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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 104
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a dissasembled HiMatic E that I can't figure out.
When I apply power, the battery check light works. I have checked the continuity of all wires and they are OK. The magnet works (I removed it and tested it separately). The capacitor seems OK, as I have switched it from another camera with the same result. There is no mechanical obstruction that would prevent the shutter from opening. All contacts have been cleaned and are contacting properly (as far as I can tell). The magnet does not hold the shutter open, leaving me to believe that it is not getting power when needed.
Can someone help me identify the components on the PSB? Specifically, what are the 3 black "dome" like components on the left? (they have 3 prongs)
What are the small red/brown oval components on the left (there are 4 of them)?
If I have an idea of what the electronics are supposed to do, I will have a better chance of troubleshooting.
Thanks in advance.


hi-matic e
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Monopix
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Username: Monopix

Post Number: 144
Registered: 11-2008

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Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 03:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Picture isn't clear enough to be sure but anything with three legs is likely to be a transistor and the other components look like capacitors.
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Monopix
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Username: Monopix

Post Number: 145
Registered: 11-2008

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Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 03:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Found this which, if you can make sense of the Google translation of the Japnese, might help.

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?u=http://www.geocities.co.jp/Technopolis /5392/matic/matice01.htm&sl=ja&tl=en&hl=&ie=UTF-8

Looks like the guy had a problem with a capacitor and it looks like that large black one labeled 3.3-M 16V in top left of your picture.
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 111
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Just to update.
I began systematically replacing components on the camera using items from a donor camera that died to to badly corroded wiring.
The shutter sprung to life after replacing one of the transistors.
So, I now I am happy to have 2 working cameras out of 3 junkers, but I will think twice before tackling an all electronic camera again!
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Juliard1
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Username: Juliard1

Post Number: 13
Registered: 04-2008

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Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 03:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Waynemel. Good news about you finding the fault. I am busy with the same problem. Is there a way to test the circuit board without putting it back in the camera ? This will save me a lot of time. My Hi_matic E is a black body version and I really would like to get it working. Kind Regards,
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 112
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yes.
Basically, I rigged up a battery with a couple of test leads and connected them to the positive and negative wires on the camera. I used a 3v battery, just to make the system a little easier to handle. Once you have the power connected you should be able to push the shutter release down (at the top right of the picture, cut off).
If everything is working properly, the shutter should open and close properly and the light bulb should light.
If you hold the lens up to various light sources, you should get different shutter speeds and aperture openings.
I would make sure the mechanical function of the camera is working properly first, ie the shutter is not physically impeded with dirt etc. If you hold your thumb at the bottom of the camera, near the magnet (bottom right of the photo, just at the end of the large brass bracket), you should be able to hold the mechanism closed just as the magnet would. Place your thumb on the bottom and press the shutter release...the shutter should open and stay open until you release your thumb.
If you are having electronic issues, check the state of the wiring first. Corrosion is a big problem here.
I hope this helps.
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Juliard1
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Username: Juliard1

Post Number: 14
Registered: 04-2008

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Posted on Saturday, July 31, 2010 - 04:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Waynemel, Many thanks for all that useful info. I have only now read your post as I have been busy with other cameras. You have really provided almost a 'workshop manual' here,I am very grateful. If you ever come to SA; pop in.
Best Regards, Derek
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Juliard1
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Username: Juliard1

Post Number: 15
Registered: 04-2008

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Posted on Friday, August 06, 2010 - 12:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello Again Waynemel, The Hi-Matic E is now working 100% thanks mostly to you. It prompted me to make up a power supply in common voltages fitted with leads with crocodile clips. I can now test virtually any board. Unfortunately the rear lens element was badly damaged by fungus - the worst I have ever seen in fact and I am a camera technician. I have ordered several Hi Matic E's as parts and await their arrival. You are 100% right about corrosion. Sometimes the corrosion wicks its way up the wire making re-soldering impossible. Thanks Again Derek
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Waynemel
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Username: Waynemel

Post Number: 126
Registered: 08-2009

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Posted on Friday, August 06, 2010 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Glad to hear you have been successful. My parts camera had a badly damaged rear element also. But on mine it was corroded just like the wiring. There were white crusty deposits etched into the glass. It's surprising how much damage can be done just by leaky batteries.
By the way, since I could not hold the shutter open to check focus, I ran film through both of the Hi-Matics. The focus on both was right on, and the Rokkor lens is nice and sharp.
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Juliard1
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Username: Juliard1

Post Number: 17
Registered: 04-2008

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Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Waynemel - Yes ... now that you mention it the rear element is exactly like that. White crusty deposits. It must be leaky batteries used in the past. I have now replaced the rear element and will run a film through it soon. Thanks again, Derek.

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