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Classic Camera Repair » Maintenance & Repair » Nicca Tower Type 3 maintainance / repair / shutter access / CLA « Previous Next »

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Dsides
Tinkerer
Username: Dsides

Post Number: 37
Registered: 04-2009

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Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2011 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I couldn't find a reference for how to take the housing off of a Tower Type 3 (Nicca Type 3), so I thought I'd post this for any future risk-takers. I thought it would be the same as a Leica IIIf or IIIc, but there is one hidden screw that is different.

Start by taking off the six screws around the top (3 front, 3 back), then the three on the face (2 left, 1 right). The hidden screw is under the slow-speed dial. To get to that, unscrew [by hand] the knurled knob (counter-clockwise) on the slow speed dial. This will reveal a screw head. Unscrew it and pull off the slow speed dial face [with all the numbers on it]. This will reveal a ring with three screws. Remove the screws and take off the brass ring. This will reveal “The Hidden Screw” - and allow you to remove the piece that it all attaches to.

Now the housing can be slid off of the rest of the camera (or the camera can be taken out of the housing – your choice). Make sure you don't snag the range-finder cam at the top of the lens mount on the way out.

When putting it all back together, put the shutter speed dial (on top) to the “20-1” mark. Put the innards back into the housing, slip the post that it all attaches to into the it's hole. Re-attach the hidden screw, and the brass ring that covers it. Pull out the post and twist it counter-clockwise until you feel the notch touch the slow speed escapement bar. Slowly turn it Clock-wise while cocking and firing the shutter until the shutter holds [at the “T” position]. Very carefully slide the face of the knob over the post – making sure the dial is at the “T” mark. The post has to fit into the square slot. I tried this at the “20” position for over a half hour before using the tension created by the “T” position to help me. Put in the screw, and re-attach the knurled knob. Put all the other screws back in whenever you feel like it.

I took off the lens mount in my attempt to find what was holding everything in place, but I don't think you have to.

If anyone out there has done this before and has some better suggestions please share them!
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Railcrew
Tinkerer
Username: Railcrew

Post Number: 64
Registered: 03-2012

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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2013 - 07:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

a better late than never thank you!
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Railcrew
Tinkerer
Username: Railcrew

Post Number: 65
Registered: 03-2012

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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2013 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Oh yea, mine has the PC sockets on the front, how do I deal with that?
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Hollenbj
Tinkerer
Username: Hollenbj

Post Number: 93
Registered: 03-2012

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Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2013 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sounds exactly like my Canon IIF. Maybe like the IIIa too, but I can't remember. That hidden screw is a pain to get to, and then you have to mess with slow speeds registration/adjustment/etc. when reassembling. Just one more reason why I like the IIIc and IIIf more -- easier to get into and fix.

Your instructions are just like my experience. Thanks for writing it all down and sharing! I've never even held a Tower(Nicca) Leica copy. Do you like it? Does it compare with a IIIa, IIIc?
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Railcrew
Tinkerer
Username: Railcrew

Post Number: 66
Registered: 03-2012

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Posted on Friday, January 18, 2013 - 12:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Got the PC socket dealt with. My slow speeds knob was easy to get back on, it's a bit newer, might be a different design. On a Tower 3S (1954) there is a screw under the lens mount bracket, so it does need to be removed

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