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Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 184
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2011 - 12:12 pm: | 
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Anyone with ideas on why a FR1 would only release the shutter very intermittantly. Everything else seems to work. New battery fitted.
Also, anyone know if it's possible to remove the screen. I read that it was but no obvious way to release it that I can see.
And if anyone knows of a repair manual hereabouts I'd like to know.
TIA
Some additional information...
If I set it to 'B', the shutter always fires at the third attempt, and I mean ALWAYS the third attempt. Is that weird or what? |
Dirbel
Tinkerer
Username: Dirbel
Post Number: 47
Registered: 04-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 07, 2011 - 12:22 pm: |
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Check the switches, especially the one on the lower left side of the mirror box (looking from the front). This switch should have good contact to the camera body.
The repair manual fo the Contax RTS gives some hints, unfortunately I only have a printed version.
The screens are not interchangeable, but there are two small screws that look like they are holding the frame of the focussing screen.
Ciao,
Dirk |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 185
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 07, 2011 - 01:58 pm: |
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Thanks Dirk, I'll look out for the switch. I have an RTS manual so I'll check that out as well. I found reference elsewhere that the screen is held in by two screws so I'll give them a twirl and see what happens. |
Chiccolini
Tinkerer
Username: Chiccolini
Post Number: 122
Registered: 06-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 07, 2011 - 04:41 pm: |
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The FR-I uses the same shutter as the Contax RTS so that should be a good thing if you have an RTS manual. |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 186
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 09, 2011 - 09:03 am: |
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Just to confirm the two screws visible at the top of the mirror box, just inside the lens mount, do release the focus screen. |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 187
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 09, 2011 - 09:03 am: |
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Just to confirm the two screws visible at the top of the mirror box, just inside the lens mount, do release the focus screen. |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 196
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 04:28 am: |
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Finally fixed this problem. The problem was the capacitor that is used to drive the release magnet. It seems this was a common problem because in later cameras the cap was changed for a larger type.
Here's a picture of a later FR1 (serial number 717152). The cap is the big purple one.
The cap is a 220uF 6.3V electrolytic. It looks like this was factory fitted as the pads on the PCB where the original cap was fitted haven't been used.
The cap in the faulty camera (serial number 010969) was a 100uF 6.3V tantulum. I replace it with a 220uF 10V electolytic (which is the same cap used to repair Minoltas with faulty caps).
The original cap was fitted under the small PCB under the ISO dial. There wasn't enough space for the electrolytic so I brought it out to one side. It's the black cap in the next picture.
The new cap in the later camera is fixed in a different place but there's also some wiring differences and when I checked the signals at the original cap position with those at the new position, they were different so I opted to fit the replacement cap to the original pads and not to where the new cap is fitted in the later camera.
Now I just need to fix the frame counters in both cameras and we'll be out of here. |
