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Reiner Bergmann
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Username: Reiner

Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 07:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Recently I bought a Petri Color 35 in excellent condition but with a blocked wind lever. I took off the top cap and the bottom plate and compared it with a mechanically fine Petri Color 35.

It seems that the transport mechanism of the blocked one is in a "cocked" state. The light meter switch is closed and the light meter is working. However the shutter is not cocked. The internal shutter release can be pushed down but the shutter is not fired. Film transport and shutter are somehow unsynchronized. The camera needs some kind of resetting to a defined state.

Does somebody know how to proceed on this camera? I am familiar with camera tinkering but not very much with this type. I fear that the leatherette has to be pealed off to reach the shutter base plate but I would like to avoid it. Any ideas?
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Werner J. Becker
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Username: Wernerjb

Post Number: 17
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Reiner, as you most probably know the Petri Color 35 has a collapsible lens operated by a screw on the rear of the body. I once encountered a similar problem with one of my Color 35s because a previous owner had forcily tried making the camera release when the lens was half way and thus misbent the cocking mechanism.
I think stripping it down to the bones is inevitable if you want to pin down what is wrong (in my case there was another problem: the shutter blades were also hopelessly gummed up, so I was not aware of that other problem first) and I can assure you dismantling is not too difficult. It is the usual routine: taking off the top cap, peeling down the leatherette, removal of the sheet metal coverings, etc). There are three things you have to be careful about. (1)Leave the position of the meter as it is and do not touch the meter needle.
(2)The camera "frame" rails are made of cast metal that is prone to breaking if too much force is used.(3) When testing the shutter you can easily unhook springs on the right (as far as I remember).
BTW, what do you mean by "internal shutter release" ?
I found thje pictures in these links useful: http://homepage1.nifty.com/fukucame/daisaku/d12.htm
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~rd2h-ari/BUNKAI_KOGATA.htm
Poor translation is possible with Google's "language tools".
In the archives I read there was a "repair manual" available, but I have never searched for it. I hope this helps, W.
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Reiner Bergmann
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Username: Reiner

Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thank you , Werner. A misbent part is a propable explanation. With "internal shutter release" I mean the plated metal transfer bar which transmits the movement of the shutter release button deeper into the camera. The shutter release button itself is somehow blocked but the transmission bar is free to move. However it does not release the shutter any more as it should do.
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Reiner Bergmann
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Username: Reiner

Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, August 27, 2006 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The culprit was not a bent part it was the infamous sticky shutter syndrome. I just opened the lens from the front. It was quite easy. Just the little notched ring in the middle was to unsrew. I did it with my thumb nails only. Afterwards the whole shutter fascia came off. I did the same with my reference Color 35 and compared the functions of both. As already described the shutter of the jammed Color 35 was cocked. The movement of the shutter release bar was transmitted fine but it did not fire the shutter since it was completely frozen. Some drops of lighter fluid freed it up. Now the shutter is dry again and it still works.

Anyway, I also unscrewed the front lens which does not help a lot since the middle element stayed in place. Then I unscrewed the rear lens to clean the shutter blades and the lens surfaces. I do not want the shutter to freeze again after some days. But from now on everything should be straigth forward.

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