| Author |
Message |
    
Mteetank
Tinkerer
Username: Mteetank
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2011 - 11:24 am: | 
|
Just added to my collection an Ikoflex III and it will need some shutter work. Have been searching the internet but cannot find any disassembly information, repair manual, or operators manual. My goal is to photograph the disassembly process and post my progress. Would appreciate any advise as to how disassemble the front lens/shutter board and lens assembly.
Thanks much,
mteetank in Lakeville |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 19
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 18, 2011 - 03:46 pm: |
|
Any luck mteetank?
I've just purchase this model Ikoflex as well (waiting for the mail). From what the seller said is that the shutter isn't cocked when working the film advance crank.
Regards,
Rick |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 33
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 06, 2011 - 12:06 pm: |
|
The shutter can be accessed by removing the 6 small screws around the front side. It might need a little coercion. Underneath it you'll find the Compur-Rapid shutter with a lever screwed to the speed selector ring.
Make sure to mark the cogwheel and the bit on front of the shutter so you know where they mesh when reassembling (if you mess this up the window will show the wrong speeds).
I've just received mine and dicovered a little broken torque spring in the shutter, preventing the shutter from staying cocked.
The whole thing also needs a good clean.
Anyone got a good idea for a replacement torque spring? It only needs to be about 1/2 inch long. |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 34
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2011 - 10:55 am: |
|
A bit of googling brought up Music Wire and Guitar Strings as an optional materials.
Who knew those 8 years of guitar lessons would pay off. I cut a bit of excess from the E-string (which is .009 gauge I believe)on my Aria Pro II and fashioned about an inch of it into a usable spring. After about 45 minutes of trying I finally got it settled correctly and I reassembled the shutter. Slow speeds are still a little too slow (so some more cleaning planned). But at least it stays cocked now!
w00t, Go me!
Next problem: one of the aperture blades needs to be reseated. |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 35
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2011 - 11:14 am: |
|
Oh, this is what it looked like on my workbench yesterday:
http://www.flibweb.nl/flibweb/cpg143/albums/userpics/10001/ikoflex01.jpg |
Mndean
Tinkerer
Username: Mndean
Post Number: 270
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 08, 2011 - 06:36 am: |
|
Ah, you should mention it's 1st string E, rather than just E. Someone might get confused! |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 36
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 08, 2011 - 07:59 am: |
|
I never said that in those 8 years of lessons I ever learned anything 
But yes, it's the 1st string E.
Looks like I'm going to have to disassemble the whole thing again to get at the aperture blades. It will give me the opportunity to give it all a good clean though. That should fix the slow speeds.
Another problem appears to be the timing of the gears in the film advance / cocking mechanism. Turning the crank does not actually move the actuator arm far enough to fully cock the shutter. It could be something is bent out of shape.
Oxidation on the body has also caused some bits to lock up, like the film loaded/empty indicator.
Another one to add to the to-do list. |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 37
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 09, 2011 - 12:19 am: |
|
Well, Shutter is now cleaned and fixed. The loose aperture blade is back in position. I had to re-install the shutter blades after taking the compur-rapid shutter mechanism out of its housing though.
Used some citric acid-based detergent to remove the oxidation to free up the film indicator.
Now I need to figure out why the actuator arm does not move far enough to fully cock the shutter. It falls short by a millimeter or so.
The arm has a roller attached that follows a cam that rotates with the movement of the crank.
Could these parts be worn down? Doesn't look like they are. I guess I'll have to try bending the end of the arm a little bit.
Also need to figure out why the frame counter isn't working. |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 38
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 04:09 am: |
|
Over the weekend I managed to get it all working again. The camera is ready to go.
The only thing not working a 100% is the linkage that locks the shutter release lever until the film has been advance far enough for the first exposure. The 70-year-old extension spring isn't strong enough to move it any more. To that end a previous owner cut a slit in the side cover so the linkage can be moved with a sharp object. Nice going Bubba!
I can probably fix it by smoothing out the sliding surfaces, a dab of grease and a stronger spring.
http://www.flibweb.nl/flibweb/cpg143/albums/userpics/10001/ikoflex05.jpg |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 144
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 04:38 am: |
|
Nice work Rick ! Hope you'll manage to get that linkage going again.
btw Could you have a look at the focus helper here :
MF Focus Helper
and see if the slot it has would fit with any notch on your Ikoflex III ? |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 39
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 05:17 am: |
|
Sorry Hans, at first glans the notch on the Focus Helper does not appear to match the location of any cams/buttons/pins in the film compartment of the camera.
I don't think I have any 6x6 camera that does, except maybe the frame counter wheel of the Voigtlaender Brillant.
I'll just check them when I get home later today. |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 145
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 11:57 pm: |
|
Ok Rick, thanks for checking ! Much appreciated. |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 40
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 - 01:15 am: |
|
It looks like it would need to have a similar notch on the opposite side, as well as a longer notch lower down on both sides to match the sides of the film plane on the Ikoflex III, Hans.
It doesn't match my other 6x6 cameras either.
Rolleiflex Standard, Rolleicord Ia, KW Pilot-6 and Ciroflex D. |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 146
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 - 04:34 am: |
|
Ok Rick, thanks again !
I thought it might be for a pre-war Ikoflex as the focus helper has the inscription 853/16 on its other side.
I used it with success on a Super Ikonta IV and a Balda Super Baldax but don't think that it was intended for these, it just fits because there is nothing in the way disturbing it lying flat against the film guides. |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 41
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 - 07:07 am: |
|
I suspect it would fit the Ikoflex III as well. I doubt those tabs at the side of the film plane are deep enough to interfere with the lens-film distance.
Next time we'll meet I'll bring the camera with me ;) |
