never apply any type of glueing agent on the threads of a lens, unless you want to junk it the next time it needs repair.
PF |
Graham_austin
Tinkerer
Username: Graham_austin
Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 11:36 am: |
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Lesson learned. Also - the focus ring is so smooth now it will not need it. |
